Is Fenix RB really warm?

I was really excited with RB series but from the reviews I don't really see it warmer than CE series. TorchWorld listed that the RB series uses LXML-PWC1 (cool white 6500K) led rather than LXML-PWN1 (natural white 4100K) one. I have been holding off RB purchase because of this.

What do RB owers think; is RB series warmer than CE series? Would Fenix release the warm version?

The warm white leds are not as efficient as the cool white. In your example, the warm white is only 72 lm/W typical, while the cool white is 90 lm/W typical. So you would have to sacrifice light output, or runtime for the warmer tint. Personally I prefer more lumens.:devil:

My new P3D Reb is very warm. Warmer color than all of my other LEDs.

kurni said:

What do RB owers think; is RB series warmer than CE series? Would Fenix release the warm version?

Click to expand...

Just my 2 cents worth:
I have a L2D CE and just received a P2D Rebel 100 from Fenix-Store. The Rebel 100 is much warmer than the Cree. In comparision, the Cree looks green while the Rebel looks more natural (neutral). The Rebel seems to have a better depth of field as well - that might be due to the difference in Lumens but the light from the Cree just seems flat compaired to the Rebel.

At the moment I wouldn't buy another Fenix CE version. The Rebel version is a lot nicer light.

Yes, it's warm and a bit yellowish. For neutral whites, nothing bests the Seoul.

I've got both Cree and Rebel models of Fenix lights.

I don't notice much of a tint difference between the two.

Both are very white, not green, or yellow.

I've compared both side by side on a white wall, and there is hardly any noticeable difference in tints. The Rebel does seem to have just a slightly better depth perception.

I've read where folks get "green" tinted Crees, I just haven't seen it.

Perhaps the "tint lottery" is still at play. :thinking:

And I do agree with a previous poster - the SSC power LEDs I have are consistently a very neutral white (SWO and SXO bins, haven't tried the SVO bin yet).

onthebeam said:

Yes, it's warm and a bit yellowish. For neutral whites, nothing bests the Seoul.

Click to expand...

My U bin seoul is very white. Compared to the rebel it looks cool white as my rebel has a slight "rose" tint to it in comparison. Hard to say how much of all that is the paint on the wall

I've got 4 Fenixs with Rebel emitters, and will say that overall, they're warmer than Crees.

I've seen some slight variations between them, which seem to be more apparent at lower power - my L0DR80 is the coolest Rebel I've got - but for the most part yes they're pretty warm.

As has been mentioned regarding "depth of field", they seem to put out a very nice spectrum (as far as led's go) and color rendition is better than any other type of LED I've got.

They are if you leave them on too long.

They have a warmer tint then all the Cree's I have, but are still pretty white compared to Incans.

I don't have a cree to compare, but my L2D Rebel 100 light just about matches my Fenix L1P light. But my L1P has a Luxeon with a really nice white light. My L1T has a Luxeon with a green tint. Oh, and I am very experienced in setting white balance in pictures so I tend to notice a over all green, blue, or red (warm) tint. The rebel is not warm, it is just white. Although I didn't actually measure it, just a comparison to a white wall.

As mentioned above I think the warm tints are lower output and in some levels harder to find. Also even in a white (non-warm) tint range we get some variance.

I have just got a P3D Premium 100 today and it is VERY warm compared to my L2D CE, it is almost incan-style warm. Not that it bothers me, my retina's are still trying to recover from staring at it while in Turbo mode!

My P2D Reb 100 is warmer than my P2D-CeQ2, but not too warm. I prefer a slighty warm tint....

I agree, I just recieved a LOD-RB80 and the rebel really shows how colored my crees are.

Thanks for the replies everybody, I was convinced to get P2D-100. It is slightly warmer, although nowhere near incandescent.

Left to right: P2D-100, L1D-CE, Fenix E1.

Low F1/13 A2.8


Low F1/40 A2.8


Low F1/200 A2.8


High F1/13 A2.8


High F1/40 A2.8


High F1/200 A2.8


The warmer tint is more noticable on brownish background. L1D-CE, P2D-100, and note the incandescent at the bottom-right corner.

kurni, the P2D 100 looks greenish to me, not warm which should be slightly yellow or red tinted. Could it be the camera white balance that is throwing it off? Can you set the white balance to "flash"? Does the light looks slightly yellow to you?

My P2D RB100 has the slightest pinkish hue. It's virtually undetectable unless compared to a "cooler" beam. It just looks fantastic.

Warmy goodness is a good thing, IMHO.

My P3D RB100's beam is a beautiful golden color unlike any other LED I own.

I`ve had Orb Raw 120, P2D CE q2 , P2d Q5. I noticed that I like the P3D Rebel 100 tint from the rest. It`s whiter not bluish...

onthebeam said:

Yes, it's warm and a bit yellowish. For neutral whites, nothing bests the Seoul.

Click to expand...

I have to agree.

I have an L2DCE, a P2DR100, and a few lights from DX, as well as a TerraLux MAG dropin, which uses the SSCP4... and the Mag has the best tint of all of them BY FAR... with the P2DR100 being in the far second place. In my experience, the SSC is just white, with little to no other hues, and the rebels are yellowish or reddish, while the Crees are greenish or bluish.

PocketBeam said:

kurni, the P2D 100 looks greenish to me, not warm which should be slightly yellow or red tinted. Could it be the camera white balance that is throwing it off? Can you set the white balance to "flash"? Does the light looks slightly yellow to you?

Click to expand...

Now that you said it, I do notice the photos are slightly greenish. I checked my camera white balance apparently it was set to "cloud" :sick2: I cannot retake the pictures at the moment because I don't have my L1D. I will have it back perhaps next week and I will retake the photos.

I do agree with what people say about the tint, my P2D-100 has less blue than L1D, which suggests that P2D-100 has more red and green towards the warmer tint.

The depth of field is definitely nowhere near my M@g 6D, but my P2D-100 might be slightly better than my L1D.