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Sold/Expired Novatac Extension Tube?

Supernam

Enlightened
Joined
Jul 20, 2006
Messages
753
Location
Irvine, CA
I heard that there was an extension tube or 2x123 body of some sort for the HDS. Is there such tube available for the Novatac? Can someone make it (LEEF!)?

Just think of the runtime gain from an 18650, or even a 17650.


EDIT: OPPS WRONG FORUM! SORRY!
 

cave dave

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 15, 2001
Messages
3,764
Location
VA
I'm amazed no modders have done this. They currently sell for $150 used on BST.

The only thing unique is the spring. I guess the lathe guys don't know any spring guys?

Talk to Data, he had custom wound springs made for the spy.
 

strideredc

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 13, 2006
Messages
474
Location
UK
cave dave is right, why has no one made a 2x cr123 tube for the HDS? someone could make a killing!:paypal:

sorry to run off thread, but they could make a novtac one aswell (not 2xcr123)
 

tebore

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
2,141
Location
Toronto, Ontario. CAN.
Someone just needs to remake the old HDS Tubes. They fit the old HDS and the new Novatac lights. Only thing is the Novatacs only take slightly more than 4.2v. The old HDS takes up to 7.3v. Springs can't be that hard. The switch is the hardest part to make, but you shouldn't need to.
 

Well-Lit

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jan 22, 2007
Messages
174
Location
North West Georgia
Someone just needs to remake the old HDS Tubes. They fit the old HDS and the new Novatac lights. Only thing is the Novatacs only take slightly more than 4.2v. The old HDS takes up to 7.3v. Springs can't be that hard. The switch is the hardest part to make, but you shouldn't need to.

Exactly, just remake the HDS tubes. But having said that, and as sure as the sun is coming up tomorrow morning, someone will eventually pop 2x123 batts into the tube instead of a 17670 and blow up their new Novatac!

Best Regards:
Bob
 

DM51

Flashaholic
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
13,338
Location
Borg cube #51
That may be why they haven't made them - they don't want a whole lot of returns because of this, as it probably wouldn't be possible to prove how the circuit had blown. It would cost them a lot of money to fix these problems, and it wouldn't be good for their image.

If they'd made the circuits good for 8.4v instead of just 4.5v, this would never have been a potential problem.
 

tebore

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
2,141
Location
Toronto, Ontario. CAN.
That may be why they haven't made them - they don't want a whole lot of returns because of this, as it probably wouldn't be possible to prove how the circuit had blown. It would cost them a lot of money to fix these problems, and it wouldn't be good for their image.

If they'd made the circuits good for 8.4v instead of just 4.5v, this would never have been a potential problem.

I wondered if they simplified the new circuit significantly. In the original HDS the circuit was good officially till 7.4v and could take up to like 11v in a limp home mode. I remember Henry saying you could pop 2 RCR123s in the 2xCR123 tube but it will only light up dimly and the light would not respond to clicks. I wonder if this safety feature was removed in the new UI. Henry thought of almost everything in the old HDS.

Another thing to think about tho. All the fenix tubes fit different fenix heads and people don't seem to mind Leef making them. Why are we so cautious?
 

tebore

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
May 10, 2006
Messages
2,141
Location
Toronto, Ontario. CAN.
I can think of Leef and Nekomane as people who have the experience in machining tubes.

The most important part of these tubes is the anodizing because it helps "control" the circuit.
 

speederino

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 17, 2006
Messages
278
Location
Ohio
Good point. The spring must be electrically isolated from the body so that 'clicks' can be transmitted independently of the LED current. Anodizing inside the body must be right.

Maybe an 18500 body would prevent an inadvertent over-4.2v situation? I'd still like to see an 18650 though!
 

waynejitsu

Enlightened
Joined
Sep 10, 2006
Messages
436
Good point. The spring must be electrically isolated from the body so that 'clicks' can be transmitted independently of the LED current. Anodizing inside the body must be right.

Maybe an 18500 body would prevent an inadvertent over-4.2v situation? I'd still like to see an 18650 though!


18500!!!!
Great idea:)

I already have a lot of 2x cr123 size lights and like the HDS/Novatac for it's small size,
A 18670 tube just does not grab my attention like a 18500 tube..., now that I would get multiples of:)
 

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