DX 5-Mode 1000mA 7135 Driver for Mag Mod?

edc3

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
823
Location
Souptown
I'd like to mod a 3D mag with a Seoul and this driver:

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6190

and I've got a couple of questions.

First of all, would it work?

Second, how would I wire it? I assume the positive wire from the switch would be soldered to the center of the bottom side of the board and the negative wire from the switch would be soldered to the outside ring. Is this correct?

Finally, would I need to heat sink the board and how would I do this?

Thanks in advance for your help.
 

extas

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 15, 2004
Messages
84
all i can help with is the wiring. and you are correct. the center ring goes to the positive and the outer ring goes to the switch. which is similar to the single mode board which i have used.

I can't help any more than that though as i haven't really looked closely at the MAG guts for awhile.

-ex
 

StefanFS

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
1,262
Location
Silicon Road 1, Sweden
It works very well. No need for heatsinking, I have done a few 3D Mäg mods with this driver and I tested the setup before to see if the driver got hot, it doesn't. Best results with SSC P4 USXOH/USWOH.
Stefan
 

edc3

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
823
Location
Souptown
Thanks extas.

Nanotech, I watched your video yesterday. That's why I wanted to do a multi-mode mag. :twothumbs

StefanFS, did you secure the driver somehow (i.e. expoxy)? Is this the right emitter?

Thanks!
 

edc3

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
823
Location
Souptown
Thanks, Nanotech. On your 20 mode version did you just leave the driver hanging or did you epoxy it?
 

StefanFS

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
1,262
Location
Silicon Road 1, Sweden
No, I didn't secure them. Just wrapped them in electric tape/kapton tape. You could use some epoxy to attach the driver to the inside/underside of the heatsink, I have used JB Weld for such purposes. I recommend using a U bin with H at the end, the H stands for lower forward voltage, PhotonFanatic & KaiDomain sell P4 US*OH.
Stefan
 

TorchBoy

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 15, 2007
Messages
4,486
Location
New Zealand
Make sure the emitter you use has a low enough operating voltage for the board to work in regulation, especially at 1000mA. I've seen several people abusing the AMC7135 for not regulating, when it's actually doing all it can with the voltage available. It's a linear regulator, so it can only regulate when the voltage is (in this case) 0.12V above what the LED needs at the desired current, and maybe more with the mode controller thrown in there as well.

Or you could just settle for your emitter not running at 1000mA except with fresh cells. Or mod a 4D Maglite instead. :broke:
 

edc3

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
823
Location
Souptown
Thanks for the info TorchBoy. I may try this with 3D or this other driver with a 4D. I just finished a 3D with a 1ohm resistor and I'm happy with it, but like the idea of a regulated light.
 

edc3

Enlightened
Joined
Jan 9, 2007
Messages
823
Location
Souptown
No, I didn't secure them. Just wrapped them in electric tape/kapton tape. You could use some epoxy to attach the driver to the inside/underside of the heatsink, I have used JB Weld for such purposes. I recommend using a U bin with H at the end, the H stands for lower forward voltage, PhotonFanatic & KaiDomain sell P4 US*OH.
Stefan

Thanks, I just got two USX0H from Kai, one of which I used for my first Mag mod so I've got one left for my next mod.
 

Essexman

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2006
Messages
1,192
Location
U.K.
Not securing the driver will leave it banging around inside the mag body a bit. It may have no effect on the driver, but the solder joints where the load and supply wires are attached may be getting a little movment. I would guess that over time (years?) these solder joints could fail. So to be 100% sure I like to secure drivers where possible. It don't have to be fancy, no ones going to see it. A blob of adhesive is all that's needed, or maybe a blob of hot melt glue.
 
Last edited:
Top