Anyone Have Both Liteflux LF3 and NovaTac 120P?

In my recent thread requesting recommendations for a single rechargeable 123 cell flashlight I've received many recommendations. I think I've boiled them down to 2 programmable lights. The Liteflux LF3 and the NovaTac 120P.

If anyone has both and could share their comparitive opinion that would be great or if anyone has an LF3 only and would like to share their experience that too would be helpful.

I'm interested in all aspects of the ownership experience, especially: Throw, run-time, quality, beam quality, feel, switch feel, etc.

I have warranty concerns with the Liteflux as it is a foreign made product and I don't know how long the warranty is or how long the turnaround might be for a warranty repair. I've searched the forum and there isn't a lot of info on the LF3 yet.

TIA
Robin

The Liteflux LF3 is a new design.

I had one briefly but decide to sell it since I was getting a Novatac 120P!

I like it, it's a nice light. To get an idea of what it's like, just read the review on the LF2! It's basically the same light but in a 1xCR123 form factor.

I found it a bit tough to use 1 handed as the o-ring was quite tight and the light is a bit short for that. That might improve with use or switching to a thinner o-ring, but I didn't bother trying.

Overall, I'd say it is a pretty cool light, as long as you are okay with 2 light modes. I find the user adjustable mode a bit cludgey at times, but it works.

I'm not a huge fan of the multi-twists needed for progamming and accessing most modes, but I EDC an LF2, and I usually only need the main 2 modes, so simply twist, or twist a it more.

It's a nice light with great features, I'm just not a super fan of all the twisting needed to access the extra features. The "press" method may or may not work. Mine had tight threads, so it did not. (Basically relise on thread slop to activate the switch. A "feature").


Also, quality is good, at least on par with Fenix. Still a little bit slippery tho.

The twisting, doesn't sound good. All the programming with the NovaTac is done with the button, right?

Yep,

People have been saying the Nova is easy to program and re-program. All 1 button. Have not tried so cannot comment yet.

I like the LF series, well built, super features, great programmability, good prices.

If you want to set it up once and go, it's great. If you want to tinker a lot or want easy access to more than 2 light modes, not so great. Too much twisting and no solid indicator that you are twisting right.

Still, I LOVE the features:

- overdischarge protection.
- easy access to the 2 main modes
- works on ANY cell (buck/boost)
- No dectable PWM (7.8 KHz!)
- Low low and high mode possible.
- Voltage report!

I just didn't like the programming. I'm currently testing an LF5 (AA version) and EDC an LF2 (AAA version) and like those ones. Mine have looser threads so I can use the "press" method (for the LF2, not so much on the LF5).

Accessing the user adjustable mode is not too bad. I like so set it up at 100%. So you have low (5 -10%) on P1, defaultish or a bit lower (say 35-50%) on P2 as your 2 main modes.

If you set User adjustable mode to 100%, it's pretty easy to get to that mode (2 twists).

It's good, but it depends on what you want. It's not tactical by any means...

gunga said:

Yep,

People have been saying the Nova is easy to program and re-program. All 1 button. Have not tried so cannot comment yet.

I like the LF series, well built, super features, great programmability, good prices.

If you want to set it up once and go, it's great. If you want to tinker a lot or want easy access to more than 2 light modes, not so great. Too much twisting and no solid indicator that you are twisting right.

Still, I LOVE the features:

- overdischarge protection.
- easy access to the 2 main modes
- works on ANY cell (buck/boost)
- No dectable PWM (7.8 KHz!)
- Low low and high mode possible.
- Voltage report!

I just didn't like the programming. I'm currently testing an LF5 (AA version) and EDC an LF2 (AAA version) and like those ones. Mine have looser threads so I can use the "press" method (for the LF2, not so much on the LF5).

Accessing the user adjustable mode is not too bad. I like so set it up at 100%. So you have low (5 -10%) on P1, defaultish or a bit lower (say 35-50%) on P2 as your 2 main modes.

If you set User adjustable mode to 100%, it's pretty easy to get to that mode (2 twists).

It's good, but it depends on what you want. It's not tactical by any means...

Click to expand...

I can't find any warranty info on the LF. Do you know what the warranty is? I guess for service it would need to go to China?

Also, do you happen to know if either light (NovaTac or LF) are offered with a smooth reflector?

Thanks again,
Robin

Don't know about Warranty. If you buy from Khoo, I think he is Malaysia or Singapore or something (can't remember).

Yeah, any repairs would have to be sent back to Asia (I just had to deal with some Jetbeam stuff, sent back to China, so no better there).

