Surefire L5 mods

Steve Curtis

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
132
Location
UK but soon to be New York
Hi guys ,

I'm very interested in the L5 but wondered if anyone is currently modding them with a more efficient LED.

I want to cost the project before i look elsewhere for a new double 123 powered general use light .

many thanks
 

Greg G

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
772
Hi guys ,

I'm very interested in the L5 but wondered if anyone is currently modding them with a more efficient LED.

I want to cost the project before i look elsewhere for a new double 123 powered general use light .

many thanks

I have an L5. I have bored the body to accept a 18650 battery, and replaced the emitter with a Seoul P-4 USWOH. I'm trying to decide on which driver/battery config to go with next. I have a Sandwich Shoppe GD 1000 buck/boost driver that I can use with the single 18650, or I can put in an SOB 1000 buck driver (that I also have) and make an extension for the body so I can run 2x 18650's in it. Leef has a single 1x 18650 C tailcap/E head body that I can machine on my lathe to fit as an extension. That would give me a longer runtime. That's the way I'm leaning.

Leef has a 2x 18650 body for an L5, but I'd rather just add an extension to the existing light so that I have the flexibilty of quickly switching back to running 2x 123's or 1x 18650.
 
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Steve Curtis

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
132
Location
UK but soon to be New York
Greg G

sounds very interesting but a little past my technical capability if I'm totally honest with you .

At the moment I'm thinking I may be better off using my M2 and dropping in BOG Q5 super mega premium and running Cr123's.

If i decide to go with the L5 option i may well be in touch for some tech info....


all the best
Steve
 

Greg G

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 17, 2007
Messages
772
The Seoul P4 drops right in that light. Just pop out the Lux V and scrape the epoxy off the base for it without damaging the anodizing. Then use a small amout of Arctic Alumina epoxy to glue the Seoul in. Press it in good to squeeze out any excess. The heatsink (if you can call it that) centers the P4 perfectly. After the epoxy has cured solder the leads onto the emitter. I'm going to turn a heatsink on my lathe out of some copper or aluminum to add to the emitter base for the SOB 1000. I'm told that the stock Surefire driver is 660ma. The extra heat I'm going to generate will likely need some heatsinking to keep everything running cool.
 
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