Seoul vs Cree for Lux lights?

I'm about to place an order for 6 Seoul U-bins from DX to replace a bunch of my old Luxeons. Is it true that Seouls usually work better in the Lux reflectored lights? Should I also order a couple of Crees? If yes on the Crees, which ones?

These are the lights I'm doing:
Element
Dorcy 3D
EOS
Brinkman 3 watt (3AA)
Dorcy Super 123
Propoly ( I already know I'm using a Seoul U-bin in this one)

Thanks, FishX

Replaced my old Lux III light with Seoul with no modification at all, tried with Cree the beam look like unfocus mini-mag.

Some members mention of placing some spacer but i dont have to do it on mine, direct replacement!

If you have been looking at photos of the Luxeon or SSC emitters you will find that they are almost mirror images of each other minus the fact that the SSC is much brighter. There have been several threads on this in the forums and they all state that the SSC and luxeon are more readily swappable than the Luxeon and a cree.

THe seoul has the same light pattern as a Luxeon. THe seoul is about .030 lower than a lux, and it has a positive ground base. If you are getting stars the positive ground won't matter. THe height difference can matter for a perfect focus...so with a bare Led I got a small brass washer...others have cut out copper pieces from a pipe- I think the sandwich shoppe sells proper spacers too. If you're using epoxy to glue in a bare led...usually you can put a bit on the base and the led to keep them apart so the positive bottom won't short out. Use a meter and make sure there is no contact between the positive Led lead ( negative has a split ) and ground.

If you get too much epoxy between the Led and base...the Led will quickly give a blue light- since the heat is not transferring away fast enough. THe led won't burn out with a bit of testing---but don't run it blue for a long time.

I've put seoul led's in a half dozen lights, and am very happy with the results. They are just a bit more sensitive than the cree to heat- and the positive ground base requires care.

Good luck!

Thanks Lighthouse! I'll order a couple bare Seouls just in case I can't get the stars to work. 7 bucks each is pretty cheap. Sounds like I should pass on the Crees for now. Gonna place my order tomorrow afternoon so if anyone else has some more advice for me, please let me know.

FishX65

rizky_p said:

Replaced my old Lux III light with Seoul with no modification at all, tried with Cree the beam look like unfocus mini-mag.

Some members mention of placing some spacer but i dont have to do it on mine, direct replacement!

Click to expand...

What did you slap the SSC into with no spacer?

Can you give me some sources of $7 Seouls? I've seen DX but not elsewhere.

O.K., I ordered 3 bare and 3 on stars. I will post my results after I mod these lights. Can I get the emitter off the stars if I need to use them bare?? I also ordered the MTE and the MTE 5 mode.

MTE 5 mode on reg battery is bright!!!!Almost as bright as Jeti On a 14500,but no heat issues!good deal for under 20 bucks.

fishx65 said:

I'm about to place an order for 6 Seoul U-bins from DX to replace a bunch of my old Luxeons. Is it true that Seouls usually work better in the Lux reflectored lights? Should I also order a couple of Crees? If yes on the Crees, which ones?

These are the lights I'm doing:
Element
Dorcy 3D
EOS
Brinkman 3 watt (3AA)
Dorcy Super 123
Propoly ( I already know I'm using a Seoul U-bin in this one)

Thanks, FishX

Click to expand...

DX does not know the Vforward on this product, sku 1445, at this time. The Vf spec sheet used is from SCC for the entire product line, so the spec sheet covers all the bins. DX did not realize that there were voltage bins for the P4, those are in 1/4 volt increments, and shipped the P4 with no informtion. I have had a flurry or emails with them trying to rectify the problem. Alex is trying to figure this out right at the moment but it could be a problem for you if you are trying to get to run these at max and you get a low bin instead. You will blow it. DX also published some stars were wired in reverse. If these are genuine P4 then an after market procdure put them on the stars, circumstances seem to point to that conclusion. The photo is of a factory star and marked Zled. You get unmarked stars.
I ran into it and CPF to the rescue:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=170864

Thanks Northern! I hope I get the right ones. Is this also a problem with the bare emitters? Is there any way to tell if the polarity is reversed on the stars?

fishx65 said:

Thanks Northern! I hope I get the right ones. Is this also a problem with the bare emitters? Is there any way to tell if the polarity is reversed on the stars?

Click to expand...

Yes, on polarity. Look at the picture fo the star on the page. Notice on the LED the little tab is notched and that side of the LED is attached to - (negative) If it is on the + side it is backwards, that is the indicator, the notch.