How long will a Cree XR-E Q5 last driven at 2A?
- Thread starter mrk442
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Gunner12
Flashaholic
It should still last a few hundred hours.
Since the 502B takes a p60 type module, you could probably unscrew the module and swap the LED and driver.
Since the 502B takes a p60 type module, you could probably unscrew the module and swap the LED and driver.
Gunner12
Flashaholic
A Q5 will fry it self in a few hours if you just use the star. No enough metal.
Open up the module and see what they use. You could probably trim a star to fit.
The module + the flashlight should be acting as the heatsink since the module is probably touching the light.
Open up the module and see what they use. You could probably trim a star to fit.
The module + the flashlight should be acting as the heatsink since the module is probably touching the light.
I have a an XRE in one of my flashlights that runs slightly under 1500m(About 1450).It gets used every day on average of 20 minutes a day and it is still going strong after almost a year. The Q4 in my Super Thrower is running at 2As and has been doing so for about 6 hours all added up. No sign yet that the leds output has degraded. And I have been monitoring it with a light meter.Just wondering how much they can take and how long they will run at 2A or maybe 1.5a would be better beforeand is a single 18650 capable of feeding a 2A draw.
Thanks,
Matt
Yes one 18650 should be able to take a 2A draw. However you may find it difficult to push that for very long because of the generally high Vf of the Q5s at that drive level. This is much better accomplished with two cells.
Gryloc
Enlightened
mrk442,
I had a good experience with using these drivers:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
I have a 2C Maglite that used a Rebel 0100, powered by two li-ion cells. I wanted the Rebel to operate at ~2A or slightly less. I read that someone on the DX forum (saabman) successfully hooked two in parrallel to combine the current outputs of the two drivers. I am sure any driver can do this, but I was always concerned that with some current regulating drivers, the electronics would conflict (from any signals created from the ICs that may be found in the output leads -I am not an EE). The drivers are spec'ed at 800mA, but they seem to vary a bit (between 800mA and 1000mA I believe). So you should see anywhere from 1.5A to 2A with two in parrallel. My two gave me almost 2A when in parrallel, and they perform very nicely. If the current is too high, then read the little post about scraping a bit of material off of the 20M-Ohm resistor to reduce the output current.
So, whether you have one 18650 or two, this driver will work for you. As for the 18650s, they should be able to handle 2A since this draw should be at or below 1C (most cells have a 2000mAh-2600mAh capacity). With a driver, the current draw should be less than 2A if the LED is at 2A. The Vf of the Q5 Cree at 2A should still be below the output voltage of the 18650 with a full charge. Remember, Iin * Vin = Iout * Vout. With two cells in series going to the driver, the current will be half of this, so you will be even better off.
As for LEDs, 2A will not kill the emitters if they are properly heatsinked and they are somewhat cool. Lifetime will be reduced, but it should still last for many thousands of hours. Efficiency will take a hit, but in a super bright, super throwing torch, who cares? (I do not
) Expect somewhere over 300lm at 2A with a Q5. The Q4s produced over 325lm @ 2A according to this article:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172379
There will be losses due to heat, the lens, and the reflector, but they are insignificant.
I am constantly impressed by my Rebel 0100 at 2A with the stock 50mm Maglite reflector. My cheaper light meter reads over 20,000 lux at 1 meter (conservatively), and my meter seems to have lower readings with cool colored LEDs. Many with this meter say that their readings are on the low side. With a Q5 and the proper reflector (like yours), you will get a similar satisfaction.
Well, good luck and happy modding! I hope the heatsinking is good enough so you can go through with the mod.
