NITECORE -- Keep Innovating        
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Surefire G3, Cree drop-in and 2 stage switch

  1. #1
    Flashaholic* Lunal_Tic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Wilds of Tokyo
    Posts
    2,876

    Crazy Surefire G3, Cree drop-in and 2 stage switch

    It was a PITA but I finally got it done. I had picked up a Cree drop-in from LiteMania and had a McGizmo two stage (30 ohm) for a Surefire classic switch and decided I'd try to put them together in a brand spanking new G3 I'd gotten recently. I had taken apart a fair number of Surefire tailcaps both classic and E series so I figured that I had enough experience getting these apart, I was off by a bit.

    Normally you can get all the parts out of the tailcap with a little elbow grease and a Zip-loc to boil the glue loose that holds the threaded plastic nut in place. Well this works fine for metal tailcaps but Nitrolon is a different animal. No amount of boiling, acetone, freezing, or anything else I could think of would loosen the part. After every new attempt and failure I'd set the whole mess aside and come back to it when I had time and patience again.

    Finally I realized that it was a job for Mr. Dremel and went after it with a metal bit that works like a router. The problem is that it is tough stuff so I would skitter off if I went to fast or pushed too hard. The other problem is that the threads are not tough stuff. So I gave up on saving the deepest ones and just ground with reckless abandon once I'd decided this project was going to get finished no matter what. After getting most of that plastic removed I switched to small course sanding band and lastly the green grinding wheel that is almost the same size diameter as the inside of the tailcap.

    Since the plastic was gone as were the threads at the back of the tailcap I needed something to keep the rubber boot in place I used a ~20mm washer pressure fit hold it. Because the hole in the washer was too big I had to put a small piece of rubber hose on the switch to keep it from going up into the boot too far. I used the Dremel and the green wheel to smooth the walls where the switch moves up and down and put the whole mess back together.

    It was not a pretty operation but it works well. The low is plenty for walking around outside and for most tasks and the high is great for the "reach out and touch" something when I need it. I had planned on doing the switch treatment for a G2Z but after the G3 I may just have to rethink it.




    I stuck a couple of yellow plastic elastic hair bands on the tail of the body just for grins.

    And there you have it. Any questions, fire away.
    -LT
    Last edited by Lunal_Tic; 05-02-2008 at 09:11 PM. Reason: added pic
    lunal tic (n)
    a distinctive behavioral trait or quirk directly related to or caused by light [15th cent. Latin lunaris. Ultimately from an IE word meaning “light,”] and [Early 19th cent. Italian ticchio.] see also: moon quirk

  2. #2
    Flashaholic jlomein's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    381

    Default Re: Surefire G3, Cree drop-in and 2 stage switch

    Thanks for discouraging me from attempting this mod for my G2 lol.

  3. #3
    Flashaholic* Lunal_Tic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Wilds of Tokyo
    Posts
    2,876

    Default Re: Surefire G3, Cree drop-in and 2 stage switch

    The G2 should be easy if it is the old non lock out type. The guts of that tailcap just drop out.

    Good luck.
    -LT
    lunal tic (n)
    a distinctive behavioral trait or quirk directly related to or caused by light [15th cent. Latin lunaris. Ultimately from an IE word meaning “light,”] and [Early 19th cent. Italian ticchio.] see also: moon quirk

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •