L1D-CE maintenance?

Biggoggs

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My L1D has intermittent flickering in the normal modes, and sometimes the light doesn't come on. The head is also a bit stiff- I don't think it's ever been greased, so I'm hoping a bit of maintenance should get things running smoothly.
What method & materials should I use to clean the contacts and lube the o-rings with? I also read about some sort of `retainer ring' that's supposed to be a common problem with the Fenix lights, can someone enlighten me? Anything else I need to look after?
 

Curious_character

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You need to clean and lubricate all the points where electrical contact needs to be made. The function of the lubricant is to prevent oxidation of the material at points where contact currently isn't being made. It's squeezed out from the contact area by contact pressure, so you don't need to -- and shouldn't -- use "conductive" grease with the mistaken idea that it would help the conductivity.

Take the top off the light and look down the barrel. Right where the diameter narrows you'll see a narrow shelf, which should be shiny aluminum. That makes contact with the outer conductor ring of the PC board in the head when the head is twisted down. Clean the shelf very well - alcohol makes a good solvent, followed by a wipe with a clean rag. Clean the outer conductor ring of the PC board in the head in the same way, and also clean the center conductor pad. Then put a light coating of lubricant on those three places. Good materials to use are Nyogel 779ZC or 760G, or ProGold. WD-40 will also clean and lubricate the contacts just fine, but might not last as long. I wouldn't spray it -- just spray a little on a rag and wipe. A little lubricant on the spring at the bottom of the barrel is a good idea, too. You can use a cotton swab to apply it.

The threads aren't in the conduction path in this light, but lubrication will keep them smooth and easy to turn. You also need to lubricate the O-ring for the same reason and also to make it last longer. Nye recommends Nyogel 779ZC for this, and it works ok, but I've started using 760G because it's less viscous and makes twisting a little easier. You shouldn't use any old lubricant on O-rings since some kinds will make them swell up or otherwise damage them. I'm sure some of the other good CPFers can recommend some other good lubricants for this application.

I think if I had to keep just one non-headlamp light (and I've accumulated quite a lot), it would be my L1D CE.

c_c
 

Biggoggs

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Thanks for the reply Curious_character,

Are there any alternatives to this `Nyogel'? I reside in Australia, haven't been able to find anything by that name. How much difference is there between WD-40 or other oil/grease and this specialist `Nyogel'?

Anyone know what these `retainer rings' in the tailcap are?
 

SenderGreen

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Thanks for the reply Curious_character,

Are there any alternatives to this `Nyogel'? I reside in Australia, haven't been able to find anything by that name. How much difference is there between WD-40 or other oil/grease and this specialist `Nyogel'?

Anyone know what these `retainer rings' in the tailcap are?

WD-40 is not actually a lubricant, but a corrosion inhibitor. (the WD stands for "Water Displacement"). It lubricates, but not for long. I think the first reply eludes to this. Also it is petroleum based, you don't want to use anything petroleum based on rubber. Petroleum based greases and lubricants destroy rubber.
You want to find a silicone based lubricant. A PTFE (non brand name Teflon) lubricant should be fine also. A quick note on Silicone spray lubricants that claim to be rubber safe: I have been warned to test all "rubber safe" silicone sprays before actual use by spraying them in a styrofoam cup first. If the cup melts, then the carrier agent mixed with the silicone will destroy the rubber.
As far as where to find in Australia (I wonder if you're in Perth?), any auto parts store should have Silicone dielectric grease. That should work fairly well I'd imagine. Silicone dielectric is a fairly light grease.
If you want a heavier Silicone grease there is one called Shin-Etsu (brand name) manufactured in Japan. I have been told this is one of the best Silicone greases available. It is kind of expensive, $15.00- $20.00 usd for a slightly larger than toothpaste size tube. It is white and much heavier than Silicone dielectric, and a little heavier than Nyogel. It is available, or can be ordered if not in stock at any Honda dealership. (they use it on the rubber seals of S2000 convertible tops)
I have seen Nyogel for sale on the internet also. I think a link I followed from another thread on this forum. I'm sure you could search here or google and turn up some results if you don't mind ordering off the internet.
Actually you could order any of those greases off the internet, I have seen all three. Good Luck.

