Modding a crank light?

Oznog

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 2, 2006
Messages
595
I've taken these apart before. Contrary to popular belief, the ones I looked at did not contain a capacitor. In fact all the cheap supercapacitors I've seen have pretty high internal resistances which presents a problem, also really a supercapacitor isn't a great size. 3 LEDs @ 4.5V 20mA each would drain a 1F from 2.5V to 1v in 19 sec even with 100% efficient DC/DC conversion. I saw a rechargeable lithium ion coin cell in there. The specs showed it had only tens of mAH capacity too. The idea of "cranking for x seconds provides y minutes of light" only is correct in that the LED will be pretty dim for a lot of that time.

Anyhow I was wondering about how we could make the beefiest crank light with a top-of-the-line emitter in there and a larger lithium batt. The light I looked at had plenty of extra room inside! Of course the problem of "significant cranking required" is still there. And with a big lithium cell that could get wall-charged and run for hours and hours why you'd ever need to crank it for just a few minutes of extra light. But it'd be fun. Lithiums last a long time when stored mostly discharged, so actually yeah it could standby for years in a camper and get cranked up for like 10 min and run an emitter for a long time.

My question is this- does anyone know which cranks have the best current capabilities? IIRC the one I looked at was in the tens of mA when I shorted a current meter across the terminals and cranked it. So that's like a peak current capability! I'd be willing to use a crank which required more work to turn if it produced more output. That one didn't resist my cranking very hard anyways and I was expending more energy just moving my hands in that swirling motion than actually putting into the batt.

Oh and a better step-up converter too, we wanna get a decent amount of white light here of a single lithium cell. In half the cases I like the idea of just getting full power for as long as I can and letting it just shutoff instead of fading to like 1/4 intensity for 4x as long. A protected cell will already handle that shutoff, right?
 

Marduke

Flashaholic
Joined
Jun 19, 2007
Messages
10,110
Location
Huntsville, AL
Contrary to popular belief? I thought everyone here knew that the cheap crank lights have rechargable LIR2032's in them for the most part. That is their downfall. They have no protection against either over charge or over discharge. Either will kill the cell.

The best crank light out there is FreePlay, as they use AA sized NiMH cells which are user replaceable if the original ones ever wear out. These cells are MUCH more robust and long running than cheap LIR2032's. Their build quality is also top notch, and they have probably the most efficient mechanisms for crank lights (they convert more crank energy into stored electrical energy)

I've updated a Sherpa (I have opaque yellow US version, not the foreign X-Ray version) with LSD Rayovac Hybrids with only a minimal amount of soldering. Now I can charge it up at the start of my local power outage season, and forget about it until next year.
 

jzmtl

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 4, 2006
Messages
3,123
Location
Montreal, Canada
Problem I have with nimh cell is it'll take forever to charge them up with cranking. The nightstar shaker I have use a really good capacitor, charge it up and it'll hold charges for months no problem. If I can get some of those and put in a crank light it would be awsome.
 

Fallingwater

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 11, 2005
Messages
3,323
Location
Trieste, Italy
Contrary to popular belief? I thought everyone here knew that the cheap crank lights have rechargable LIR2032's in them for the most part. That is their downfall. They have no protection against either over charge or over discharge. Either will kill the cell.
In my experience, most crank lights have small (40-80mah) NiMH packs. I bought several in the past two years, and only one had a LIR2032 cell (which I cut out when I figured it had no overcharge protection).
 
Top