Vintage light... To mod or not to mod...

Rigor

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Jan 10, 2006
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Finland
Pictures:
http://www.sprkuopio.com/Auri/

Old light that was supplied for civil defence some time after WW II
Found in original box inside civil defence medic bag.
BTW... Those bags were unused and there are few more of these lights :)

Uses 4,5V battery to drive 3,8V 0,3A E10 bulb.

Ideas for modding?
4,5V battery -> 3P 18650 holder
Drilling bulb holder to take PR2-bulbs


Ok... This is the proof! We had high-tech in Finland before Nokia started making cellular phones :D
 

Long John

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Mar 16, 2006
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Spain, near Cadiz
My suggestion:

1xCree, could be very useful with this lens, and 3 x LIR18650 wired parallel, DD or with Flupic-board (or 3,7V-board of member "RV7")= will run forever;)

Best regards

____
Tom
 

lctorana

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Jun 28, 2007
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Melbourne, Australia
Mint and boxed!

You MUST leave it standard.

If you mod it, restrict your mods to totally reversible mods that can fit inside the 4.5v battery and/or the MES bulb.

Any alterations will diminish the value, and ruin it as a collectible.
Like painting Chippendale furniture.
Just because something can be done doesn't make it a good idea.

OK, so reversible mods.

How about 3x18500 in series, hidden inside a 4.5v battery shell, and a 6V, 15W MES-base halogen globe. You might need a NTC thermistor inside the battery to avoid a :poof:

That would get you into RoP territory behind that fisheye.
 

nein166

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New York
I'll second the Cree behind that aspheric huge throw capability

Rip the bulb out of a ?E10 bulb and stick a post in with adhesive put the cree emitter on top and wire it inline with a resistor to run DD. A reversible mod with killer throw possibilities in short bursts. It'll overheat quick though.
 

Icarus

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Belgium
I agree with Ictorana, better leave that piece of history alone. :whistle:
There are lots of cheap and better hosts available for modding. ;)
 

Rigor

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Maybe I will do some reversible mod...
1 Cree and battery modified to 3P 18650 holder :)
Okay... There are few of them in same storage room where I found this one and I am not going to mod them all... Just have to save another one on original condition :)

Why? Just to tease someone who has "the ultimate flashlight" Mag3D Incan...
Other reasons? Hard to find any.
 

Jumi

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lctorana

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...I have few similar, but not any in mint condition
I found link for price catalog in 1941
http://digi.lib.helsinki.fi/pienpai...l?conversationId=4&action=entryPage&id=342243
Great find!

I agree about the optics. Results after modding may be disappointing.

The fisheye (like a modern aspheric but the back of the lens is concave) is very close to the bulb in this design, so the best you could expect from a mod is a lot of very floody light.

But since you have more than one, it might be worth a try.
I still recommend confining the mod to within the battery, and using, say, a HME50 (E10 halogen 5W globe). I am sure you can hide 3x18500 cells and a 2.2ohm NTC thermistor inside a 704 battery shell. I intend to try exactly this myself!

And thanks for those catalogue links. They are brilliant!

Now to launch into a story, in case you're interested.

Mine is a cheap Japanese tinplate, similar to N:eek: 8 in the catalogue. Design is identical in every detail except the badge. Finish is bright nickel(?) chrome(?) (whatever tinplate is cheaply silvered with, you know what I mean).

But my mother's torch is also in the catalogue - it's N:eek: 28 in the first catalogue - page 15. The skinny fisheye is N:eek: 36 in this one, but N:eek: 28 in the other, so it's a bit confusing. But delighted to see this.

Our #28, as I will now call it, has been in the family for decades. You'll notice the head slides forward and back, so you can focus it.

In the mid 70s, 927 cells disappeared, and in the early 80s, No8 batteries followed suit. So these old BF cell torches got relegated to the drawer.

Then in the late 1990s came a few trips to the UK, and I would always bring home a bag full of batteries accumulated from my UK travels. Don't know if I would get away with that now! PP9s, No8s and 4.5v jobs.

