Surefire dual stage

Has anybody noticed that the dual stage tailcap makes a horrible spring crunching noise when screwed in?

Also, I have to back my tailcap out about 3 complete turns from stop in order to put it into lockout mode. Is my flashlight still waterproof in lockout mode?

Not sure which tailcap you are referring to, but check for burrs or sharp edges on the end of the spring. File and shape the end of the spring so it doesn't bite into the cell. If the cell is chewed up, smooth it out a bit as well.

I don't think your light is "waterproof" regardless. But as long as the O-rings are completely covered you should have the same level of water resistance when the tailcap is locked out.

My L1 CREE does not make any noise when I turn the tailcap. And yes, lockout takes about three turns from constant on.

I agree with LED Z: with the o-rings covered the light is wheather proof regardless of the tailcap position.

The cap is on a Surefire L1 Cree. I thought Surefire claims 10m waterproofing on it?

EDIT: It is the stock dual stage on the L1

ganled said:

Has anybody noticed that the dual stage tailcap makes a horrible spring crunching noise when screwed in?

Click to expand...

it's most likely one of those fake Surefire tailcaps you can get these days - they're known for their reliability issues and are mostly incompatible with Surefire lights (it doesn't ensure waterproofneess). Once again we've got to be-careful and only buy from reputable dealers and distributors. :thumbsup:

ganled said:

Has anybody noticed that the dual stage tailcap makes a horrible spring crunching noise when screwed in?

Also, I have to back my tailcap out about 3 complete turns from stop in order to put it into lockout mode. Is my flashlight still waterproof in lockout mode?

Click to expand...

There really shouldn't be any noise when you rotate the 2-stage tailcap or depress the button for that matter. (Unless you are horribly overtightening the tailcap at the end of its travel.) You mentioned that it sounded like the spring, perhaps you could have a look at that and manipulate that?

As has already been suggested, have a look at the threads for debris (eg sand, metal pieces including burrs). Clean the threads out. Use a good quality silicon lube if you haven't already (eg. nyogel).

I am fairly sure that the flashlight will remain waterproof when locked out. (That has been my experience at least). If you operate the flashlight while underwater or while the threads are wet, some water could work its way past the o-rings to get inside though.

I know what Ganled is talking about. When I had the SF L1 and also the l2 I could also "feel/hear" the spring as it moved over the battery while turning the light on/off. It's somewhere between grinding and light popping feeling and upon inspection the base of the battery did have circular marks carved into it.
I still havnt gotten my L1 Cree back yet after 6 weeks

My L1 was smooth as butter, it was straight from surefire though...drfinately not a knockoff. As far as waterproofness, surefire claims their entire current line waterproof to 33ft, if you're just into the lockout mode (not like 6 turns out) it should be waterproof.

A note on SureFire & 'waterproofness'

SureFires are rated as "weatherproof".
Many SureFire are designed, manufactured and assembled to be capable of being tested and rated waterproof to 30 metres.
However, if SureFire considers a product to be waterproof it will be clearly identified as such (including a depth rating).

TailCaps and other threaded components should screwed on tight and should not be rotated underwater. Note that double o-rings improve the ability of a threaded component to be rotated underwater but it is still discouraged.

One of the most important factors regarding the effective ability of o-ring(s) to provide a water-tight seal is keeping the o-ring clean and correctly lubricated, undamaged and the surfaces it comes into contact with also clean. This is especially difficult if the o-ring is exposed by unscrewing threaded components, or even rotating them. As a result SureFire can not be responsible for the waterproofness of seals that have been exposed (for example a TailCap that has been removed to replace the batteries). It is for the user to ensure that sufficient care and attention is given to the ongoing ability of the seals to perform as required.

I suggest that any threaded component that is regularly rotated and o-ring seals exposed, and it carried in a pocket and/or subjected to a dusty (etc) life is not going to be as suitable for underwater use as a dedicated divelight.
To that end I would not expect my EDC - an L2 to be waterproof without cleaning and likely replacing the o-ring before taking it underwater constant-on. If my use or role required me and whatever I'm carrying to spend regular time underwater I would select a different flashlight as my EDC.

Al

ganled said:

Has anybody noticed that the dual stage tailcap makes a horrible spring crunching noise when screwed in?

Click to expand...

Yes, my L1 makes the same noise. My A2 is virtually silent though. I tried swapping tailcaps and it seems that there's still some noise on the L1 from either tailcap. I tried putting some lube on the L1, but there's still noise.

Phredd

I figure that when you use it enough it will wear in.

xiaowenzu said:

it's most likely one of those fake Surefire tailcaps you can get these days - they're known for their reliability issues and are mostly incompatible with Surefire lights (it doesn't ensure waterproofneess). Once again we've got to be-careful and only buy from reputable dealers and distributors. :thumbsup:

Click to expand...

I have never seen a "fake" tailcap for an L1/L2/A2. Why would anyone need an aftermarket one anyway? It's not like you can use it on E-series lights and on the rare occasion that one fails (I'm not talking about Z57's), SF replaces it free. So, again, why would anyone need a "fake" SF tailcap?

Yeah, what the heck is xiaowenzu talking about?