The LF3,4,5 all come with smooth reflectors only. The LF3 has the deepest of the 3 so more throw. Good transition from spot to spill (smooth) and seoul emmiters. Nice beam, and good tints.

I think Novatac is textured only. Maybe in the future they will offer a smooth replacement.

Something to be said for buying American. I would like the better throw of a smooth reflector but everyone seems to love the beam on the NovaTac.

gunga said:

Still, I LOVE the features:

- overdischarge protection.
- easy access to the 2 main modes
- works on ANY cell (buck/boost)
- No dectable PWM (7.8 KHz!)
- Low low and high mode possible.
- Voltage report!

Click to expand...

What is "PWM?" NovaTac 120P has all of these features and then some, no?

PWM is pulse width modulation. A method where the light is turned on and off rapidly to "dim" the light. The faster the frequency, the less noticeable.

LF3 uses a very high frequency, so it's not noticeable. Novatac uses a different method to dim, so not applicable.

You could buy a Fenix from Fenix store and get an Asian light with USA service.

The Asian lights provide very good value for money. Once you get a good one (can be a little hit and miss at times) you are happy.

Novatac has all those (except voltage reporting), yes, but I'm comparing with EVERYTHING except Novatac.

Tthe LF3 has most of the same features of the Novatac at 1/3 - 1/2 the price. Nothing comes close features wise. I'm not saying it's the best light for the price, but it has the best features.

You are comparing 2 different price classes. It's like deciding between say a Honda and a Mercedes. They can have the same features, similar performance and both are good cars. They are definitely different tho.

Just decide what you want to spend and how much you value the features build etc.

If you are willing to spend even more, wait a few months for the new HDS and Arcs to come out. They could be very good. Just depends on how much $ you want to spend.


Or just buy an LF3 for now and wait to see what comes from those 2 companies...

gunga said:

PWM is pulse width modulation. A method where the light is turned on and off rapidly to "dim" the light. The faster the frequency, the less noticeable.

LF3 uses a very high frequency, so it's not noticeable. Novatac uses a different method to dim, so not applicable.

You could buy a Fenix from Fenix store and get an Asian light with USA service.

The Asian lights provide very good value for money. Once you get a good one (can be a little hit and miss at times) you are happy.

Novatac has all those (except voltage reporting), yes, but I'm comparing with EVERYTHING except Novatac.

Tthe LF3 has most of the same features of the Novatac at 1/3 - 1/2 the price. Nothing comes close features wise. I'm not saying it's the best light for the price, but it has the best features.

You are comparing 2 different price classes. It's like deciding between say a Honda and a Mercedes. They can have the same features, similar performance and both are good cars. They are definitely different tho.

Just decide what you want to spend and how much you value the features build etc.

If you are willing to spend even more, wait a few months for the new HDS and Arcs to come out. They could be very good. Just depends on how much $ you want to spend.


Or just buy an LF3 for now and wait to see what comes from those 2 companies...

Click to expand...

Yes, I know it's an odd comparison. I started off getting ready to buy a Hyperion, then started looking at Fenix then .....

Trying to get a single cell, programmable with a good warranty that will run on rechargeables which rules out the Fenix line.

Thanks, any idea what price points the HDS and Arc will come in at?

I wish I knew! I'd like to know myself. None of the creators are spilling. I think the Arc will be much more costly ($100+?), the HDS, I'm not so sure. It's all speculation and hearsay at the moment.

I would probably skip the Hyperion and just get an LF3. Way better capabilities. The P2D is good to a point, but plays poorly with most rechargables (I sold mine because of this).

You could just get a Novatac and sell it if you decide on an HDS or Arc (my current plan).

Not sure I want to spend this much on lights.

You could get a P3D if you could handle 2 batteries (I happen to have one I might let go...).




Too many, yet too few choices at the same time!

Sorry, repeat post.

I think Gunga summed it up pretty good. They are two different lights. The LF-3 is a fantastic deal given all its capabilities (I just received a LF-3 and posted some comments below). The Novatac is a fantastic light as well (I do not have one but read a lot about it). The Novatac would probably be easier to use with the way it functions and with the clicky. The LF-3 would probably be easier to carry if you will be carrying the light in your pocket. If you like to constantly tinker with the different brightness settings - the Novatac would be a better choice. The LF-3 is not so easy to operate with one hand and setup of different brighntess levels takes a bit more to do but it can be done.