Gave the old #28 a new lease on life as my mother's bedside torch, and kept it going with fresh zinc-carbons until about two years ago.

But No8s wer discontinued in the UK about 2001-ish.

My first attempt at a rechargeable fix was to get 2x 2/3A NiCads padded up radially and lengthwise. Frankly not a success, as 600mAh didn't give enough life on a charge.

750mAh NiMHs were a big improvement, but the breakthrough came with the discovery of protected 18650s with the extra length. These drop straight in without any mods except changing the bulb to a 3.8v 300mA MES, which gives at least triple the battery life on a charge, and a useful increase in brightness, but still modest enough for comfortable bedside use.
 

Gryloc

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Rigor,

I do not currently own an incan light, but I say that you should respect this flashlight's old look (retro?) and use an incan bulb. I like the idea of using three 18650's in parrallel and using a 5W bulb of some sort. Maybe you can run them in series (so you do not have to worry about balancing the Li-ions), and use a lower wattage ~11V bulb. Wasnt some higher voltage bulbs more efficient? I don't know (I know the wiring in the chassis becomes less lossy at higher voltages). This way you do not have to worry about trying to add enough heat sinking material to keep an LED cool. With this ~5W bulb, you can always get it frosted so you have a decent looking beam, but it is a high enough wattage that you can still see far enough away to make it usable. Use today's technology, but make this thing still look "original". That includes the use of a light bulb (which should be brighter and somewhat more efficient than what was used "back then"). Then you got your high tech batteries that will give you seemingly infinite hours of runtime for intermittent use. I am not well versed on current mid-wattage bulbs. I always thought that you can get some high lumen (<300?), small sized, bulbs that are under 10W or so (used in higher end incans from today). Am I wrong?

What if you add some circuitry to this (PWM) so you can get a few modes of brightness by pressing some switch somewhere (without much modding to the case much)? This adds to the utility of the light by giving you lower modes (replace your fenix for late night treks in the house ;)). This would add to the cool factor and it would simply be a "nifty" light. Can many drivers from the Sandwich Shoppe that are made for LEDs also work for incan (with incan being a resistive load)? They are current regulated. Imagine one with a SOS mode. Sure that mode is almost useless on the UIs of most compact LED flashlights now, but imagine this function on an incandescent light! That would be cool for once! Circuitry possibilities are endless.

Besides, there is a Cree in every other light now a-days (I say that in almost a bad way). This bulb could be lower wattage for long runtime (boring), something like a low ROP (excessive), or something right in-between that makes you say, "wow" when it is first turned on. I insist on a slight diffusing film just to make the light more enjoyable. Diffused bulbs in the time probably were not common, as was long runtime with decent brightness of course.

Or, what about squeezing in something like a MR-16 bulb (sealed bulb with integrated faceted reflector). You wont need to diffuse the bulb since a reflectored setup mated with a concave/aspheric lens should give you a more diffused beam, right? What if you scan the Surplus Shed for a replacement aspheric lens with same diameter and focal point? They have a new optics search function that may aid you.

Finally, if you do want to go the LED route, use a drop-in or something (replaceable). If the bulb is a screw base, then EverLED has a bulb that works (I think). Mounting the Cree to a star and getting an empty bulb base and stuffing it with aluminum foil might work. Just power it at like 200mA for lower heat levels. Your Star/tinfoil heatsink would work, as it worked for me decently even at higher currents going to the LED. With a Cree Q4or Q5, you should get plenty of decent light. If all else fails, you can use the SMJ-LED with a resistor. Talk about long battery life!!!

Well, what do you think? Its great you want to mod one of these, but give the old incan something different (with a little of the same -a bulb). It will add to its class in a way. I had a "old-fasioned" lookalike 2C light from Advanced Auto and I modded it with an old Luxeon warm white emitter/lens to make it look old, but it just plain sucked. The stock bulb was "cooler" and not as dorky as the lousy warm white LED. I wish I had an old light like this. Maybe I will have to visit ebay and see the selection. Hmmm... Well, good luck. :candle:

-Tony
 
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