Another way to get the darn Fenix L1P pill out

Finally getting around to putting a Seoul into my original L1P, and following the usual advice to just heat the head (I use a hot air gun), needle nose pliers, and strap wrenches. That darn epoxy was just too much, and I was gouging the brass slots and moving the pill very little. So I hit on this. Went to the hardware store for a copper water pipe sleeve of the right size, drilled holes into it. Soldered it from the inside to the back of the pill. There's already solder holding the circuit board to the brass pill, so I added more. Bingo, a long rod (aka a screwdriver shaft) through the holes gave me all the torque I needed.







Now, warning: I have a good vacuum desoldering tool to undo this.
Put my SSC P4 USVOH in there and it's a champ with no other mods!

Do you think it's worth the effort of modding an L1p? There are those MTE lights now that are basically L1p clones with Seouls at around $15 a pop.

Regardless if it's worth it or not, I love the ingenuity. Bravo!

I've had my own battles with Fenix lights and I love the solution. Where were you 2 months ago?

Cheers,
Eidolen

BTW, that technique is not limited to the L1P.

I agree with eidolen whether it's worth or not, you have come up with a unique solution to the problem . Well done.
Norm

I think I'd worry about ripping the trace loose from the board.

LOL! Practical? I think I paid $45USD for this when they first came out! It's the challenge! Anyway, I'm converting everything I have with old Luxeons to SSCs.

The tube solders to the brass pill rim, it's solid as a rock.

That is an awesome tip! Thank you. I have been removing the circuit board, and using the wire holes (near the LED) to get a grip for removing the pill. If I do another L1P, or L2T, etc., I'll use your method and see if I get the same results as you did.

Very clever, thanks louie!

Great idea Louie! I'll have to try that on the next L1P I mod.

What kind of solder is needed to take this much shear stress? I always thought solder only allows things to stay in place and really can not support a component, let alone allow that much of twisting torque.

- Vikas

Brilliant! Thanks for sharing this one!

Paul

Vikas Sontakke said:

What kind of solder is needed to take this much shear stress? I always thought solder only allows things to stay in place and really can not support a component, let alone allow that much of twisting torque.

- Vikas

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Standard 60/40 electronic solder. I built up the 4 globs of solder on the inside and did a thorough fillet inside the tube. It was very strong - water pipes are held together quite well this way. I have a powerful temperature controlled Pace soldering handpiece. I am also glad to have a Pace vacuum desoldering handpiece to undo this. It might be very difficult otherwise. Afterwards, I resolder the circuit board and filed the solder back down flush with the brass pill, just as Fenix appears to do.

louie: What do you use to grip the head while you unscrew the pill? I've found it difficult finding something to grip the outside tightly enough without scratching the finish. I'm also afraid of crushing the tube as well. Also, do you still apply heat to loosen it up?

I used a cheap Harbor Freight 3/4 inch strap wrench, and did no damage, but did have to grip it very tightly. Wrapping the tube in thin rubber may help. After multiple heatings previously with the plier technique, the pill was moving so I figured the glue was broken, but still very sticky. I was smoothing out the notches when the pliers slipped and I was worried I would slip and gouge the tube, and could no longer budge the pill. After attaching this copper tube, I did not heat any more, but could now work the pill back and forth to loosen it up and then all the way out. The handiest tool I had for the holes was a long handled allen wrench. Heating initially is probably good, but I THINK I noticed some pinholes develop on the reflector.

Thanks again for sharing louie!

Nice work buddy and DAMN your hands are almost as dry as chimo's

Great idea! Sure beats drilling two holes in the circuit board for pliers (and ruining the driver in the process).

-YC

You're awesome! I had the same problem with trying to remove the pill and now thanks to you I will be able to remove and mod my trustee old l2p.

Thanks!

I've been unsuccessfully trying to get the pill out of a Fenix L1S. I've tried heating it up, but all I've accomplished so far is to bend my pliers and carve a line across the battery contact when the pliers slipped (it still works).

I'm now looking into using this method, but I have a question: I have a soldering station whose maximum temperature is about 450 °C (840 °F)... will this be enough to solder to copper tubing?

Fallingwater said:

I've been unsuccessfully trying to get the pill out of a Fenix L1S. I've tried heating it up, but all I've accomplished so far is to bend my pliers and carve a line across the battery contact when the pliers slipped (it still works).

I'm now looking into using this method, but I have a question: I have a soldering station whose maximum temperature is about 450 °C (840 °F)... will this be enough to solder to copper tubing?

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I think it depends on your technique and the wattage your soldering station is able to deliver, not so much on temperature. The mass of a copper tube may be too great for a few low-wattage soldering irons. I would guess any iron of 30 watts or more should be fine, assuming a skillful technique.