Fenix...Turbo mode?

Before I purchase my next Fenix unit, has any one ever run one in the so-called Turbo mode? And if so, how long did it last? I've got a bad feeling about this winter.

chiphead

Which Fenix model were you thinking about getting? I believe there are runtime charts tucked away into the reviews forum.

Here are a few created by Chevrofreak:

Fenix L2D CE and L1D CE runtime graphs

Fenix P3D runtimes

Fenix P2D runtimes

I've been very satisfied running My L2D CE strictly on turbo. I think the one weakness is my use of Energizer NiMH batteries...they are self-discharging faster than I can make substantial use of them. Eneloops in my sights.

I have a P2D, and rarely ever feel the need for turbo mode. If you're saying you're worried about the winter in terms of power outages and things like that, the low mode is plenty of light for indoors, and outdoors with no moon and no ambient light, medium will fee like plenty. But turbo is always there when ya need it.

I run my P3DR100 in Turbo mode all the time, on rechargeable 123's.

I have no idea what the runtime is on the thing, because I don't use it for more than a minute or two at a time... but I do use it on a daily basis.

what is turbo mode? I've played with an l2d of my brothers and it comes on full-brightness when you turn it on and then I think you click for strobe or sos and then turn the head for the lower output modes.

is there a higher mode called turbo he doesnt know about?

chiphead said:

Before I purchase my next Fenix unit, has any one ever run one in the so-called Turbo mode? And if so, how long did it last? I've got a bad feeling about this winter.

chiphead

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I just purchased a P1D-CE Q5. The instructions are very explicit: Turbo Mode should be used very sparingly to avoid overheating (and permanent damage) to the flashlight.

I wouldn't try doing a run time test in Turbo.

robo21 said:

I just purchased a P1D-CE Q5. The instructions are very explicit: Turbo Mode should be used very sparingly to avoid overheating (and permanent damage) to the flashlight.

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Is that the entire warning? I thought there was a part that said "In high ambient temperatures, turbo mode should be use very sparingly to avoid overheating..."

WadeF said:

Is that the entire warning? I thought there was a part that said "In high ambient temperatures, turbo mode should be use very sparingly to avoid overheating..."

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Here is the instruction verbatim: "Max Mode should be used sparingly. Due to its high power consumption, an excessive amount of heat may build up. Under high ambient temperatures do not use the Max Mode for more than 10 minutes continuously, doing so may harm the battery and the flashlight."

I interpret that to mean: Use the Max Mode sparingly (regardless of the ambient temperature) but especially sparingly ( no more than 10 minutes continuous) IF the ambient temps are high.

Note: They do not define what constitutes "high ambient temperatures." As we have seen, what one person thinks is cool, to another person is hot. Many electronic devices specify the ideal ambient operating temperatures and many show a maximum in the high 80's or low 90's. A hand held flashlight can easily absorb heat from human contact as well as the ambient air.

Therefore, I think it's safe to say that run time tests in the Max Mode are pretty much unsafe REGARDLESS of the ambient temperatures which was my point. I do realize that heat build up will vary from model to model. I prefer a light I can run in its maximum mode without fear of damage.

robo21 said:

Therefore, I think it's safe to say that run time tests in the Max Mode are pretty much unsafe REGARDLESS of the ambient temperatures which was my point. I do realize that heat build up will vary from model to model. I prefer a light I can run in its maximum mode without fear of damage.

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I haven't been in a situation yet where I had to run TURBO for extended periods of time, and I would be a little nervous leaving it on TURBO to do a run time test, although others have. I don't know if doing so has damaged their lights. Holding the light in your hand helps to absorb heat out out of the light, keeping the light cooler than if it was left to just tail stand.

robo21 said:

A hand held flashlight can easily absorb heat from human contact as well as the ambient air ... Therefore, I think it's safe to say that run time tests in the Max Mode are pretty much unsafe REGARDLESS of the ambient temperatures which was my point. I do realize that heat build up will vary from model to model. I prefer a light I can run in its maximum mode without fear of damage.

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Actually, human contact is encouraged for operating aluminum lights. Your own circulatory system will help draw heat away from the light, thanks to the thin interface in-between (i.e. your skin). A light run in candle-mode will got hotter far faster than one that is held in your hand.