-Tony
I had a good experience with using these drivers:
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
I have a 2C Maglite that used a Rebel 0100, powered by two li-ion cells. I wanted the Rebel to operate at ~2A or slightly less. I read that someone on the DX forum (saabman) successfully hooked two in parrallel to combine the current outputs of the two drivers. I am sure any driver can do this, but I was always concerned that with some current regulating drivers, the electronics would conflict (from any signals created from the ICs that may be found in the output leads -I am not an EE). The drivers are spec'ed at 800mA, but they seem to vary a bit (between 800mA and 1000mA I believe). So you should see anywhere from 1.5A to 2A with two in parrallel. My two gave me almost 2A when in parrallel, and they perform very nicely. If the current is too high, then read the little post about scraping a bit of material off of the 20M-Ohm resistor to reduce the output current.
So, whether you have one 18650 or two, this driver will work for you. As for the 18650s, they should be able to handle 2A since this draw should be at or below 1C (most cells have a 2000mAh-2600mAh capacity). With a driver, the current draw should be less than 2A if the LED is at 2A. The Vf of the Q5 Cree at 2A should still be below the output voltage of the 18650 with a full charge. Remember, Iin * Vin = Iout * Vout. With two cells in series going to the driver, the current will be half of this, so you will be even better off.
As for LEDs, 2A will not kill the emitters if they are properly heatsinked and they are somewhat cool. Lifetime will be reduced, but it should still last for many thousands of hours. Efficiency will take a hit, but in a super bright, super throwing torch, who cares? (I do not
) Expect somewhere over 300lm at 2A with a Q5. The Q4s produced over 325lm @ 2A according to this article:https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/172379
There will be losses due to heat, the lens, and the reflector, but they are insignificant.
I am constantly impressed by my Rebel 0100 at 2A with the stock 50mm Maglite reflector. My cheaper light meter reads over 20,000 lux at 1 meter (conservatively), and my meter seems to have lower readings with cool colored LEDs. Many with this meter say that their readings are on the low side. With a Q5 and the proper reflector (like yours), you will get a similar satisfaction.
Well, good luck and happy modding! I hope the heatsinking is good enough so you can go through with the mod.
-Tony
65535
Flashlight Enthusiast
Not nearly as long as a pair or even 3 LED's being driven total at that wattage. If you have the space, multiple emitters will last longer and be more efficient. Honestly Lumen maintenance is pathetic at best when severely over the rated current, so you will get large output drops in short amounts of time.
It will last long enough. I highly doubt anyone here has ever used one of their flashlights for 50,000 hrs. Multiple emiters will put out more light when ran at the same total watts but they will not have the same throw if using the same size flashlight.
How long have you driven your Q5s at 2As?
Gee, I wonder who that could be?:nana: It doesn't work with all drivers though. I tried it with one of the 7135 boards and nothing happened. How does the tint of the Rebel hold up at those drive levels?
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
You tried putting one AMC7135 board in parallel with... an LED? :thinking:One of these boards (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256) in parallel with an AMC7135 board?
No. Of course not. Thats crazy talk . I used two of the AMC7135 1400mA Regulated Circuit Boards in parallel with one LED.
One of these boards (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256) in parallel with an AMC7135 board?
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
If you had them connected properly, do you think 2.8A could be the reason "nothing happened"?
Again, crazy talk. They are only 1400mA if you make the right connections on the driver. I did not do this. If memory serves I tried it with them both set up to give 1000mA each. And I used that same LED right after that with the other drivers so I know the LED was OK.If you had them connected properly, do you think 2.8A could be the reason "nothing happened"?
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
So you weren't actually connecting 1400mA boards to the LED in anything except name. :shakehead And you didn't instaflash your LED after trying to feed 2.8 amps into it.
Did you ever think it might be easier to just explain what you were doing?
I just said which boards I used. That is their name. That post was not intended to be an in depth reply about the AMC7135 boards. All you need to know is it does not work. Give me a little credit for knowing the difference between a bad driver setup and a blown LED.So you weren't actually connecting 1400mA boards to the LED in anything except name. :shakehead And you didn't instaflash your LED after trying to feed 2.8 amps into it.
Did you ever think it might be easier to just explain what you were doing?