This place has Nyogel: http://www.lighthound.com/ (use their search)
This place has Shin-Etsu for $12.00 http://www.handa-accessories.com/ (in the Honda section under S2000 any Model Year)
A picture: http://www.handa-accessories.com/shin.jpg

Surefire was using Nyogel. I don't know if that has changed.

The ring in the tailcap of your Fenix is most likely holding it's switch in place, unless I misunderstand the question.
 
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Biggoggs

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Thanks SenderGreen, I'll try to find some silicon (dielectric?) grease, and if it's not thick enough I'll try either Nyogel or the `Shin-Etsu' stuff you mention. Out of curiosity, would I use the same stuff with my Arc?
And no, other side of Aus, Tasmania :)
 

SenderGreen

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williamv0123

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I have an L1D-CE and love it. If you have access to Super-Lube, this seems to be an really good "latex friendly" PTFE based grease.
I use it on all my lights and have been happy with the performance.
Most hardware stores in my area carry it. Not sure 'bout Australia though.
 

Curious_character

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WD-40 is not actually a lubricant, but a corrosion inhibitor. (the WD stands for "Water Displacement"). It lubricates, but not for long. I think the first reply eludes to this. Also it is petroleum based, you don't want to use anything petroleum based on rubber. Petroleum based greases and lubricants destroy rubber. . .
All true. But I was a bit casual in my use of "lubricant". On electrical contacts, you need to prevent exposure of the unmated surfaces to oxygen and other gases which cause oxidation and other corrosion. So what you really need is a corrosion inhibitor rather than a lubricant. But an actual lubricant is necessary for the threads and O-rings. Most lubricants provide both functions, so I carelessly lumped them together. Although I've used WD-40 on electrical contacts -- from "dry circuit" (low voltage and very low current) to power applications, relays, switches, potentiometers, and connectors -- for many years with excellent results, I very seldom recommend it because it nearly always draws a string of derisive comments. (I think it's akin to recommending zip cord for speaker wire.) In this case, it looked like a good alternative for the OP. Except, that is, for the O-rings. He's getting some other good recommendations, though.

By the way, you can find silicone (not silicon) grease wherever plumbing supplies are sold. It's pretty thick, though, so wouldn't be the best to use on a twistie like the P1D CE because it would make it pretty stiff to turn. But it's fine for battery end caps and the like, which aren't turned as often.

c_c
 

gadgetnerd

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My L1D has intermittent flickering in the normal modes, and sometimes the light doesn't come on. The head is also a bit stiff- I don't think it's ever been greased, so I'm hoping a bit of maintenance should get things running smoothly.
What method & materials should I use to clean the contacts and lube the o-rings with? I also read about some sort of `retainer ring' that's supposed to be a common problem with the Fenix lights, can someone enlighten me? Anything else I need to look after?


Gday Biggoggs

I use my L1D-CE as a pushbike light rain hail or shine so do reasonably regular maintenance on it. There are a few threads pertaining to this but basically one approved method, which I use, is to periodically unscrew the head and tailcap, clean off the threads with a lint free tissue or rag wet with isopropanol, and then apply a thin coating of silicone vacuum grease. By thin I mean thin, if you put lots on it actually makes it harder to screw in/out.

The other thing I always do is clean off the battery contact point in the head with a cottonbud dipped in isopropanol.

And lastly for good measure, I check that the retaining ring in the switch is firmly screwed in, as a loose switch assembly can cause flickering.

Hope this helps you.
 

kurni

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TorchWorld in Melbourne sells tiny packets of SuperLube (PTFE). Usually the tiny packet is more than enough but I clean my collection regularly so approximately a couple of months ago I bought 85gr tube from TorchWorld. It was a special order; so far the customer service has been excellent.
 

SenderGreen

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All true. But I was a bit casual in my use of "lubricant". On electrical contacts, you need to prevent exposure of the unmated surfaces to oxygen and other gases which cause oxidation and other corrosion. So what you really need is a corrosion inhibitor rather than a lubricant. But an actual lubricant is necessary for the threads and O-rings. Most lubricants provide both functions, so I carelessly lumped them together. Although I've used WD-40 on electrical contacts -- from "dry circuit" (low voltage and very low current) to power applications, relays, switches, potentiometers, and connectors -- for many years with excellent results, I very seldom recommend it because it nearly always draws a string of derisive comments. (I think it's akin to recommending zip cord for speaker wire.) In this case, it looked like a good alternative for the OP. Except, that is, for the O-rings. He's getting some other good recommendations, though.

