Things break at the worst possible time!

Showing Off and Murphy's Law.

I went caving. Big gimongouse cave (Cottonwood in NM). Everyone had Tikka type Nichia LED headlights. These Nichia LED Tikkas were perfect for tight small caves, but not for this big one.

I, of course, the flashaholic pretending to be a caver had the brightest lights. I had a K2 headlight from RiverRock strapped to my helmet, a modded Nite Ize Mag 2AA strapped to my helmet and a L2D-CE on my belt as the auxilliary/backup light.

Everything went really well in the cave, my lights can beam far away and see stuff hanging from the 150 foot cave ceiling. I was using the L2D-CE to provide extra lighting in specially big parts of the cave. I was hoping someone would notice my lights and they did. They wanted to see what lights I got so that they can get the same ones too. But they wanted to see it "after" we were done caving.

So now we were done and got out of the cave. One person wanted to see my L2D-CE. Fine, handed it over and showed em a few tricks like the half-clicks and head twisting to control light intensity. All of a sudden, poof, lights went out. I thought maybe the batteries were dead. Replaced the batteries, but nope, no lights. Argh!!! Just when I could show someone my lights, then it happens.

I found out later the contact points were dirty and needed some wipe off my shirt. Got the lights back on but no more attention from my fellow cavers. Darn it!

I think Fenix's are prone to this problem with their anodized tail threads. I think it's related to the flickering problem when they get dirty as well.

I think everyone learned a valuable lesson why Fenix lights are not Sure-Fires.

The same thing happened to me with my Q3 once. I was in the process of showing it to someone, and when I turned it on, it went flicker-flicker-POOF and a thin trail of smoke emanated from the light.

ampdude said:

I think Fenix's are prone to this problem with their anodized tail threads...

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It's true that Fenix's tail end (and some head end) design - where the current flows directly from the end of the body tube to a contact ring on the head PCB or tail switch rather than through the threads - requires that the end of the body and the contact ring be fairly clean. However, not sending current through the threads also means that circuit resistance doesn't care about how lubed or not lubed (or lubed with what) your threads are, which I find an advantage.

Once in a while, I'll wipe the end of the body off on something when I change batteries, and it seems to take care of it. The anal retentive can also wipe the contact rings off with a Q-tip once in a long while if they feel they need to.

Hmm, maybe I am a little AR....

PhotonWrangler said:

The same thing happened to me with my Q3 once. I was in the process of showing it to someone, and when I turned it on, it went flicker-flicker-POOF and a thin trail of smoke emanated from the light.

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Are you serious? So your lights really crashed and burned?

ltiu said:

Are you serious? So your lights really crashed and burned?

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Yep, I'm serious. The driver board fried right before my eyes. Brings new meaning to the phrase "bar-b-q chips."

ltiu said:

Showing Off and Murphy's Law....

..... One person wanted to see my L2D-CE. Fine, handed it over and showed em a few tricks like the half-clicks and head twisting to control light intensity. All of a sudden, poof, lights went out. I thought maybe the batteries were dead. Replaced the batteries, but nope, no lights. Argh!!! Just when I could show someone my lights, then it happens.

I found out later the contact points were dirty and needed some wipe off my shirt. Got the lights back on but no more attention from my fellow cavers. Darn it!

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Sad to say, but they probably ended up not being impressed by your Fenix light. Chances are, they're going to think it's unreliable.

I'm glad you decided to post this true story. While I don't think Fenix lights are unreliable, sometimes you need a light to work as soon as you grab it.... even if it's covered in dirt. Good thing you had other lights on you, in case the Fenix went out while you were caving. Still, I didn't know such a problem existed with Fenix lights.

When it comes to back-up lights, I have a different take on the subject than most folks do. A back-up light should be smaller. It can even be dimmer. But it must be at least just as reliable as your main light.... I had planned to order a handful of Fenix models for the Holidays. But now, I'm not so sure. I think you just saved me some money.

surefire or fenix, it doesn't matter if your going into a cave your going to get dirty, no way around it...if I was to go into a cave with my lights, I'd choose something that does not require turning but clicky equipped so I can tape up the areas that are prone to collect dirt with tape.

I'm surprised by reading the past couple threads explaining fenix's failing reliability when the contacts are [even just a little] dirty.

so far my L2P/P1-CE havent had any contact related issues and they've been everywhere...including the laundry with mud dried boots and soiled underwear...
gotta love 4sevens for including spare rubber boots and o-rings

Being new to this forum, I thought I was the only person who was not all that impressed with my Fenix.

I had a simular thing happen to me. I was out in a park where some students had their tents (was inauguration of new students... some kind of..hmm Idont know exactly what they where doing) anyway I was sitting in one of the tents, and a girl next to me needed a light, so I was quick to loan here my P2D, put it in low mode. When she took the light it started to flip modes and shut off and flicker. what the f***! I tried to twist the light to high and back to low, but it didnt solve it. I think it was because of some dirt on the threads, but I dont know for sure. It acts like that once in a while! One thing is for sure though! I would NEVER bring it caving!

brian408 said:

Being new to this forum, I thought I was the only person who was not all that impressed with my Fenix.

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I'll fill you in, since you're new here.

