if its using alkaline AA cells, the discharge charts on those at 1amp show they put out more like 1.2V . so that is only some 10.8v not the maximum 1.5x9. so the drivers are going to fall out fast.
although the total max that the Direct type drive could reach is important, so ya dont fry the leds, how the battery will be operating under the 1 amp load becomes a factor over the speced 1.5v for the cell itself.
i often use 1.2V per cell for alklines in my measurements because of how they operate under the load i hit them with.
here is the chart i use to guess how a alkie AA might work
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v482/SilverFoxCPF/AAComparison1A.gif
OH my, lol, that is sooo bad looking, poor alakines , no wonder why i use ni-mhys instead. well at least there is the fact that they will work better if they are rested between this 1amp load.
so a average joe usage of it wouldn't be THAT bad looking, and the self regulation (battery weakness) will keep it from overdriving in time more.
an alkaline rested will recover some to go again, and the chart uses Constant current, wheras the direct drive the current will taper WAY down as the voltage drops and self regulate the combo. as the current tapers from the weak battery voltage, so to will the draw on the battery. its matching magic.
note the chart is cutoff at .8v, long before then the self regulation of the DIRECT battery led combo would have lowered the total current and given the alkaline a bit of a break.
so unlike the chart , and more like the reality, it will drive at a bit over an amp, wane down a bit, push an amp for a while, and still be pushing a Half amp or so to each led for a very long time. 1/2 the total lumens about 80% of the percieved light to the human.
but ya know after looking at that chart, i can see why the tendancy to use drivers for alklines is so important.
AND i am looking for drivers myself, and that is why i was pointing at the possible voltages in the things, the voltage I want, they dont have either :-( its driving me up the wall, the curcuit needs to be able to handle the wide range , or its just wasting.
and george is out of maxflexes , but there is nflexes
which would work here i think, if you toss out the nflex diode.
it sucks a lot when the curcuit has fallen out of its needed input voltage and still has huge voltage drops TOO, when your on tight voltage specs like this.
self regulation and less losses in curcuit stuff when its done correctally, make for an amasing light, at least as amasing as one with proper curcuit stuff. if you cant get to the voltage with the curcuits stuff, then its going to be sub par. the alkaline voltage is saggy, which can be used to an advantage with DD.
if Firecop pulls it all off right, there wont be short runtimes, there will be some declining output, with that curcuit you still have declining output, large losses, and falling out of regulations :-(
on the other hand if a curcuit was used that FULLY maintained the current to exact 1amp levels, the alaklines will just get pushed down so hard it will be worse, it wont slack off, and the alklines will just fold under the INCREASED current from them. that DX curcuit wont do that, because it will have fallen out long before then, but a perfect current control curcuit would.
and that is why i am having troubles finding the magic driver too.
