Flashlight for hypothetical cases

I have my Fenix T1 and I really like it. I like the prongy tailcap. I was wondering about the case when someone drives off into a lake, and has to get out. I saw an episode on mythbusters about that. I was thinking that the T1 is perfect for breaking your window in the case of an accident like that, in order to get out. The T1 is also bright enough to be useful under water, and it's waterproof to a certain depth.

Does anyone else have recommendations on EDC style flashlights that can be used in this case.

I'd try it first before relying on it - car windows are TOUGH to break. The escape hammers that do the job have a point on them to concentrate their strike to a very small area.

Any light (possibly excepting an HID with it's high voltage electronics) should work underwater for at least a little while.

Aluminum bezel teeth would likley deform after few impacts with modern shatter resistant glass and fill the light with water. This bezel would take car of many windows though! http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3079 The T1 bezel teeth are steel but are they pointy or sharp?

I think this guy could manage to try harder, but think of you inside trying it while you are sinking in water. The mass of a larger mag alone is ineffective, steel teeth will help a little but I think you are underestimating the glass. Stick an awl punch in your car console - that will break the window and serve as a great fist pack should you need it.
http://tw.youtube.com/watch?v=t0903OliIqE&NR=1

I remember when we were kids, trying to bust the back window of some junked car. While window glass was probably thicker back then, I remember being amazed that a bunch of us had absolutely no luck at all, even with a metal bar.

I do think you need something purpose-built. As mentioned, ending in a very sharp tip. Not only that, but very hard. Aluminum won't do at all. Something along the lines of Tungsten Carbide. The hard point will initiate the break. And the mass behind it should be substantial, solid and unmoving. Most of the weight in a large light is from batteries, and those are supported at the ends by springs, and at the sides by airspace and a thin deformable metal shell. While it sure hurts to get hit upside the head with one, these things are lessening the impact quite a bit.

In short, if you're worried about having to bust out a window, keep a tool made for the purpose.

Here's a page that has a tool for breaking windows, cutting seatbelts, and even has a flashlight built in. That's a lot different than a flashlight that was built with no thought of the other tasks.

http://www.georgiadisasterreliefsupply.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=2

Spring center punch. Or purpose built hammer.

lambo supposedly has a glass breaker on its shift knob. the scissors doors are a bad design which can't open upside down. i've seen pics of a charred couple from a flipped lambo.:green:

you can use a spark plug. hit with the ceramic part.

I've seen a crime-reporter public awareness video where a small bearing thrown forcefully would shatter the side window to allow a quick grab of items in the passenger seat. It's the very hard steel, concentrated on a small impact area that does the trick even though it was only an ounce and thrown by hand.
Hopefully the 12-inch crowbar from the $1 store I keep in the floor of my vehicle will do the trick if needed. At least I could use it to carefully pry open damaged doors of other cars, which I think will be a more likely event to encounter on the deserted, deer populated roads I drive. Are genuine firefighter rescue prybars made of non-sparking metal I wonder? And do they issue those spring-loaded punches to LEO's?

Just remember if you're under water, it's very hard to swing. So you won't have hardly any momentum.

RebelXTNC said:

Are genuine firefighter rescue prybars made of non-sparking metal I wonder?

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No. Power spreaders, metal cutting saws, air chisels are all good old steel, and lots of it

And don't forget the axe!

RebelXTNC said:

I've seen a crime-reporter public awareness video where a small bearing thrown forcefully would shatter the side window to allow a quick grab of items in the passenger seat. It's the very hard steel, concentrated on a small impact area that does the trick even though it was only an ounce and thrown by hand.
Hopefully the 12-inch crowbar from the $1 store I keep in the floor of my vehicle will do the trick if needed. At least I could use it to carefully pry open damaged doors of other cars, which I think will be a more likely event to encounter on the deserted, deer populated roads I drive. Are genuine firefighter rescue prybars made of non-sparking metal I wonder? And do they issue those spring-loaded punches to LEO's?

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To your two questions...yes and yes...but alot of the "professional" knife makers (benchmade/Surefire), are starting to put the carbide tipped window punches on the end of their knives...which would be in your pocket, and not your glove box...I think the SF one might be spring loaded as well? But, on the subject, I don't think there are any real flashlights out there to speak of that would break a car window under-water...

Here's my 2 cents -
Don't drive off into a lake.
Dave

GilmoreD said:

Here's my 2 cents -
Don't drive off into a lake.
Dave

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Awww, man, you suck all the fun out of life. Driving a car into a lake is way fun. :thumbsup:

Seriously, finding yourself inside a sinking car in a lake or river is called an "accident", and as such, you may very well be hurt if you're lucky enough to be concious.
The ONLY practical tool to have is a spring loaded center punch because it's the lightest and smallest option meaning that you can keep in tucked snugly in a small space you can easily reach without having to reach far (center console is best, NOT the glove box waaaay over there on the right side).
The other reason the SLCP is the best break-out tool is because it takes the least amount of force and space to use it. Just hold it against the glass and push until it snaps. That's important because, as I said, you might be hurt and too weak to swing anything, AND, the car may be damaged in some way where you couldn't get much of a "swing" on anything if you wanted to.

I carry one in my RV7 (aircraft) for those very reasons in case I have to exit and go through the canopy if I find myself inadvertantly upside down (hey, it happens... hopefully, never to me )

I agree on the spring loaded center punch.
I had the opportunity to break some car windows yesterday...
I under handed trew an aluminum gear(15 lbs) at the back window of a car...
It bounced off the first time...(I was trying to not make a mess that I would have to clean up...)
On one of the side windows - I hit it with a piece of steel tube...it bounced off several times...I was surprised how hard I had to hit it...
I am sure a solid bar would have made a BIG difference...