I believe the issue here is with the P1D (or any similar sized light), which has a relatively low aluminum mass (and hence lower heatsinking surface area). In contrast, the L2D running at the same Max/Turbo intensity should be reasonably fine due to its larger size. This is a similar problem for 1AAA lights running on high voltage Li-ion rechargeables (i.e. 10440s) - thermal runaway is possible, which could damage/destroy an emitter.

I don't believe this is a specific Fenix problem - they are just being more upfront than most about the risks of running small lights at high drive currents.

Not to carry this off-topic, but definitely the Sanyo Eneloops or the Rayovac Hybrid rechargeable batteries will serve quite well in this light.

swxb12 said:

I've been very satisfied running My L2D CE strictly on turbo. I think the one weakness is my use of Energizer NiMH batteries...they are self-discharging faster than I can make substantial use of them. Eneloops in my sights.

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selfbuilt said:

Actually, human contact is encouraged for operating aluminum lights. Your own circulatory system will help draw heat away from the light, thanks to the thin interface in-between (i.e. your skin). A light run in candle-mode will got hotter far faster than one that is held in your hand.

I believe the issue here is with the P1D (or any similar sized light), which has a relatively low aluminum mass (and hence lower heatsinking surface area). In contrast, the L2D running at the same Max/Turbo intensity should be reasonably fine due to its larger size. This is a similar problem for 1AAA lights running on high voltage Li-ion rechargeables (i.e. 10440s) - thermal runaway is possible, which could damage/destroy an emitter.

I don't believe this is a specific Fenix problem - they are just being more upfront than most about the risks of running small lights at high drive currents.

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That's good to know Selfbuilt, thanks for the reply. My reference to holding the light in hand was only that human skin is approximately 93 degrees and that if the 90 degree temperature range is considered to be "high ambient" temperature by Fenix, then there could be a problem.

robo21 said:

That's good to know Selfbuilt, thanks for the reply. My reference to holding the light in hand was only that human skin is approximately 93 degrees and that if the 90 degree temperature range is considered to be "high ambient" temperature by Fenix, then there could be a problem.

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I'd consider high ambient temperature to be 120F+. You can look up what temp CREE's are rated for, and then get an idea about at what temperature is too high for the light to be able to cool itself.

Luckily we usually use lights at night when it isn't very hot.

WadeF said:

I haven't been in a situation yet where I had to run TURBO for extended periods of time, and I would be a little nervous leaving it on TURBO to do a run time test, although others have.

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I agree wholeheartedly! :thumbsup:

WadeF said:

Holding the light in your hand helps to absorb heat out out of the light, keeping the light cooler than if it was left to just tail stand.

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That sounds about right.

--dupe--

WadeF said:

I'd consider high ambient temperature to be 120F+. You can look up what temp CREE's are rated for, and then get an idea about at what temperature is too high for the light to be able to cool itself.

Luckily we usually use lights at night when it isn't very hot.

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:laughing: See how personal the definition of "high ambient temperatures" can be? I'd say 90 degrees is plenty high. I don't know where you would ever find 120 degrees at night when a flashlight would be used.

I use my Fenix L1D CE and L2D RB100 in turbo mode as bike lights. The L1D CE on the helmet and the L2D RB100 as a frame mounted light. They do get the breeze from riding and I have not had any problems with over heating. If you are worried about using it without the wind blast, get the L1D RB100 (when/if available) or L1D CE and press on. The single AA models generally won't overheat.

Is it safe to run L2D-CE on Turbo mode at all times?

I had a complete failure of L2D-CE after 2-3 weeks of usage and no accidents with it. I ran it exclusively on Turbo, never really longer than 20 minutes at a time. It did get hot at times. One day it just failed to turn on, and fresh cells and a new switch failed to fix it. I wonder if the Turbo mode is what destroyed it.

Since I got a replacement, I wonder if I should be more cautious with the modes and run it in High, which is almost as high as Turbo.

Any other experiences with the Turbo mode on L2D-CE?

etc said:

Is it safe to run L2D-CE on Turbo mode at all times?

I had a complete failure of L2D-CE after 2-3 weeks of usage and no accidents with it. I ran it exclusively on Turbo, never really longer than 20 minutes at a time. It did get hot at times. One day it just failed to turn on, and fresh cells and a new switch failed to fix it. I wonder if the Turbo mode is what destroyed it.

Since I got a replacement, I wonder if I should be more cautious with the modes and run it in High, which is almost as high as Turbo.

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Sounds plausible to me, especially if it got hot and you were running in the Turbo mode.

Sounds like this deserves its own thread.