Sold/Expired Interest Thread -- Mag C, Mag D clicky tailcaps?

Anyone interested in such a product? It would be like the BigLeef System tailcaps (see http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3168).

The switches are rated at 10A.

Depending on how many were made, the cost would be ~$50.

Thoughts? :thinking:

If they were knurled, rather than fluted like the BigLeef caps, and if the finishes complemented Mags, in HA3, I'd buy at least a few.

Stupid question, what would happen to the original Mag switch?

Thanks

It goes away. The tube would have to be cut down to eliminate the hole for the original switch, and then re-threaded to mount the head.

This could also be interesting for a maxFlex build. Mod the stock switch for the required constant power/momentary interrupt, and use one of these for a master on/off to eliminate the resting draw on the batteries.

I think VidPro described something similar in one of his builds, but he had to drill through the body to install the second switch.

Leef said:

Anyone interested in such a product? It would be like the BigLeef System tailcaps (see http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3168).

The switches are rated at 10A.

Depending on how many were made, the cost would be ~$50.

Thoughts? :thinking:

Click to expand...

Yes. With exactly the same tension as the spring on the BigLeef tailcaps (the spring under the switch boot).

Very interested.

Are the 10 amp switches currently available seperately?

Hey Leef, how about a direct mag switch replacement, good for 10+ amps and has a bi-pin holder already?

Ctechlite said:

Hey Leef, how about a direct mag switch replacement, good for 10+ amps and has a bi-pin holder already?

Click to expand...

That kinda hardware would be WAY more expensive than is reasonable to produce. Better to just modify the stock assembly and save a boat-load of cash.

Shane

Hallis said:

That kinda hardware would be WAY more expensive than is reasonable to produce. Better to just modify the stock assembly and save a boat-load of cash.

Shane

Click to expand...

I disagree. How big is this boat? I'm not asking for PWM softstarting and all that other stuff like a Willie Hunt LVR to be squashed in there. Just a simple aluminum housing with a switch in it that is pushed off to the top or bottom a little to allow the allen key to be inserted to tighten the ground screw and lock in the switch. A shelf on the bottom of the housing could hold a hi temp non conducting ring with a central brass positive contact. Then a ceramic bi-pin socket could be screwed to the top. Only part I cannot envision is the switch, have no idea on the size of a switch capable of 24v and 10A.

So let's see, we have (1) the housing with a big hole on one side for the switch, a small hole on the opposite for the pointy screw from the mag switch. At the top are two threaded holes to mount the (2)ceramic bi-pin holder, and at the bottom is a shelf to hold the positive contact rig. (3+4)The positive contact rig is a brass button located concentrically (sp?)inside a non conducting heat resistant ring. (5) A switch, no idea on it's size. This is the hinge that closes the door on my idea, if there is a switch that can handle 24v and 10A that will fit in this space and be reasonable priced, then we are good to go. 5 pieces by my simplified count. If I was any good at drawing I'd make it graphically appear for you but alas I am not so skillful.

Feel free to email/PM me Leef to further discuss this idea.

When it's all said and done, I'd rather have a Leef

donn, knurling is possible.

5.0Trunk, not a stupid question. Some options are discussed in previous replies to this thread. Another option may be to make M*g-D or C bodies w/o the hole and the correct length.

Greg G, yes, the switches are available separately. I order by the hundreds but I'll sell via Lighthound if there's any demand.

Ctechlite, interesting idea. I'll look into this.

All, DM51 pointed out to me that Modamag makes clicky tailcaps for the M*g C bodies, lengthened a bit for AW's LiIon Cs. His switch appears to be the same switch I use in the P1D bodies, a good switch, but I don't know if it'll handle 10A. His price is good.
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/159659

I'm interested!

I've gotten a request to sell just the tailcap switch (and boot). I'm happy to do so and am sending some to the Hound. Watch his page.

I buy these in quantities >100. They're cheap.

I would take a few!

That looks like the Judco 10A switch boot cone cover. If so, a very nice switch...and able to be put in a Dremeled out default Mag switch assembly, positioned so it fits and works with default Mag rubber switch boot.

10 amps is kind of on the boundary for what I want to use... any way of getting it safe to around 15 amps?

LuxLuthor said:

That looks like the Judco 10A switch boot cone cover. If so, a very nice switch...and able to be put in a Dremeled out default Mag switch assembly, positioned so it fits and works with default Mag rubber switch boot.

Click to expand...

Hi Lux

How do you get to the grub screw

?

leef said:

All, DM51 pointed out to me that Modamag makes clicky tailcaps for the M*g C bodies, lengthened a bit for AW's LiIon Cs. His switch appears to be the same switch I use in the P1D bodies, a good switch, but I don't know if it'll handle 10A. His price is good.

Click to expand...

Hi Leef

Modamags switch is the McClickie - Yours seems rather different in the boot and spring areas (but maybe that's just an added mod spring ?)

Have you got any more photos of the dissassemled unit.

Cheers Pete

I would buy for future use, but that means I need a host, that means I need a mod that means more money....ok I'm in. While your at it how about some black bodies without switches?

Yes, these are Judco switches. They come in two body lengths. They're rated at 10A.

Does anyone know if there's an industry standard for such ratings (e.g. 100,000 cycles @ 10A), and how that might decline with greater load?

I am interested in a couple . . . the switch alone, or with a custom tailcap. KK