New L2D RB100 Owner -- Next Fenix?

Hi all. I joined CPF a couple of years ago, but drifted away for a while. I have recently started reading the forum again, and am blown away by the new choices made available by LED technology. I ordered a Fenix L2D v2.0 rb100 and it arrived in the mail a couple of weeks ago. I love this light! It is already my EDC. It has replaced my previous EDC pocket light, which was either a Strion or a 6P+A19+P90+Li-Ion 17500's. The light's output is incredible for such a small, thin light, and to be able to create this kind of light with AA's is even harder to believe (I'm currently using Duracell NiMH 2650's).

Anyway, I am now ready to purchase another Fenix. I would like to have at least one light with a forward clickie momentary-on tailcap. However, I have some questions about mixing Fenix bodies, tailcaps, and heads. What I am thinking about is getting an L1T v2.0, and then a P2D body. My second set of options is to buy a P2D outright, and get a "tactical switch" for it. The P2D body would give me the option of having the same light output as I get with the 2xAA but in an extremely compact package. Below are some questions that I have before deciding which options to pursue:

1) Can I use the L1T v2.0 head and (forward clickie) tailcap with the L2D v2.0 body? Essentially this would give me the option of having an L2T v2.0 if/when I need (or just want to try) one.

2) Can I use the L1T v2.0 tailcap with the L2D body and L2D head? I would not be looking to have the multiple levels of the digital series, just turbo and low.

3) Would the L2D tailcap work with the L1T body and head?

4) Has anyone tried the Fenix "tactical" tailcap with the Rogers/SureFire flashlight technique? Does this work? I want to carry at least one light that I can use this way, if the Fenix switch doesn't, I will have to find at least one other light to carry (of course, I'm thinking about a Lumens Factory EO-9 lamp assembly for the 6P already --- whether the Fenix tactical switch works or not!).

I just got my L2D-CE in the mail yesterday, and I love it! I was going to spring for the Rebel version but I decided against it. If the L2D-CE is this good, I can't imagine what the Rebel version would be like!

I'm a nubby here, been lurking for a couple weeks.. Got my Fenix P2D-CE and my P2D RB100 before I heard of this place.

I gave away my P2D-CE cause the Q5's are so close.

Anyways, side-by-side, the 175 Lumen Rebel didn't look as bright as the 135 lumen CREE. The CREE put out more of a white light, the Rebel put out a (slightly) more yellow light. The Rebel flashlight came with an orange peel reflector, the CREE with a smooth reflector.

From what I'm seeing in beamshots, you can see better with a yellow(ish) light outside, the white reflects back at you too much.. and the more white lights work fine for indoors because the color rendering is important.

That's my 2 cents.

JackHays said:

1) Can I use the L1T v2.0 head and (forward clickie) tailcap with the L2D v2.0 body? Essentially this would give me the option of having an L2T v2.0 if/when I need (or just want to try) one.

2) Can I use the L1T v2.0 tailcap with the L2D body and L2D head? I would not be looking to have the multiple levels of the digital series, just turbo and low.

3) Would the L2D tailcap work with the L1T body and head?

Click to expand...

From what I understand, all the Lxx series stuff is compatible. Heads, tails, bodies can all be swapped around. I know this is true for all LxD series components, and the L1T tailcap works on my L1D body (but you should probably double check LxD and LxT head compatibility before you buy, just to be sure).

The P2 heads can also be thrown in the mix, but Pxx series tails are different.

BUT... tail switch components can be swapped out. For example, I wanted a "tactical" P3D, so I bought a L1T tactical tailcap, and took out the internal switch components and put them in my P3D cap.

The multiple levels and modes of the xxD series are all contained in the head. The only function of the bodies and switches are to contain batteries, and conduct power. The functions are all determined by the power the head receives. If it gets power, it turns on at it's default first level. If power goes off and back on within a second and a half, it changes to the next mode, etc. It's a little more complicated than that, but the point is LxT components won't compromise the function or modes of a LxD head.

Clear as mud? :candle:

If I were you, I would get a LxT tactical tailcap, and a P2D body/tailcap. That way, you can still use your L2D "stock", you can have a "tactical" L2D, or you can have a P2D (tactical or not, up to you - you'd have the option of both).

If you wanted the full trifecta, you could throw in a L1D body - then you would have everything you need for single AA configuration, double AA configuration, or single 123 configuration, as well as the tactical option for each.

m13a8 said:

If the L2D-CE is this good, I can't imagine what the Rebel version would be like!