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Great, I've misunderstood you again, then, because I thought you said you hadn't connected them properly. But if they were connected properly I don't see what difference connecting three or four of them in parallel will have to connecting six in parallel, apart from the total current. The AMC7135 does work in parallel, and hence the 700mA, 1050mA, and 1400mA boards. Do you have any ideas yourself why you were unable to get them to work?
I was talking about the AMC7135 as complete boards not about the individual chips. I'm sure you could find a way to make it work by connecting the chips from one board to another. I however was just was just connecting the inputs together and the outputs together so the BOARDS would be parallel. This is the same thing I did for the other boards mentioned in this thread and it worked beautifully for them. If you think you can make two of these AMC7135 boards work together please let me know how you do it.
Wow thanks for the info guys i go away for the weekend and poof all sorts of replys.
I considered using the boards listed above http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256 because you get three for like what 6 bucks and they are in th right amp range but i was leaning toward trying http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612 because it is a multi mode board and i like the idea of having full blinding 2A when i want it but also of having a usable 200ma and 700ma output when needed. the only problem i have with the board is that its 3.6 only so i will have to come up with a way to run the 18650 in Parallel to increase run time
does anyone know of a board that would offer similar features but a higher voltage range?
16 mode driver circuit board for CREE / SSC LEDs
- 17mm circuit board base diameter
- Powered by 3 x 7135 IC's
- 1000mA 3.7V output
- 16-mode consolidated into 3 groups:
i really only need number 1,2,or 3 i mean the strobes are fun and given the choice i would go with Low (10%) - Mid (35%) - High (100%) - Special Police Type Strobe - Slow Strobe (3Hz) - Super Slow Strobe (1Hz) - SOS but for this light its not a top priority
thanks!!!!
I considered using the boards listed above http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256 because you get three for like what 6 bucks and they are in th right amp range but i was leaning toward trying http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7612 because it is a multi mode board and i like the idea of having full blinding 2A when i want it but also of having a usable 200ma and 700ma output when needed. the only problem i have with the board is that its 3.6 only so i will have to come up with a way to run the 18650 in Parallel to increase run time
does anyone know of a board that would offer similar features but a higher voltage range?
16 mode driver circuit board for CREE / SSC LEDs
- 17mm circuit board base diameter
- Powered by 3 x 7135 IC's
- 1000mA 3.7V output
- 16-mode consolidated into 3 groups:
- Low (10%) - Mid (35%) - High (100%) - Strobe - SOS
- Low (10%) - Mid (35%) - High (100%)
- Low (10%) - Mid (35%) - High (100%) - Special Police Type Strobe - Slow Strobe (3Hz) - Super Slow Strobe (1Hz) - SOS
i really only need number 1,2,or 3 i mean the strobes are fun and given the choice i would go with Low (10%) - Mid (35%) - High (100%) - Special Police Type Strobe - Slow Strobe (3Hz) - Super Slow Strobe (1Hz) - SOS but for this light its not a top priority thanks!!!!
LukeA
Flashlight Enthusiast
So you weren't actually connecting 1400mA boards to the LED in anything except name. :shakehead And you didn't instaflash your LED after trying to feed 2.8 amps into it.
Did you ever think it might be easier to just explain what you were doing?
You don't instaflash LEDs with high current.
TorchBoy
Flashlight Enthusiast
Like I said, I don't see why it wouldn't work, so I'll give it a go a bit later. Does a single AMC7135 on each of two boards sound OK? I think that would prove the principle.
You're not the only person looking for such a board. (I've chimed in on the odd driver search thread recently.) I haven't seen any other suggestions. But if you don't mind a bit of soldering I had the idea of using a Kennan from KD and replacing the set resistor with three different resistors operated by a multiposition switch. It would give you three different fixed-current settings plus off, and cope with anything from about 5V (to drive an LED at 3.6V) up to 18V.
You mean you don't, right?
:sigh: (Or are you arguing the toss about whether it's current or voltage that does it? 
)
