Everett
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
- Messages
- 177
A while ago, I upgraded my E1L to a SSC P4 emitter to boost the output, and just today I added in a 20-mode board for more functionality. The SSC gives an amazing output, but you don't always need blinding brightness so a mode board is the way to go. I use the 20-mode board from DX http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612 because it can be put into a simple low->med->high group to avoid all the flashing, but the other modes are still there if you want them (something like 6 types of strobe and SOS). I've used these DX mode boards in quite a few lights and I've found that the best way to use them is with another driver in front, making a 2-stage drive circuit. Run the output from a standard LED driver into the mode board, then run the mode board's output into the LED. In this way, I was able to keep the original SureFire driver, which has really nice regulation. You get the added bonus of the mode board regulating to 1000mA in the very rare case that the driver fails short and tries to direct drive the LED.
To fit the mode board in the same compartment as the SF driver, its size needs to be reduced. Start by pushing the diode and capacitor over.
Dremel off the now empty area. The big flat side will sit against the inductor on the driver board. Dremel off the other side as much as possible. This severs the ground ring, so the sides need to be reconnected with a wire. With the Dremel, remove the battery connection pads from the bottom of the mode board, they are not needed in this configuration.
A test fit:
The total height is no taller than the inductor, so there is room.
Wire the SF driver's output to the mode board's input. This wiring is really tiny and tricky because the wires have to be routed around components on the driver board so the height stays the same. Add mode board output wires (to LED).
A picture showing the height:
Solder the ring back on and reassemble the lower head. Wire up the LED for a test:
Success!
Apply Arctic Silver 5, wedge the emitter in place, solder connections. I was considering replacing the lens with a reflector (which you can see here next to the head), but upon comparing the beams, I found the lens gives far better throw (albeit with an inferior beam shape):
Get the lenses clean and dust-free, reassemble, and the light is finished. Current draw tests from an RCR123:
160mA on Low (5 hrs estimated)
440mA on Medium (2 hrs estimated)
770mA on High (1 hr estimated)
Thanks for reading!
To fit the mode board in the same compartment as the SF driver, its size needs to be reduced. Start by pushing the diode and capacitor over.
Dremel off the now empty area. The big flat side will sit against the inductor on the driver board. Dremel off the other side as much as possible. This severs the ground ring, so the sides need to be reconnected with a wire. With the Dremel, remove the battery connection pads from the bottom of the mode board, they are not needed in this configuration.
A test fit:
The total height is no taller than the inductor, so there is room.
Wire the SF driver's output to the mode board's input. This wiring is really tiny and tricky because the wires have to be routed around components on the driver board so the height stays the same. Add mode board output wires (to LED).
A picture showing the height:
Solder the ring back on and reassemble the lower head. Wire up the LED for a test:
Success!
Apply Arctic Silver 5, wedge the emitter in place, solder connections. I was considering replacing the lens with a reflector (which you can see here next to the head), but upon comparing the beams, I found the lens gives far better throw (albeit with an inferior beam shape):
Get the lenses clean and dust-free, reassemble, and the light is finished. Current draw tests from an RCR123:
160mA on Low (5 hrs estimated)
440mA on Medium (2 hrs estimated)
770mA on High (1 hr estimated)
Thanks for reading!
