Fenix P1 replacement circuit?

Well, I screwed up: I replaced the Luxeon in my P1 with a Cree Q4, but missed a little bit of wire on the underside of the LED. Positive and ground made contact and the circuit is fried. :mecry:

Anyone know of a cheap circuit that will fit in the pill?

Kevin

Try this - http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
unless you want plenty of modes - http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7879
or the single mode
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3201
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3146
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3256
the 8 modes - http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.10421

but i do not know about the runtimes,but i'm sure nothing can beat the Fenix stock board runtimes

Thanks, Nano. I saw those and the ones on Kaidomain. All are larger than the driver board in the P1 (14.75mm). What I need is one I can grind down to the right size. Any idea which will work?

Kevin

i know this one is smaller http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7426
than this http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7879 because i have both of them.As for the diameter to fit the P1 pill you just have to sand it to fit,i use scissor to cut it in size and i press fit it in this flashlight http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.3379

You have waaaaaaayyyyy too many toys:twothumbs. Thanks for the help.

Kevin

Kevin,

You need to be aware that the orignal circuit in the P1 was a buck-boost circuit. It could handle voltages above the Vf of the LED, and step them down, and when the voltage was below the Vf of the LED, it went into boost mode.

The boards that you are currently looking at are buck boards. Your voltage must be above the Vf of the LED for them to work. So basically, no more 3V primary CR123 cells. If you use a buck board, you must use 3.7V RCR123's.

datiLED is correct,that's is why i use only rcr123 3.7v for this set up.
If i use primaries there will be no light,so unprotected rcr123 is fine.

datiLED said:

Kevin,

You need to be aware that the orignal circuit in the P1 was a buck-boost circuit. It could handle voltages above the Vf of the LED, and step them down, and when the voltage was below the Vf of the LED, it went into boost mode.

The boards that you are currently looking at are buck boards. Your voltage must be above the Vf of the LED for them to work. So basically, no more 3V primary CR123 cells. If you use a buck board, you must use 3.7V RCR123's.

Click to expand...

Very nice! Okay, where do I get a buck-boost board that will fit?

Thanks,
Kevin

get the piglets but you must find the right size.
http://tncproducts.com/hp_zencart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=156
but at 30 bucks a piece

Wow! For that, I can get a new P1. I think I'll try one of the cheap ones you suggested.

Thanks,
Kevin

Have you looked at the Sandwich Shoppe? The GD750 would be a good circuit for a P1. It is a buck/boost circuit, and can handle primary and RCR123 cells. You could also configure the GD at any current level you want. 400mA - 1A, no problem.

Getting warmer...This light was supposed to be a caving light (something I can lose without too much regret, and hence cheap). I have a good pocket light, but might turn this into another with one of these better quality boards.

Thanks,
Kevin

i tried to fit a dereelight driver in my P1 but it was too big despite it being sanded off and now my P1 brass can is expanding
resulting to unable to screw in the whole can.
a liitle tweak now it's ok but plenty of scars on the brass can :sick2:
now i use this driver { sku 7426 } but the 1.1A heat is too much for the Cree led to handle.
I plan to switch back to stock driver but waiting for the R2 emitter to arrive

datiLED said:

Kevin,

You need to be aware that the orignal circuit in the P1 was a buck-boost circuit. It could handle voltages above the Vf of the LED, and step them down, and when the voltage was below the Vf of the LED, it went into boost mode.

The boards that you are currently looking at are buck boards. Your voltage must be above the Vf of the LED for them to work. So basically, no more 3V primary CR123 cells. If you use a buck board, you must use 3.7V RCR123's.

Click to expand...

I believe the P1 is boost only, going into DD on Li-Ion until the voltage falls below the circuit's max Vin.

kevinm, sorry for the bump but what are the dimensions of the driver that current resides in your P1?

I have a minimag sandwich made way the heck back in 2002[?] where Luxeon drop-ins for minimags require inserting a driver in with the batteries
For those who don't know about this blast from the past, click this link
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/bb_mm.htm

I think its a MM of some sort...specs unknown, LED cracked but functioning, found in the storage drawer










If you think you could turn it to something useful, PM me and I'll have it sent your way

USPS delivery confirmation indicates it has been delivered, lemme know if it works out