TLE-1F runtime/regulation/etc

Well I could answer part of this question, but considering its an all-plastic (well, polymer; whatever) lamp I'd rather not.

I have a TLE-1F from terralux that I have in my PT Solo lamp. Its been on the same alkies for a while now (well, all summer) and they still have solid voltage. I'm curious if anybody knows what type of current this TLE1 draws at 3v (its a 2xAA light) and thus what type of runtime that translates into.

I'm trying to decide if its worth throwing lithiums in there for long-term reliability and cold weather durability. Its basically my back-up light I keep in my pack (which goes anywhere I bike, or on road trips and such).

I'd like to know, also.


_

OK THIS IS SILLY, bumping such an old thread for info on something nobody uses any more but here I am doing it! Not found much info by searching for this old TerraLUX.

Here it is in a nutshell. I have this old 2 C screw base and I wanted to give it an LED. I dug out this really old TerraLUX TLE-1S that I inadvertantly yanked the LED out of when I was trying to get a better look inside. I thought I could save it with a Seoul mod and use it. I had a spare warm S2 Seoul.

The mod worked but the metal cap that surrounds the LED would not fit on again. It looks ugly but it functions for the brief time I'll let it run.

Now I wonder how hot this might get since there's nearly no heatsinking in the module or the light. I can't recall if the stock TLE-1 got hot and if it did was that because of the Luxeon alone. Did this old module ramp down when it warmed up to save the emitter? Not realy sure what it's driven at either, if I knew that it might help me figure something out. I suppose at the same drive level that the Luxeon was running the Seoul would run cooler but I'd like a glimmer of feedback just to be sure.

I am also curioous as to what the runtime might be on 2 C alkalines IF it is safe from overheating.

Yeah I was kinda afraid of this. Probably nobody remembers it.

Anyway I ran it for an hour last night hoping it would live and it survived. I popped it open and grabbed the base of the thing and it was not near as hot as my old L4. Of course the junction temp was most likley way hotter but I kept an eye out for tint shift and didn't see any but as I type this I can't remember if there is a tint shift on warm Seoul's when they overheat!

How did you get the front part off? Did it just pop off of did you get out the ol' hacksaw?

Sgt. LED said:

The mod worked but the metal cap that surrounds the LED would not fit on again. It looks ugly but it functions for the brief time I'll let it run.

Click to expand...

I still got batteries in mine. Alternates as my bathroom light for night trips. Those SSC-P7s are too bright, might as well turn on the room lights. Have not used it much after I put a 2W Cree bulb in my hallway light as a nitelite running 24/7.

Sgt. LED said:

Yeah I was kinda afraid of this. Probably nobody remembers it.

Click to expand...

I just measured 0.408A with it in my 2C M@g. So it should run for just under 5 hours on freshly charged 2AA Eneloops or 6.5 hours on 2 fresh L91 lithiums. I would not guess runtime on alkalines as alkalines tend to decrease in output as the batteries wear down and I do not know the moon mode capabilities of the module.

Well Buck91 & Burgess got an estimate 2 years 4 months after they posted the question. Thanks for waiting.
:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

HAHA! I still use TLE-1F in one of them plastic 4AA Energizer Lanterns...

Anyway, on after 15minutes or so it just starts flickering every 1/2 a second. After about another 5 minutes it got really annoying and i turned it off, took it out and tapped it, it's hot like touching fire from a lighter. It never dimmed. (bare in mind that the unit was fully enclosed in plastic.)

Hope this helps.

Thanks to the both of you! My runtime should be nuts and now I have to go make a small heatsink! :thumbsup: Oh and today I made an adapter so I can run the screw base in a Mag 6D...............NOT doing the runtime test on that one!

Oh and that front part that surrounds the emitter's perimeter is just friction fit actually. I made the mistake of squeezing it too hard while I pulled it off and the ring grabbed the sides of the Luxeon emitter and took it with it.

I am happy with the output, just as much as you need indoors really.