When replacing battery, open the head or tail?

Hey guys, just a random question but when you guys replace the battery on your flashlights such as the L1D or lights where the head and tail (switch) end comes off, which end do you take off to replace the battery?

I have only surefire heads and leaf bodies. Unfortunately removal of batteries on leef bodies only at the TC end. But on other lights I'd prefer the TC end rather than the head end. Personal preferences....

johnny13oi said:

Hey guys, just a random question but when you guys replace the battery on your flashlights such as the L1D or lights where the head and tail (switch) end comes off, which end do you take off to replace the battery?

Click to expand...

my rule of thumb in many things, including your question, is "Which is cheaper to replace" if something wears out from use.

use the same rule in "braking" a tranny is more expensive than "brake pads". so, if i'm not on the track, engine braking via the gearbox is minimized (unless i'm in the "sporty" mode of driving on some rural "twistys"). of course, safety is paramount, so engine braking via downshifting in safety situations is the choice, but NOT routinely for me.

i hope my automotive analogy conveys my meaning. sure, flashlights are less expensive than cars, but i'd rather spend my $$$ on new lights, than replacement parts or repairs.

not saying that the threaded surfaces will get ruined, but they do wear just a bit and O-rings are involved too.

i'd just like to keep the integrity of the light as sound as possible near the electronics in which one small drop of water may wreak more havoc than a single drop of water might do near the tailcap. not to say it's 'ok' for water ingress to occur near the tailcap, but just a matter of risk assessment for a small amount of wear.

i'll pick the tailcap. for me a no-brainer unless the cells will only fit through the head opening of the barrel and not the tail opening of the tube.

I always try to avoid putting excessive direct/twisting pressure on the led module hence I insert my cells through the tail-end whenever possible.

Even if say, for some reason, I want to remove the head, I will make sure to remove the tail-cap first, followed by the cell(s) and then only the head. To re-assemble, I will reverse the procedure - head onto empty body, insert cell(s) through tail-end and then tail-cap.

My edc's are an E2D and an E1L, so I can only get in the battery by removing the head, but if I could, I thing the tail is easier and quicker.

I'd recommend the tail. Consider the battery circuit in both cases.

With the tail removed, the head is in place offering a proper load if you accidentally complete the circuit while installing new batteries.

With the head removed, if the tail switch is on (full or momentary) and you accidentally complete the circuit, you have a short circuit of your batteries. Not good if they're lithium.

Yeah, it's a reach, but... things happen.

Also when you are changing the battery in incan's like SF M3-CB and E2d the bulb may fall out if you unscrew the head and tip it over, in the M3-CB it's not a problem but in the E series lights you need to unscrew the head to change the batteries :candle:

On the fenix bodies the retaing ring in the tailcap switch can unscrew itself after awhile which causes a flickering, a loose switch and lost water resistance.

I load through the head.

I prefer the tailcap too. Once I opened the head of my L2D-CE to change the batteries for some reason I have yet to discover, and ended up putting in the batteries backwards because I am so used to opening the tailcap...