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Thread: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

  1. #781

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Quote Originally Posted by 5S8Zh5 View Post
    After unscrewing my green G2 Nitrolon, the switch popped out also. This one was purchased maybe a decade or two ago, and with a newer black G2 Nitrolon the switch seems liked it's glued in there. Is it suppose to be secure / glued?
    Your green G2 must be of the very old batch. Its switch internal DOES pop out. The tailcap host's opening is also a bit shorter than that with the modern twisty mechanism.

    Unfortunately there's nothing you can do with the green G2 tailcap host as no clicky upgrades can be fitted. The black G2's tailcap, OTOH, seems to have a proper twisty switch mechanism which can be replaced by the standard Z41 McClicky upgrade. The twisty internal is held by a jam nut (rivet) and only the Delrin retainer ring behind the aluminum block may be glued; but with some effort the entire twisty internals can be taken out without damage whatsoever.

  2. #782
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    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    I've tried to take the switch out of both my 6P and G2 but can't get them to turn. I've got a clicky replacement that's just sitting in the box...been there for years...

  3. #783

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Quote Originally Posted by flatline View Post
    I've tried to take the switch out of both my 6P and G2 but can't get them to turn. I've got a clicky replacement that's just sitting in the box...been there for years...

    Have you tried a dip in boiling water first? That has taken care of every glued flashlight assembly I've tried it on (although to be fair there are a few I didn't try).

  4. #784

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Quote Originally Posted by flatline View Post
    I've tried to take the switch out of both my 6P and G2 but can't get them to turn. I've got a clicky replacement that's just sitting in the box...been there for years...
    You can't get the aluminum block(s) to "turn"; you need to use proper nose pliers to pull the core out. Takes practice in controlling the force, but absolutely doable (I only got to refine this particular procedure a year or so ago). Do wrap the plier tips with masking tape before proceeding, so as to minimize tool mark damage on the aluminum core..

    Some instructions here:
    https://www.oveready.com/resources/m...-instructions/

    If you want to do it the easier way, you can start from the boot side. If however you'd like to preserve the stock boot, then do this: use proper lubrication (eg. CorrosionX) and apply it to the boot and its vicinity. Doesn't matter if the lube seeps into the chassis thru the boot (actually that would even help slide the boot out). Once the part(s) are wet enough, lightly soak out the excess lube (use tissue paper), then use your fingers to slowly nudge the boot out. Again, be very careful and also use tissue paper for added grip. Eventually the boot would come out from the boot-side bore and (hopefully) without damage.

    (Note: if your tailcap is held not by a rivet (jam nut) but instead a Hex screw, use the proper Hex wrench to undo that screw. No need to do the hammering from the boot side.)

    Once done, use a pick to hammer out the internals from the boot side opening. The internal core should come out without issue. Then, clean the internal threads (pref. with acetone) to remove any dirt, gunk etc. After that, use the nose pliers to sputter out the remaining Delrin retainer ring. This is where the procedure may trip a lot of people, as the ring concern may appear glued. Which is why cleaning the threads with acetone would help, to increase the chances of loosening up the thread glue. Alternatively, freezing the remaining tailcap host chassis for 25-30 minutes would also help pop the Delrin ring out.

    Once you've gutted the tailcap assy, reclean the internal threads with soap water, acetone etc. Use a brush to clean out the threads as much as possible. Once the host is clean, relubricate the inside threads, and let it dry. Then you can start installing the Z41 McClicky upgrade.

    Additionally on the G2 tailcap chassis, be extra careful with the aforementioned steps, as the plastic tailcap host could break easier than the normal Z44 variant.

    Hope these instructions help...

  5. #785

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Just smack the old switch with a hammer and it pops out.

  6. #786
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    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    AW gives a good description for removing 6P tail cap switches for his soft start switch. Here https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...=1#post2709689

    Bill

  7. #787

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bullzeyebill View Post
    AW gives a good description for removing 6P tail cap switches for his soft start switch.
    Actually I've followed that instructions on Z41 disassembly for years but the results varied depending on the individual host to be worked on. For me the failure rates (ie. the chances of damaging and marring any component inside) were quite high

    The way the aluminum block needs to be clamped and pulled out didn't seem to be explained appropriately in AW's instructions. A lot of experience and discovery is to be expected when the modder repeats the same switch disassembly task from time to time. And now I know the aluminum block needs to be gripped firmly by its perimeter before applying any force to pull it out, bit by bit.

    And once I get used to this revised method I find less need to go back to the "hammering from the boot side" route -- as the chances of damaging the stock boot are still high.
    Last edited by yazkaz; 05-20-2020 at 01:26 AM.

  8. #788
    ven's Avatar
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    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Every one i have done, long nose pliers, grip tail cap and pull centre out. Most plastic rings have come out relatively easy. I found the g2 and g2z a little bit of a pain. So i softened it up in a mug of hot water(inside a bag). One of the little ****** had to be pretty much destroyed to remove(in bits, breaking off until it came out).

  9. #789

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    My solution: 6P with G2 Nitrolon head, Malkoff M61NLLLL, Oveready hardpress McClicky tailcap, and Keepower 2500 mAh 16650.


  10. #790

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    A 6P with an M61LLLL (regardless of tint) is a mighty fine lighting tool.
    John 3:16

  11. #791
    Administrator Kestrel's Avatar
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    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    Quote Originally Posted by 5S8Zh5 View Post
    My solution: 6P with G2 Nitrolon head, Malkoff M61NLLLL, Oveready hardpress McClicky tailcap, and Keepower 2500 mAh 16650.
    All hail the mighty SF LEGO.

  12. #792
    Flashaholic* Toohotruk's Avatar
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    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?


  13. #793

    Default Re: Why is the SureFire 6P so good?

    To me it is good because it has no dark spots and the color reproduction is great since it has an incandescent bulb.

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