stewed
Newly Enlightened
Hi All
I was in a parking lot doing a demo of my DIY Mountain bike light and a friend asked me to post the pic's on this site. This is a cut/paste from my post on MTBR.com. There is a follow up post with question about optics also. This is were I got the Cree XR-E MR11 - bFlex kit.
http://cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=41
wanted one of the new $300.00 LED lights - 3 weeks of calling the
lbs and getting "any day" then I got "all gone" LOL. So I placed an
order to Cutter. Built the light and just returned from my first trail
test.It was killer. My ride ended early due to a chain break but the hour I spent on the
trail gave a great impression. This light floods the the trail with light. Sorry the beam
photos did not come out. I will post later on battery run times. This was the build.
Just finshed a bench test. After 2hr 10min on high the light shut off. From one 2200mah battery.
The light, wiring harness, battery. I went with 2 2200ma packs instead
of 1 4400ma pack cause the price was only $2.00 more. They both come
with the circuit for battery protection. Also 1 pack fits in a pouch
I had for my camera, not used at night. Most weekday night rides will
be about 1.5-2 hrs -1 pack. On longer rides I can do a swap. The
wiring harness has a momentary push button for beam control and
programming. It's mounted on a ring that snaps on and off the handle
bar by my right shifter. The wiring is a lose end. Not sure if I'm
going to change it or just cover it with shrink. I plan to dip the
batteries and switch in plastic dip. Good waterproofing and easily
removed.
The light mount has a quick release.
I found the flash light at electronics parts house when I went to get some connectors.
When I take it apart I find the lock ring fits very snug around the
LED heat sink. The LED,lens.heat sink assembly screw in and buts up
against the front lens. That was sweet.
But I had to shave down the edges of heat sink so the handle will
screw back on.
I go through a dry run to make sure everything fits. Clean the clear
parts. Put heat past on the sink and on the threads of the lock ring.
And assemble.
Next I need to seal it cause I'm going pore thermal epoxy in and want
to keep it out of the lens area. There are a few holes in the heat
sink and notches around the lock ring. I used RTV.
Next I screw in the handle. Not to concerned about getting a o ring seal
cause the epoxy will do that. Mixed and pored the thermal potting
epoxy . Filled it about a 1/2inch up the handle. Let it set 24h.
The Task led PCB is 25.4mm and the flashlight handle is 23.4mm so I
needed 2 flat spots on the PCB to make it fit sideways in the handle.
With a dremel I shaved about 1mm by the coil and another 1mm directly
across form it. This cuts into the planes but they are common to each
other and the -in pad. Not a big deal. Could not find my sealer so I
just cut a narrow strip of electrical tape to wrap the edge.
There is a nice button hole in the back of the cap to put a connector
but mine barely fit cause the cap is double walled. I did not even
have room to put a o ring on so I just used RTV on inside.
Lots of fun doing this. Thanks to all the posters, especially Gilbo :thumbsup: that share ideas.
followup post
Thanks. I was looking for a housing in a MR-11 size. This one was a little larger - if you look close at the front photo the Khatod lens outline is visible. The main reason I picked this one was price- about $15.00. The thermally conductive epoxy was the key. Move the heat from the heat sink to the case. The package says 28-LED metal flash Light. The brand is SE part# FL328T1. http://www.orvac.com/ link to the store. Don't know if they ship.
Here is a question for anybody that knows optics
Cutter describes the lens as a Khatod narrow beam 35mm Triple optic. This think lights up the trail in front and easily 20feet to each side.I would not describe it as a narrow beam. I am wondering if if the having the Khatod lens butted up to the plastic Lens of the cheap flashlight changes the optics any. Not complaining - the light is great.
I was in a parking lot doing a demo of my DIY Mountain bike light and a friend asked me to post the pic's on this site. This is a cut/paste from my post on MTBR.com. There is a follow up post with question about optics also. This is were I got the Cree XR-E MR11 - bFlex kit.
http://cutter.com.au/products.php?cat=41
wanted one of the new $300.00 LED lights - 3 weeks of calling the
lbs and getting "any day" then I got "all gone" LOL. So I placed an
order to Cutter. Built the light and just returned from my first trail
test.It was killer. My ride ended early due to a chain break but the hour I spent on the
trail gave a great impression. This light floods the the trail with light. Sorry the beam
photos did not come out. I will post later on battery run times. This was the build.
Just finshed a bench test. After 2hr 10min on high the light shut off. From one 2200mah battery.
The light, wiring harness, battery. I went with 2 2200ma packs instead
of 1 4400ma pack cause the price was only $2.00 more. They both come
with the circuit for battery protection. Also 1 pack fits in a pouch
I had for my camera, not used at night. Most weekday night rides will
be about 1.5-2 hrs -1 pack. On longer rides I can do a swap. The
wiring harness has a momentary push button for beam control and
programming. It's mounted on a ring that snaps on and off the handle
bar by my right shifter. The wiring is a lose end. Not sure if I'm
going to change it or just cover it with shrink. I plan to dip the
batteries and switch in plastic dip. Good waterproofing and easily
removed.
The light mount has a quick release.
I found the flash light at electronics parts house when I went to get some connectors.
When I take it apart I find the lock ring fits very snug around the
LED heat sink. The LED,lens.heat sink assembly screw in and buts up
against the front lens. That was sweet.
But I had to shave down the edges of heat sink so the handle will
screw back on.
I go through a dry run to make sure everything fits. Clean the clear
parts. Put heat past on the sink and on the threads of the lock ring.
And assemble.
Next I need to seal it cause I'm going pore thermal epoxy in and want
to keep it out of the lens area. There are a few holes in the heat
sink and notches around the lock ring. I used RTV.
Next I screw in the handle. Not to concerned about getting a o ring seal
cause the epoxy will do that. Mixed and pored the thermal potting
epoxy . Filled it about a 1/2inch up the handle. Let it set 24h.
The Task led PCB is 25.4mm and the flashlight handle is 23.4mm so I
needed 2 flat spots on the PCB to make it fit sideways in the handle.
With a dremel I shaved about 1mm by the coil and another 1mm directly
across form it. This cuts into the planes but they are common to each
other and the -in pad. Not a big deal. Could not find my sealer so I
just cut a narrow strip of electrical tape to wrap the edge.
There is a nice button hole in the back of the cap to put a connector
but mine barely fit cause the cap is double walled. I did not even
have room to put a o ring on so I just used RTV on inside.
Lots of fun doing this. Thanks to all the posters, especially Gilbo :thumbsup: that share ideas.
followup post
Thanks. I was looking for a housing in a MR-11 size. This one was a little larger - if you look close at the front photo the Khatod lens outline is visible. The main reason I picked this one was price- about $15.00. The thermally conductive epoxy was the key. Move the heat from the heat sink to the case. The package says 28-LED metal flash Light. The brand is SE part# FL328T1. http://www.orvac.com/ link to the store. Don't know if they ship.
Here is a question for anybody that knows optics
Cutter describes the lens as a Khatod narrow beam 35mm Triple optic. This think lights up the trail in front and easily 20feet to each side.I would not describe it as a narrow beam. I am wondering if if the having the Khatod lens butted up to the plastic Lens of the cheap flashlight changes the optics any. Not complaining - the light is great.
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