Fenix L1T & P2D Lego Question

I have a P2D. I want a Fenix 1x123 light with a forward clicky.

I have tried to search to find a positive answer but I could not find anything definitive. Thanks for you help. I was hoping to some lego work to and get two functional lights when done.

Here is what I think I read I could do:

Get the L1T v2 with the new forward clicky and use the forward clicky within the P2D tailcap, use the P2D body (123) and use the L1T head?

If so, will the remaining parts work together as well? P2D head, L1T body, L1T tailcap with reverse clicky?

I also read that the forward clicky L-series tailcap does work on the P series but it gets a bit tricky with the levels. I don't want it if it is unrealiable and hard to use the momentary vs. switching levels.

The forward clickie and cover will work in the P's tailcap the L head will fit the P body.

The forward clickie can be tricky with the levels of the DCE's but does not take long to get used too.

This is what I'm after also... L1T v2 head with P2D body/tail and swapped out for a forward clicky. Physically should fit however I'm not sure if using RCR123s will damage the L1T v2's head or not. The L1T v2 and L2T v2 shares the same head so I thought the max voltage is 3v. From Lighthound it listed 4.2v max. I emailed David at Fenix Store to see if this combo is safe with RCR123s but haven't received a reply yet.

ideefixe said:

This is what I'm after also... L1T v2 head with P2D body/tail and swapped out for a forward clicky. Physically should fit however I'm not sure if using RCR123s will damage the L1T v2's head or not. The L1T v2 and L2T v2 shares the same head so I thought the max voltage is 3v. From Lighthound it listed 4.2v max. I emailed David at Fenix Store to see if this combo is safe with RCR123s but haven't received a reply yet.

Click to expand...

I've been doing this for a couple weeks now. L1T/L2T V2 head, P2D body/tail cap with forward clicky switch and AW 3.7v RCR123A's. Nice and bright

Great! Thanks for the confirmation. Have you also tried 14500s with the L1 T v2 head?

I did this and it worked great. I have a 1x123 light with forward clickie and sold a very nice 1xAA P2D light.

Another question:

Can I do the same thing with my P3D and a L2T V2? I'd like a 2x123 light with the forward clickie witht the L2T levels.

So, will the L2T head fit and work on my P3D body?

ideefixe said:

Great! Thanks for the confirmation. Have you also tried 14500s with the L1 T v2 head?

Click to expand...

I've been running AW 14500 in a L1T V2.0 RB80. I had some trouble since my protected AW 14500 cells where a bit too long in the L1T V2.0 body. I had to modify the tailcap somewhat in order to get two stages with it. I took the thin washer from inside the reverse clickie that came with the L1T, bent it somewhat to a slight conical shape, in order to get to act as a spring, and dropped it into the forward clickie tailcap. This allowed the L1T V2.0 RB80 to get both modes with those longer 14500 cells. To avoid loosing the washer while changing battery, I just remove the head instead of the tailcap.

Be aware that the low mode is about 60% of high, so it isn't really low.

dbhn said:

Can I do the same thing with my P3D and a L2T V2? I'd like a 2x123 light with the forward clickie witht the L2T levels.

Click to expand...

I've seen ratings of 1.5 to 4 Volts for the L1T/L2T head (both models use the same head), so I wouldn't expect it to survive when attahced to a 6V (or 8.4V with rechargeables) body.

dbhn said:

I did this and it worked great. I have a 1x123 light with forward clickie and sold a very nice 1xAA P2D light.

Another question:

Can I do the same thing with my P3D and a L2T V2? I'd like a 2x123 light with the forward clickie witht the L2T levels.

So, will the L2T head fit and work on my P3D body?

Click to expand...

No, the L2T head will not work on the P3D body. It will fit but the LED will burn out.

Gunner12 said:

No, the L2T head will not work on the P3D body. It will fit but the LED will burn out.

Click to expand...

Thank you!