Searching for specific AA Led

Hi all,

Sorry to bother you flashoholics with these questions but there is so much information on this forum that it takes ages to gather the right information. I'm looking for advise on my specific requirement and I hope someone has some spare time to help me out.

I'm one of the original group buyers for the Fenix L1P, way back when they didn't have a proper store yet so I have been reading here in those days and I know how a good Led feels and how extremely handy an EDC with a lot of light is. I use(d) it on a daily basis. Unfortunately one died on me and the other I always have to fix because the internals of the tailcap loosen themselves. (any solution to both problems btw?)

The light I need is a 1 AA (nothing else and I will use rechargables alkaline mostly). A small bright EDC with adjustable levels (high to find my way or to blind someone, medium for close up work, real low for use when the power is out again), no turbo or fancy things. SOS etc I can do myself if needed.

The fenix L1D CE seems to fit the bill, but it's bigger than some of its competitors (even bigger than my L1P which I find the limit at 91 mm). There is a Photon Pro with a red led and an amazing claim brightness wise and there are numerous others. But which to buy?

It must be sturdy, have a good finish because I wear it daily in my pockets next to my keys, have an easy interface (preferably not going through clicking sequences so that I'm blinded before I find the medium setting), be able to stand on it's tail and be durable.

Please advise as I studied the site for hours now and still am a bit clueless. Thanks in advance. Oh and I live in Spain so either easily available or buyable at a good webshop with decent international s/h prices.

I would think the Fenix L1D fits your needs pretty well.

Here's a link to my multi-AA round-up review: Rebel, Cree, SSC Multi-Stage 1AA Review: RUNTIMES and BEAMSHOTS

If you want to compare the various Fenix heads (including the L1T), see here:
Fenix Rebel vs Cree: L1D/L1T/P2D OUTPUT, RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS!

You might also want to consider the olight T-15. I don't have one yet to compare, but it is on order.

Aside from that, the EDGETAC NiteCore Defender Infinity is all the rage around here now. But you would be hard pressed to find one, since the entire initial production run is now shipping, and the distributors (e.g. TadGear) don't have any stock yet for the full commercial release. See my sig for a link to that review.

max3d said:

Hi all,

Unfortunately one died on me and the other I always have to fix because the internals of the tailcap loosen themselves. (any solution to both problems btw?)

Click to expand...

The loosening is sortable quite easily with a SMALL amount of clear nail varnish on the threads. Since the switch probably relies on the hold-down ring to conduct electricity, so don't cover it in the stuff. Use as much as you can get on the end of a straightened paper clip.

Nail varnish is cheaper and gives a joint that can still be broken - a big advance over many threadlock compounds. Alternatively, tighten it and then glop epoxy over it so it won't ever move again (Bad idea IMO)

This will work just fine if you have the usual problem of the retaining ring coming loose. If it is something else it may not do any good.

Well, you can modify your L1P with a suitable driver and LED if you figure out the problem.

Then you will keep the light that you are used to.

The Jetbeam CL-E V2.0 might be what you are looking for.

dulridge said:

The loosening is sortable quite easily with a SMALL amount of clear nail varnish on the threads. Since the switch probably relies on the hold-down ring to conduct electricity, so don't cover it in the stuff. Use as much as you can get on the end of a straightened paper clip.

Nail varnish is cheaper and gives a joint that can still be broken - a big advance over many threadlock compounds. Alternatively, tighten it and then glop epoxy over it so it won't ever move again (Bad idea IMO)

This will work just fine if you have the usual problem of the retaining ring coming loose. If it is something else it may not do any good.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice. English is not my first language so I'm not sure what the retaining ring is. There is a part in the tail end which I have to screw back into on an almost daily basis. There are two small holes in it so I have to use a very small pencil to do it.

The other one went completely dead. Not sure what caused it.

selfbuilt said:

I would think the Fenix L1D fits your needs pretty well.

Here's a link to my multi-AA round-up review: Rebel, Cree, SSC Multi-Stage 1AA Review: RUNTIMES and BEAMSHOTS

If you want to compare the various Fenix heads (including the L1T), see here:
Fenix Rebel vs Cree: L1D/L1T/P2D OUTPUT, RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS!

You might also want to consider the olight T-15. I don't have one yet to compare, but it is on order.

Aside from that, the EDGETAC NiteCore Defender Infinity is all the rage around here now. But you would be hard pressed to find one, since the entire initial production run is now shipping, and the distributors (e.g. TadGear) don't have any stock yet for the full commercial release. See my sig for a link to that review.

Click to expand...

I will have a look into these. Thanks for the links. The L1D is as stated even bigger than my current (old) Fenix and I really find that the limit.

Gunner12 said:

Well, you can modify your L1P with a suitable driver and LED if you figure out the problem.

Then you will keep the light that you are used to.

The Jetbeam CL-E V2.0 might be what you are looking for.

