I still cant get this damn thing apart. I wish those photos were still up! I really want to swap the LUX III for a Seoul USWOH and a Mcr20s. The main beam needs a lot of improvement in output and beam quality.....in my opinion.
I got the top window bezel off, but can't get the selector ring off. Does the ring absolutely have to come off?
How for do I have to take the head apart to get to the LUX III?
I just want to do a simple emitter swap!!!!!
The main bezel appears to be three pieces; the front lens retainer bezel, the middle electronics retaining bezel ring, and the rear selector/base unit. The rear selector ring needs to come off to gain enough real estate for your tools to grip onto the lower base in order to remove the middle bezel ring. The middle is the key, it allows access to the emitter and electronics. Without its removal it is impossible to remove the emitter and circuit board out the front without damaging something.
However, if you want to try just an emitter swap, then you may be able to gain access to the emitter with removal of only the front lens retaining bezel. There is a plastic (likely delrin) gear/tooth looking piece which retains the TIR lens and dresses up the 3mm leds. This piece fits under a lip on the middle bezel ring, it may be possible to gain access to the emitter by breaking this piece off and fabricating a new retention system that can either hold the TIR or a new reflector if you go that route. With the TIR out the emitter sits below, soldered to the circuit board, and should be a fairly straight-forward swap (remember to record the anode/cathode orientation).
I gave up simply due to risky heat requirements to penetrate the Loc-tite used, however I did not try brute strength using visegrips and leather pads. If you search You-Tube for "Surefire U2 Open" there is a video of one CPF member's technique for opening heads (I don't recommend his selector ring removal technique). There has been some discussion of the teeth of the vice grips penetrating the leather and other materials and scratching/gouging the head, so beware. Another practice with limited success is applying direct heat to the thread area using a pencil torch. The idea being a quick heat in a specific/controlled area and open the head quick enough to avoid prolonged/extreme heat damage to the internals. I simply could not rely on the tools I had at hand to attempt this. Another possibility is to freeze the head to attempt making the Loc-tite brittle.