A significant number of CPFers fall into two camps. Those who love Surefires, and those who love Fenix lights. You'll find more threads about those two companies than any other. Some members on both sides take their brand loyalty too far. (If you ever see a thread comparing a Fenix model to a Surefire model.... run away! Unless you want to see the maturity level on these forums sink faster than the Titanic). While I love the 7 Surefires I own, (6 different models) I personally don't care for many of the company's business practices. Still, short of a close range shotgun blast, a Surefire is going to keep working under very harsh conditions.

With Fenix lights, you get more runtime and usually more lumens compared to a Surefire model. But a lot of Fenix lights have a complicated User Interface. (Too many modes for a Duty Light). Also not as durable or reliable as a comparable Surefire model. But definitely less expensive. (You get what you pay for).

Monocrom said:

I'll fill you in, since you're new here.

A significant number of CPFers fall into two camps. Those who love Surefires, and those who love Fenix lights. You'll find more threads about those two companies than any other. Some members on both sides take their brand loyalty too far. (If you ever see a thread comparing a Fenix model to a Surefire model.... run away! Unless you want to see the maturity level on these forums sink faster than the Titanic). While I love the 7 Surefires I own, (6 different models) I personally don't care for many of the company's business practices. Still, short of a close range shotgun blast, a Surefire is going to keep working under very harsh conditions.

With Fenix lights, you get more runtime and usually more lumens compared to a Surefire model. But a lot of Fenix lights have a complicated User Interface. (Too many modes for a Duty Light). Also not as durable or reliable as a comparable Surefire model. But definitely less expensive. (You get what you pay for).

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Monocrom,

I think that sums up the whole Surefire vs. Fenix dispute going on round here :shakeheadperfectly. They both (the lights AND the companies) have their individual strength and weaknesses.
In the end it all comes down to personal preference and intended use (duty light / hobby light)

I don't care what brand the light is, or how good the quality is, when I get a new light it gets a total cleaning and contact treatment. I find some lights come with dirty residue on the threads, which can get onto contact points, etc. I wipe it all down and I re-lube. If the threads need to make contact I use deoxit contact treatment, they make one that's a lubricant. For the other contact points I use deoxit pens or sprays, treat the contacts, wipe them down, I may clean with alcohol if needed, and then give a light treatment of deoxit and put things back together.

I find most products can be improved on with basic maitenance. The same for knives, many can use a good cleaning around the pivots and can be re-lubricated with something superior to what the manufacturer used.

I doubt the Fenix would have failed had it been cleaned and conditioned properly before hand. Making sure the o-rings were greased, etc.

I find my Fenix's ususally have some dark looking sludge on the rings, and I could see how that could work its way to where it doesn't belong.

Monocrom said:

I'm glad you decided to post this true story. While I don't think Fenix lights are unreliable, sometimes you need a light to work as soon as you grab it.... even if it's covered in dirt. Good thing you had other lights on you, in case the Fenix went out while you were caving. Still, I didn't know such a problem existed with Fenix lights.

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The light failed AFTER we got out of the cave (goodness gracious). It failed when I wanted to show them the multiple modes and light levels. It failed when I TWISTED the head. It was working fine when I had it on Turbo the whole time while inside the cave. I learned my lesson, don't try to twist the head if you really need the light to work.

I bring 4 lights into a cave. Always ready for lights to fail!

m1ruf said:

Monocrom,

I think that sums up the whole Surefire vs. Fenix dispute going on round here :shakeheadperfectly. They both (the lights AND the companies) have their individual strength and weaknesses.
In the end it all comes down to personal preference and intended use (duty light / hobby light)

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& how much 1 is willing to spend on a single light & not care too much about others' not-so-fair opinions on the pricetag...

sORe-EyEz said:

....opinions on the pricetag...

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With lights, you generally DO get what you paid for. I own many other lights besides Surefire. Never had a major issue with any expensive light I've bought.

But there have indeed been times when I cheaped out, and regretted it.

Here's how I see it..... If you spend considerably less $$$ than originally intended, on a cheaper model, and it doesn't work reliably; you've lost the money you spent on it AND you still don't have the type of light you wanted. So you go buy the one you originally wanted, and end up spending the $$$ anyway. So you basically flushed the money used on the cheaper model, down the toilet!

Hello,

The more expensive flashlight brands can have their problems as well. Once they do work, however, they do well.
I had problems with new Peaks and Arcs as well as I had problems with the "cheap" Inovas or Fenixes.
I can't recall any problem with a Maglite though

Kind regards,
Joris

22hornet said:

I can't recall any problem with a Maglite though

Kind regards,
Joris

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I can..... 3D cell that I used to keep in my car. Checked it one day. Wouldn't light up. Rubber switch popped out while I was holding it. Couldn't pop it back in. Went to unscrew the bezel to check for a possible blown bulb, and the whole thing fell apart in my hands!

Similar thing happened with a Mini-mag too.

ltiu said:

I bring 4 lights into a cave. Always ready for lights to fail!

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I've never had the opportunity to go caving (there aren't any real caves where I live), but were I to go, I'd probably pack every light I own. And about a backpackful of spare batteries, too.

Never had trouble with my lights, but that Murphy guy knew what he was talking about. One is none.

You know, this is why I really, really liked the Underwater Kinetics lights.

Not too bright, not metal, but just very slightly bigger than the batteries that power them, extremely reliable, reasonably cheap.

It's a shame that polymer lights can't sink the heat from the new LEDs effectively for extreme brightness, and that technically UK seems to be falling behind a little, but they're still extremely solid, good value for money lights.