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I have one of each RB100, and a standard P4 CE and they seem pretty similar in brightness in the hotspot. The flood area seems a little brighter on the RB100. The "flashing" when first turning it on is more obvious on the RB100 as well. The RB100 is also a bit more yellow compared to the CE.

mchlwise said:

From what I understand, all the Lxx series stuff is compatible. Heads, tails, bodies can all be swapped around. I know this is true for all LxD series components, and the L1T tailcap works on my L1D body (but you should probably double check LxD and LxT head compatibility before you buy, just to be sure).

The P2 heads can also be thrown in the mix, but Pxx series tails are different.

BUT... tail switch components can be swapped out. For example, I wanted a "tactical" P3D, so I bought a L1T tactical tailcap, and took out the internal switch components and put them in my P3D cap.

The multiple levels and modes of the xxD series are all contained in the head. The only function of the bodies and switches are to contain batteries, and conduct power. The functions are all determined by the power the head receives. If it gets power, it turns on at it's default first level. If power goes off and back on within a second and a half, it changes to the next mode, etc. It's a little more complicated than that, but the point is LxT components won't compromise the function or modes of a LxD head.

Clear as mud? :candle:

If I were you, I would get a LxT tactical tailcap, and a P2D body/tailcap. That way, you can still use your L2D "stock", you can have a "tactical" L2D, or you can have a P2D (tactical or not, up to you - you'd have the option of both).

If you wanted the full trifecta, you could throw in a L1D body - then you would have everything you need for single AA configuration, double AA configuration, or single 123 configuration, as well as the tactical option for each.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the very thorough description, allthough I'm still a bit confused here.

1. You're saying that all the electronics are in the head. So if I use a tactical LxT tailcap on a LxD(works on both cree and rebel?) how would that work? Since the different levels, strobe and SOS is still in the head? Does it jump to a new level every time you turn of the light, so you get a surprise every time you turn on the ligth?


2. If I use a tactical tailcap on an LxD, will it be as bright on turbo or less? Since the LxT models seems to be rated at a lower lumens on high than the LxD.

And appogizes if I highjacked the thread.

Cheers.

coldlocus said:

Thanks for the very thorough description, allthough I'm still a bit confused here.

1. You're saying that all the electronics are in the head. So if I use a tactical LxT tailcap on a LxD(works on both cree and rebel?) how would that work? Since the different levels, strobe and SOS is still in the head? Does it jump to a new level every time you turn of the light, so you get a surprise every time you turn on the ligth?


2. If I use a tactical tailcap on an LxD, will it be as bright on turbo or less? Since the LxT models seems to be rated at a lower lumens on high than the LxD.

And appogizes if I highjacked the thread.

Cheers.

Click to expand...

1) The electronics are in the head. The light always turns on at low unless you have the bezel tightened in which case it will start in Turbo (assuming it's been off for a few seconds since it was last turned on).

2) It's just as bright, however there's no point of using a tactical tailcap on the LxD because you can't use the light in short bursts turning it off and on (which is the point of tactical tailcap) because it will be cycling though the different modes instead of just turning off and on.

Stereodude said:

1) The electronics are in the head. The light always turns on at low unless you have the bezel tightened in which case it will start in Turbo (assuming it's been off for a few seconds since it was last turned on).

2) It's just as bright, however there's no point of using a tactical tailcap on the LxD because you can't use the light in short bursts turning it off and on (which is the point of tactical tailcap) because it will be cycling though the different modes instead of just turning off and on.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the clarification!

Would be cool if they released a L2T 100RB, would be an ideal light.

divine said:

Anyways, side-by-side, the 175 Lumen Rebel didn't look as bright as the 135 lumen CREE. The CREE put out more of a white light, the Rebel put out a (slightly) more yellow light. The Rebel flashlight came with an orange peel reflector, the CREE with a smooth reflector.

From what I'm seeing in beamshots, you can see better with a yellow(ish) light outside, the white reflects back at you too much.. and the more white lights work fine for indoors because the color rendering is important.

That's my 2 cents.

Click to expand...

More likely the Rebel looks less bright because the OP reflector diffuses the beam more than the smooth reflector. They're putting out comparable total amounts of lights but the smooth reflector is making a smaller spot so the beam is more intense there.

The usual simple output test is the ceiling bounce test. Sit in a dark room and bounce the light off the ceiling, while looking at stuff in the room such as the furniture, noticing how brightly it's lit by the indirect light. Then do the same with the other light and compare. It's easiest to compare by turning on both lights simultaneously but covering the bezel of one with your hand, blocking its light. Then you can switch back and forth easily to do A/B comparisons.