What would be perfect for me.

techwg · Jan 4, 2008

I would love a P3D Q5 with a little more metal in it to deal with heat, mode selection via head twist, and a surefire tactical style switch for indestructability. While i love both my CE and Q5 P3D's, i would like to have more faith in the switches. I never abuse my lights, never have, but i would not like to mess with a switch and have it break on me. My G2's switch seems so simple it could never break. Anyone know of a light that i could get in the UK that would give me lower and high modes with an indestructible UI ? Clickies i think may not be the best way. I would go with a surefire 6P, but i dont get the ability i need with incans, and the modules have no good UI for a flashlight with that kind of switch. The surefire official led version and dropin are not bright enough. But i dont want to be tied down to only highest power.

Also, how hard is it to break a Fenix switch? What exactly would it take.

Derek Dean · Jan 4, 2008

Have you considered the new HDS twisty, 3 level light. Their motto is "The flashlight that gets you home".

http://www.hdssystems.com/Twisty.html

It should become available around the end of January or early February.

techwg · Jan 4, 2008

Looks ok, however i dont like twisty lights, im looking for more of a surefire momentary on style with twist for constant on. The twist i mentioned would be the best way to change modes i think, so that the button can remain a momentary. Nothing worse than putting a dropin in a G2, and have it melt because of heat, or it keep changing mode every time your flashing it on and off lol. I would buy a Surefire 6P-L if it had a brighter LED, say a Q5, and would last for 4 hours, while being regulated. Alass they are too expencive (surefire) and they only do 80 lumensfor 3 hours if your lucky.

Derek Dean · Jan 4, 2008

Well, what about buying one of the older Surefire 6P lights, and then adding something like a Dereelight drop-in?

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=170818

You would have a nice solid host, and you could pick whether you wanted 2 or 3 levels depending on which drop-in you select.

techwg · Jan 4, 2008

Yes, the only problem is cost, because i usually only spend maximum £50 on a flashlight, and when i do, im broke for a long time (i dont have a highly paid job). If i were to buy a 6P and a drop in, i would be talking about over £90, and thats the kind of saving up i cant do lol. If there was a place in the USA that sold new different high power lights, with kind of spec i look for, that ships to UK reasonably, and takes paypal. With the dollar so weak right now, i may be able to pull off a bargain, only worry factor is if its not right sending it back costs alot more in total than i planned on

I feel so bashed when it comes to looking for non fenix flashlights. I cant seem to find anything. I dont want to get a 6P and a cheap dropin, because then i would be at the mercy of the weakest link in the chain (dropin workmanship). So puzzled

Boomerang · Jan 4, 2008

http://www.amilite.co.kr/

Neo T5 * 2

Andy

Marduke · Jan 4, 2008

The Fenix T1 has been taking quite a bit of abuse and surviving.

yellow · Jan 4, 2008

I would buy a Surefire 6P-L if it had a brighter LED, say a Q5, and would last for 4 hours, while being regulated.

You will not see any difference between whatever is used (what is used?) and a Q5, because the current makes the difference:
a light sized like a 6P can give about 2-2.5 hours of 1 A to the led and then it will be astoundingly bright.
If someone wants longer runtime --> less bright.
difference of a Cree P4 to a Q5 at lower currents is almost not to spot. A better reflector for the P4 and the Q5 is worse in comparison.

as to Your cons to the P3D: the only thing can to changed is the reverse clicky! With anything else, You are wrong imho.
Because You dont need more metal thanks to the blood of Your hand while holding the light, or the airflow when used on bike handlebars, who are more than efficient enough to move the heat away.
Also it is already a "head twistie" level cooser (how often does anyone has to type this again and again ...

)

Only thing to end up with what You want, is to mod an existing light. An Inova T1 f.e., or even a 6P (more space, so easier). Make Your own "pill", with a massive sink, press-fit into the light (short and direct heat path is bad in any led insert I am aware of)
Will not offer the head twistie, but with a driver like the Flupic, thats what You might have in mind.
(with the Inova, You will have to change the switch with another one, f.e. from a Streamlight Scorpion, because the original switch is so-so)

PS: if You are doing this, than do the full thing and have the body milled to put an 18650 into the light --> way better power source

techwg · Jan 4, 2008

I know that longer runtime = less brightness. If i understand, you say i could change the click from reverse click, to what? Yes the P3D Q5 has a twist only to choose from high power/strobe or the lower power modes, it is not just solely a twist selector, meaning i could not add a tactical momentary switch because it would want to switch modes.

I cant modify anything because i dont have the resources or money, i am a guy who buys what does the job, im not into modding since i simply cant do it.

Basically

, all i want is my P3D with more metal, and an unbreakable switch (momentary sf style) modes would be nice, but as long as its efficient and is bright enough (100lm+) and lasts long enough, i could edc backup a P3D Q5 along with.

yellow said:
You will not see any difference between whatever is used (what is used?) and a Q5, because the current makes the difference:
a light sized like a 6P can give about 2-2.5 hours of 1 A to the led and then it will be astoundingly bright.
If someone wants longer runtime --> less bright.
difference of a Cree P4 to a Q5 at lower currents is almost not to spot. A better reflector for the P4 and the Q5 is worse in comparison.

as to Your cons to the P3D: the only thing can to changed is the reverse clicky! With anything else, You are wrong imho.
Because You dont need more metal thanks to the blood of Your hand while holding the light, or the airflow when used on bike handlebars, who are more than efficient enough to move the heat away.
Also it is already a "head twistie" level cooser (how often does anyone has to type this again and again ... )

Only thing to end up with what You want, is to mod an existing light. An Inova T1 f.e., or even a 6P (more space, so easier). Make Your own "pill", with a massive sink, press-fit into the light (short and direct heat path is bad in any led insert I am aware of)
Will not offer the head twistie, but with a driver like the Flupic, thats what You might have in mind.
(with the Inova, You will have to change the switch with another one, f.e. from a Streamlight Scorpion, because the original switch is so-so)

PS: if You are doing this, than do the full thing and have the body milled to put an 18650 into the light --> way better power source

techwg · Jan 4, 2008

Lumapower D-MINI Q2 on the DX site http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.6515

Whats the runtime on this? i saw a review on here that the graph showed its not regulated, and i was told its really bright, yet the lux throw was only measured about 5000 or something.

can anyone shed some light on this/?

PlayboyJoeShmoe · Jan 4, 2008

I understand to a large degree what the OP wants.

I too thing the Surefire push/twist switch is pretty much bombproof.

But to use a multimode drop in you'd almost have to use two hands to select and keep a mode running. Such as while the thumb keeps the button pushed the fingers of the off hand tighten the cap.

That kind of switch with a twisty head for level would be nice!

Personally I hope to acquire a L2D this year....

techwg · Jan 5, 2008

I saw a thing on cpfmarketplace that Olight are making a tactical light, maybe that will work, and fit in my pouch.

What would be perfect for me.

techwg

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Derek Dean

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techwg

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Derek Dean

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techwg

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Boomerang

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Marduke

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yellow

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techwg

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techwg

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PlayboyJoeShmoe

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techwg

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