Made my Fenix L2D skid-proof

this was probably covered quite a few times before, but for those who are still interested in it, here is a picture of my L2D mod, done today:



I always thought that the surface of this lamp (as well as my L1D and my P2D) is to smooth to have a really comfortable grip on it. after reading another thread were a guy suggested plasti-dip spray I gave that a try but found the results rather sub omptimal. the plastik-dip coating gives good grip, but peels off way to easy and wouldn't certainly last very long. IMO its good for coating things which don't get touched all the time but not for a heavily used flashlight.

anyway, I will try out how long this anti-slip-tape will last, seems to sit and fit fairly tight now. I carry this lamp in its original holster, thats why I didn't wrap tape around the head, it wouldn't slip in and out easy because the tapes surface is pretty rough. the tape by the way is 0.6 mm thick, so the lamps diameter increases only by 1.2 mm.


regards, holger

Are those the type used on floor/ladders? They can take your skin off fast if you are not careful.

jzmtl said:

Are those the type used on floor/ladders? They can take your skin off fast if you are not careful.

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That sure looks like the floor skid tape. My dad works in a school and we had to do the 40 some odd stairs to the gym, entrance stairs in lobby about 6 stairs, then about 3 more sets of 6 stairs. I can vouge for the skin removal, not very fun.

That's not going to go in and out the holster easily.

I put a piece of heatshrink on my P3D and it makes a big difference. And it's not even a mm.

cat said:

That's not going to go in and out the holster easily.

I put a piece of heatshrink on my P3D and it makes a big difference. And it's not even a mm.

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its not the size(girth) your adding to the light...it has a rough surface so that means it wont slide in the elastic fenix holster too well because it causes too much friction

cat said:

That's not going to go in and out the holster easily.

I put a piece of heatshrink on my P3D and it makes a big difference. And it's not even a mm.

Click to expand...

daimleramg said:

its not the size(girth) your adding to the light...it has a rough surface so that means it wont slide in the elastic fenix holster too well because it causes too much friction

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right, thats why I left the head untaped. the rest of the body (as it is smaller in diameter) will slip just fine into the holster.

@ a4d and jzmtl,

the tape is pretty rough indeed, yes its like kind of a sand paper, but honestly I can't think of one scenario under regular circumstances where it could take off your skin, unless a woman would use it as a substitute for...uh, well I guess you know what I mean....


regards, holger

Not bad looking.


Wish someone would make a run of 1xAA and 2xAA tubes with real checkering. Would it be that hard with a NC lathe ?

Where can you find some scateboarding tape?

etc said:

Where can you find some scateboarding tape?

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I found mine in a hardware store.


regards, holger

I almost bought some of that tape (it's called safety tape at Lowe's, in the glass-cutting area) but ended up trying the Plasti-dip spray instead (that was also in stock at Lowe's). The first application the covering pulled up with the masking tape, so I removed it and left a small gap and put much less on at one time in several applications, waiting 30 minutes between applications. I carefully removed the masking tape after I was sure it was dry. Screwed the tailcap and head back on, and it gives a great grip and seems to me like it will last, but I'm not sure yet. Don't know how it would be in a holster in terms of durability. In retrospect, it might be a good idea to take the tape off BEFORE the stuff dries, since it was the dried material to the tape that made it pull up. Anyway, so far so good with the Plasti-dip spray.