Fenix P3D - don't do this!

Hi:

I just screwed a P3D by applying power to the outer ring contact of the driver PCB without power being applied to the center contact first.

This has resulted in the light functioning only in turbo and low. That is, the brightness selection via the tailcap no longer functions. Actually, the light now functions like a high-low model, with brightness selection via turning the bezel.

Oopsy.

Hmm, someone might like it this way. I could call it a "mod." I may sell it off to someone for hacking/modding at a low price...

I just screwed a P3D by applying power to the outer ring contact of the driver PCB without power being applied to the center contact first.


I'm a little slow... now how did you do that? :thinking:

Put on a forward clickie from lxt, and you'll have the perfect two level light a lot of people want.

roymail said:

I'm a little slow... now how did you do that? :thinking:

Click to expand...

I'm wondering the same thing. Ground goes to the outside of the PCB. I'm at a total loss how connecting ground to the head could damage it. oo:

Cool mod!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :twothumbs

Stereodude said:

I'm wondering the same thing. Ground goes to the outside of the PCB. I'm at a total loss how connecting ground to the head could damage it. oo:

Click to expand...

Let me explain, since my first post was too vague.

The PCB is connected to the metal head somewhere. That's how return current normally flows to the negative terminal of the batt. There is also a plated ring of copper (gold colored, so probably gold plated) on the PCB which contacts the battery tube when the head is screwed all the way down. That is an alternative, but not the normal ground contact. It is making this contact that switches the light to turbo mode.

Wow, I didn't actually realize how bone-headed what I did was until now. That will teach me to hack electronics when I first wake up.

Anyway, it appears that I was experimenting with applying 6V @ 1A current limited to the center terminal while having the head body clipped to the power supply ground. This was correct, and the light functioned properly with this connection. Then I touched the +6V alligator clip to the outer metal ring on the PCB, applying positive voltage to the alternate ground terminal (while the main ground--the head, was still negative.)

That is not a good thing, since it was the opposite polarity (+ instead of -) from that expected at the alternate ground contact.

Oddly, it effectively "modded" the light to have only turbo mode (with head screwed down) and low (with head slightly loosened--not making contact with the extra ground contact). I would not encourage anyone to "mod" their light in this manner hoping to acheive the peculiar functionality that mine is now left with.

Interestingly, when I momentarily depress and release the clicky in low level, the light acts like it will switch to the next higher level (it makes a bright flash) but settles back to low level.

Strange. I'm probably lucky it didn't get totally fried. On this light the head has two parts, and they are slightly movable relative to each other. It might be possible to open the head. I need to first get some way to turn it without damaging the finish.

Can you order a new P3D and try to do this mod again with step by step photo? :laughing: I would LOVE a 2 lvl only P3D and P2D if this is a proven mod

Doesnt the P3D already function this way by rotating the bezel anyway WITHOUT this "mod"?

Apparently he just got rid of the middle levels, and no longer needs to twist it. Which you can actually do if the cliky is failing. Mine was doing it on the P2D, if I shifted the rubbercap to the side instead of pushing down, it went to turbo without screwing the head down.

magic_elf said:

Doesnt the P3D already function this way by rotating the bezel anyway WITHOUT this "mod"?

Click to expand...

Yes. Perhaps folks misinterpret my explanation to mean that it switches between low and turbo (or high) via the tailcap switch. Not so. Only turbo (by twisting the head on) and low (twisting head off) are available. The digitally selectable brightnesses are broken.

So since the P{2,3}D/L{1/2}D models already provide effectively high/low operation via twisting the head, nothing has been gained here.

If what people want is a two-level light via tailcap switch, that doesn't seem to exist from Fenix.