Click to expand...

For the dead L1P this could be a great solution. Can you point me to a shop where I can be a replacement driver and Led. Will it be adjustable then, because that's the main shortcoming of the current Fenix: just one level so too bright for close up work.

Use the tailcap in your dead light in the other one.
L1P tailcaps are sold here:
https://www.fenix-store.com/product_info.php?cPath=27_40&products_id=219
Note the tailcap is $12 and CPF8 discount code only works for >$20 orders.

Lighthound still has the Civictor. The Civictor head is interchangeable with the L1P. They also have Lxx tailcap.

If size is a problem look at AAA lights.
Twisty - Fenix L0D CE L0D Q4 Christmas special.
Clicky - Avenger or Microstream
The old Fenix Luxeon L0P SE and L0D are on clearance at fenix store. CLEARANCE25 get you an additional 25% off.

Hi All,

I reviewed all your helpfull links and learned a lot.
The comparison between all the AA lights was extremely helpfull and I learned a lot from that. I now tend to go with the JetBeam C-LE V2 as it seems to be exactly what I'm looking for and has a decent medium mode (meaning not too birght). However s/h at the recommended shop is 26$ so if you know another store I would love to hear it as maybe I order some other stuff as well.

I will also look into the spare/replacement parts for my L1P as I grew attached to them and they can function as backup lights. Does anyone remember how they would compare throw wise and brightness wise with the Jetbeam C-LE V2. Due to all the different measurement techniques it's hard to compare.

I'm also looking for a three AA light which can function as a last line of defense in case of need as I need to cross very unpopulated areas. I know D-cells are heavier, but I want a bright light and easy replacements and I always have AA recharged on stock. Anything advisable; preferably because of the high shpping costs in the same shop where they sell the Jetbeam?

I link to a few cheaper multimode and LED but first I'll have to know the driver size of the L1P(around 15mm is my guess).

max3d said:

Thanks for the advice. English is not my first language so I'm not sure what the retaining ring is. There is a part in the tail end which I have to screw back into on an almost daily basis. There are two small holes in it so I have to use a very small pencil to do it.

The other one went completely dead. Not sure what caused it.

Click to expand...

The thing you are screwing back in is the retaining ring. You probably need something made of metal to get it in tight enough. You could try screwing it in good and tight (Make sure the switch operates correctly after tightening - some won't work properly if too tight) then using glue to hold it in permanently, or using nail varnish so you can remove it again if you need to.

Have you seen or heard of the Extreme II? A single AA, NiCD, NiMH or alkaline with four modes. Low Med high and SOS. Always reverting back to low so you know where you'll be, setting wise, when first on.

Nothing out there can touch the Maxlite Extreme for being a single AA Flashlight. Though the Extreme II is smaller, it comes close and it meets all your requirements. (I don't own any Fenix so I can't compare the Extreme II size to one)


Njoy...

dulridge said:

The thing you are screwing back in is the retaining ring. You probably need something made of metal to get it in tight enough. You could try screwing it in good and tight (Make sure the switch operates correctly after tightening - some won't work properly if too tight) then using glue to hold it in permanently, or using nail varnish so you can remove it again if you need to.

Click to expand...

Thanks for explaining. My wife doesn't use nail varnish (or so she claims ) so maybe I'll just glue it.

qarawol said:

Have you seen or heard of the Extreme II? A single AA, NiCD, NiMH or alkaline with four modes. Low Med high and SOS. Always reverting back to low so you know where you'll be, setting wise, when first on.

Nothing out there can touch the Maxlite Extreme for being a single AA Flashlight. Though the Extreme II is smaller, it comes close and it meets all your requirements. (I don't own any Fenix so I can't compare the Extreme II size to one)


Njoy...

Click to expand...

Thanks for pointing it out, but too expensive for my EDC. I really use it on a daily basis and have mislaid it already once to my dismay. Wouldn't like to loose such an expensive one.

Gunner12 said:

I link to a few cheaper multimode and LED but first I'll have to know the driver size of the L1P(around 15mm is my guess).

Click to expand...

I followed your earlier suggestion and exchanged parts between the two L1P's. It's now clear that the head is not functioning. I would like to replace it if it's not too expensive. I have read the https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/113371 explainiation here but without pictures it's hard to follow. Bascially it looks like the driver circuit is soldered to the casing. It doesn't seem possible to access the circuits inside the head as I don't see how to get a grip on the internals.

The diameter of the head seems to be 19-20 mm, but I guess that's not what you mean.

IIRC, the board is around 16mm wide. I don't know how deep.

If you don't mind shipping taking a month, these boards would work:
20 mode(can be shorted to a single mode driver, highest output and lowest low)
5 mode(You'll probably have to trim it)
Seoul P4 U bin

I think the pill and the body are two parts, but since they are both Al, it might seem like one single part.