I think both lights are great at their respective price points and what they deliver - you just need to decide what things appeal to you best. Oh - and I would definately choose the LF-3 over the Hyperion - look at some of the reviews of the Hyperion. The Hyperion does not seem to be too efficient. And the switching and build design of the LF-3 is much more elegant.

gunga said:

I wish I knew! I'd like to know myself. None of the creators are spilling. I think the Arc will be much more costly ($100+?), the HDS, I'm not so sure. It's all speculation and hearsay at the moment.

I would probably skip the Hyperion and just get an LF3. Way better capabilities. The P2D is good to a point, but plays poorly with most rechargables (I sold mine because of this).

You could just get a Novatac and sell it if you decide on an HDS or Arc (my current plan).

Not sure I want to spend this much on lights.

You could get a P3D if you could handle 2 batteries (I happen to have one I might let go...).




Too many, yet too few choices at the same time!

Click to expand...

Your plan sounds good! I started this journey with my other thread asking for recommendations and thinking of spending $30 or so. Ha!

It's so easy to get the fever... The 120P is very seductive and the LF3 seems more practical pricewise. Decisions. :thinking:

I will do a pros and cons comparison now that you guys have provided me with some details.

Thanks again!
Robin

regulator said:

I think Gunga summed it up pretty good. They are two different lights. The LF-3 is a fantastic deal given all its capabilities (I just received a LF-3 and posted some comments below). The Novatac is a fantastic light as well (I do not have one but read a lot about it). The Novatac would probably be easier to use with the way it functions and with the clicky. The LF-3 would probably be easier to carry if you will be carrying the light in your pocket. If you like to constantly tinker with the different brightness settings - the Novatac would be a better choice. The LF-3 is not so easy to operate with one hand and setup of different brighntess levels takes a bit more to do but it can be done.

I think both lights are great at their respective price points and what they deliver - you just need to decide what things appeal to you best. Oh - and I would definately choose the LF-3 over the Hyperion - look at some of the reviews of the Hyperion. The Hyperion does not seem to be too efficient. And the switching and build design of the LF-3 is much more elegant.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Regulator, why do you feel the LF3 would be easier to carry in a pocket?

I will search out the reviews you referenced on the Hyperion.

Robin

If you only have to get one light, and pricing is not too big a deal, I would go for the 120P, all in one small package, with brilliant UI and superb beam quality. But on the other hand if pricing is a big deal, and you don't mind using two hands to operate the flashlight then the LF3 is a very good candidate.

I have the Novatac 120p and it is my EDC light at the moment, simply love it, such a brilliant light to use, when you first get used to the UI it is just so pleasant to use, only a few days and I did not need the manual anymore. It is though not the lightest or smallest of the 1xCR123A lights (little "fat").

I have a LF3 & LF5 on the way to me, could not decide between the two, so went for them both . Not a big fan of twisties, but the UI seems better then other twisties that I have had, and LOVE the Seoul SSC P4 LED, and wanted a backup EDC light with that LED (only have small Cree XR-E, not me favourite LED), so that made me order them, really looking forward to receiving them. And IMO is the choice is between reverse clickys and twisties, It do not matter than much to me because don't like either switch type, only "real" forward clickys can turn me on .

If you like 3.7v Li-Ion rechargeable batteries, then there is not many others on the marked today offering true rechargeable capacity, without overdriving/direct driving the LED, and that is really a BIG plus IMO (would personally not anymore consider buying a flashlight if it cannot be used with RCR123A 3.7v Li-Ion batteries).

Thanks for the reply WHC, I like the precision of the clickies myself. A twisty just doesn't feel precise enough. You have reaffirmed the quality of the 120P. It sounds like a great EDC.

For right now, I think I will try to do "one light" does all at least for my EDC, I know that will probably change after reading many threads here at CPF. It's a lot of fun!

I am tetsing out an LF5 at the moment. It is better in the hand because it is a bit longer and thinner.

My o-rings have been shredding very fast, luckily I had an extra Jtebeam C-LE (v1.0) o-ring. It fits a lot better and allow smoother 1 handed twisting.

I suppose just switching o-rings would allow these lights to work better 1 handed!

I'd like to chime in on the Novatac. I have one as well as an HDS and they are simply great lights. I have not used a LF3 but I have used other twisty UI's. I think the clicky is better suited to programming and overall ease of use. Cost is an issue but it is nice to have customer service support.

You could always follow the CPF standard and buy both. After playing with them, you can sell the one you liked least. The resale market is pretty good so you wouldn't lose much. A small price to pay to make an informed decision IMO.

Thanks, now there's a good idea. I may have to do that. The CPF standard has been a little intimidating, I think that means I'll have one or two of everything available, right?