Me and my L4... hanging out

Manzerick

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Dec 3, 2004
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I love to shoot with my L4 as it is awesome for close range shooting (ignore the full light lol). The McGizmo tailcap makes is wicked easy to shoot with.


If you are a shooter, what is your favorite torch to practice/shoot with?

:)
 
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SunStar

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Jul 9, 2006
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I love to shoot with my L4 as it is awesomem for close range shooting (ignore the full light lol). The McGizmo tailcap makes is wicked easy to shoot with.


If you are a shooter, what is your favorite torch to practice/shoot with?

:)

Well... my X200B makes shooting with a light pretty easy. I back it up with a SF C2 / LFHO9.

I have wondered how the L4 beam compares to that of the X200B. Too much flood and one can get "back scatter" from walls used for cover and end up blinding the user. However, one blink of the X200B (correctly) in a black room and one sees everything including shadows that exist in the room. I much prefer it over the X200A. I'm assuming the L4 would be very similar. I may have to add one to my collection:grin2: but wasn't sure if SF had plans to upgrade it for longer run time in the near future.
 

Patriot

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Manzerick, have you tried a weapon mounted handgun light yet? It's so superior to the Rogers technique that you'll never go back. It will substantially reduce the amount of muzzle flip, the component of recoil that has your gun pointing at 45 degrees upwards at the apex of it's travel. It makes follow-up shots much quicker when a correct grip isn't limited by trying to hold a light. You can essentially duplicate your L4 beam with a Surefire X200B. It's also better tactically because in certain situations you may need the dexterity of a free hand to accomplish a certain task under stress, like to open a door, shove a loved one to safety, get a seatbelt off...ect. If you get the chance you may ask a buddy to shoot his handgun with mounted light. I think you'll really like it.
 
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Supernam

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Here's a tip that will help out shooters without mounted lights. Try practicing strong arm only. This will teach you to control with only one arm. This is important because you have significantly less control when trying to hold a light with your off hand. This is evident as with the picture above. Some shooters have limp wrists when shooting, which can lead not only to a high muzzle flip, but can also lead to malfunctions. When using one hand to hold the gun and the other hand to both hold a light and offer some support, a limp wrist is exaggerated even more.
 

lightemup

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Jan 28, 2004
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Two weeks ago I would have had to say my L4 and/or g2z with P61.

Now I've got a p60L, and have a tan g2z on the way to host it! :) Can't beat the L4 though, i'm with you there :)

A tip for the guys with mounted lights: On mine i've got flip open beam covers so the lense doesn't get gunked up at the range. Bushwacker used to make them for Surefire, and I still have them. Bushwacker still make them, you just have to look at the specific size for the bezel diameter.
 

SunStar

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Two weeks ago I would have had to say my L4 and/or g2z with P61.

Now I've got a p60L, and have a tan g2z on the way to host it! :) Can't beat the L4 though, i'm with you there :)

A tip for the guys with mounted lights: On mine i've got flip open beam covers so the lense doesn't get gunked up at the range. Bushwacker used to make them for Surefire, and I still have them. Bushwacker still make them, you just have to look at the specific size for the bezel diameter.
Thanks for the tip on the beam cover. I need to make that happen.

I've been playing with the P60L too and am quite pleased. I am not a fan at all of the P60, however the P60L has great color temperature and output falls right in between my Kroma (high beam) and my U2 (high beam). So SF is consistent in quantifying output with their 80 lumen rating and with extended regulated runtime (over P60 / P61 / P90), I think the P60L would be great in the G2Z. I fully expect SF to release the "G2ZL". If not, I'll be configuring one on my own.
 

lightemup

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Sunstar, couldn't agree with you more. First thing I used to do was pull the p60 out and replace with a p61. With a bit more testing, I hope to 'bridge' the gap between the two with the p60L, with its long runtime a great advantage.

Just so I don't waste batteries, i've been using a set of sf123's that were near the end of their useful life in the p60 (dim etc). Threw them in with the p60L and whoa nice and bright again. I don't know how long that will last but I am happy with that :)
 

SunStar

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I have always felt that based on output, the P60 was much too "hungry" for what it produced. I much preferred the gains of the P61 or P90 and would gladly use the batteries for their respective gains over the P60.

The P60L however, has greater output than the P60 and I was playing last night comparing to the U2... the overall spill is slightly larger than the U2 field of beam (although slightly dimmer at its perimeter). I'm really liking the P60L;).

Thanks for the tip on the output with used batteries. I now like the P60L even more! I can definitely see this lamp in SF's weapon based platforms. It would make a great replacement for some of the P60 based lamps in the 600 series shotgun forends and M95X series among others. It will also make the G2 / 6P lights more robust for use on AR platforms, etc.

SF has a good thing here I think.
 

gromit

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Apr 21, 2004
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I'll try my Nova this weekend, as long as the shop and others don't care
 

Patriot

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I'm not 100% positive nutz, but I believe that the light you're seeing is a halogen light that is beeing bounced off of the ceiling. You can see the boomerange shape form the light box with straight lines of light spill and shadow from the corners. It's not uncommon for them to light indoor lanes like this because it protects the lights from lead splatter that sometimes occurs when steal "pepper popper" targets are used in matches. Splatter also occurs when the metal components of the target shuttle hardware is accidentally hit with a high shot.
 
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