By the way, you can find silicone (not silicon) grease wherever plumbing supplies are sold. It's pretty thick, though, so wouldn't be the best to use on a twistie like the P1D CE because it would make it pretty stiff to turn. But it's fine for battery end caps and the like, which aren't turned as often.

c_c
I hope I didn't come off like I was disagreeing or trying to correct you. This was not my intention at all. I agree with everything you stated. Sometimes I try to post info and end up sounding argumentative, I don't mean to. I apologize. (First official day, I've been lurking)
I really appreciate the reply, makes me feel as if I have added something. Thanks.:)
Silicone dieletric is also an excellent corrosion inhibitor by design. It will deny the presence of any Oxygen on unmated contacts. It would also act as a Silicone based lubricant on threads. However it will not effectively clean contacts.
For anyone still looking for rubber safe greases: I have seen PTFE branded under the name Syncolon as well as Teflon. Radio Shack used to have one simply called LubeGel (PTFE Syncolon).
 

Curious_character

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I hope I didn't come off like I was disagreeing or trying to correct you. This was not my intention at all. I agree with everything you stated. Sometimes I try to post info and end up sounding argumentative, I don't mean to. I apologize. (First official day, I've been lurking)
I really appreciate the reply, makes me feel as if I have added something. Thanks.:)
Silicone dieletric is also an excellent corrosion inhibitor by design. It will deny the presence of any Oxygen on unmated contacts. It would also act as a Silicone based lubricant on threads. However it will not effectively clean contacts.
For anyone still looking for rubber safe greases: I have seen PTFE branded under the name Syncolon as well as Teflon. Radio Shack used to have one simply called LubeGel (PTFE Syncolon).
No need at all to apologize -- you have indeed made a very helpful contribution to the discussion. But I do hope that people will correct me when I'm wrong or when their opinions differ from mine. I don't want wrong information to sit there to mislead people, and I learn from the corrections and other points of view, too.

Welcome to CPF! I look forward to many more of your helpful and informative postings.

c_c
 

SenderGreen

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No need at all to apologize -- you have indeed made a very helpful contribution to the discussion. But I do hope that people will correct me when I'm wrong or when their opinions differ from mine. I don't want wrong information to sit there to mislead people, and I learn from the corrections and other points of view, too.

Welcome to CPF! I look forward to many more of your helpful and informative postings.

c_c
That's very gracious of you, and I thank you again for it! :)
 

crislight01

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how long have you been using your L1D CE until this required maintenance?
tell us if it work out
 

Biggoggs

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how long have you been using your L1D CE until this required maintenance?
tell us if it work out
I bought an L1D body for my L2D-CE about two weeks ago, tailcap was pre-greased but the head wasn't.

I picked up some generic AU$6 spray-can of silicone from an auto supplies store- staff were unaware of anything in tubes, so I figured it'd work the same. After testing it in a styrofoam cup I realized it was a good way to apply, so after spraying it into the cup I used a finger to apply it to the threads and o-rings to my 3D Mag, Arc-P, and L1D-CE.

The Mag is a little smoother, and the L1D has improved with little effort. It grinds a little, but no longer flickers, and I can turn the head quite easily, so I'm quite content with my work.
The Arc however went from smooth but firm, to a flashlight that feels like it's greased with sand. There was black crap between the threads (I don't think it should be there), so I cleaned it off with metho first, before using the same amount of silicone as the other lights. I'm going to try and find some thicker silicone, although the arcflashlight.com site said any petroleum/non-petroleum grease will work.


Back to the L1D though, how does one disassemble the tailcap switch? Sounds like I need to check that too...

Thanks for the replies so far guys, you've been very helpful :)
 

Nake

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BUMP


How do you disassemble/examine/replace the L1D tailcap?

There's a screw in washer/retainer with two dimples when you look into the inside of the cap. Tweezers, small needle nose pliers, or something similar can be used to screw it out.
 
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Biggoggs

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Excellent, thanks Nake, I thought those holes were manufacturing artifacts. Scratched it a bit when I tried to get it back on, not much to the tailcap though, is there :)
 
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