Nightcore Defender problems

Optik49

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
504
Location
Boston
I just got a Nightcore Defender from Tad Gear. Beside the bezel being difficult to turn (which I am sure some liberation will fix) I also am having a problem with the brightness levels. I have been able change brightness a couple of times but most of the time, I'm not able to do anything but tighten it all the way and get the strobe. I also have noticed that the head has a little movement. Did I just get a bad light? Or am I missing something? The look and output is good but I'm not happy with these issues.
 

Marduke

Flashaholic
Joined
Jun 19, 2007
Messages
10,110
Location
Huntsville, AL
I suggest you read the instructions on how to change modes. While the light is on and the head is tightened, loosen and tighten it very quickly.
 

WadeF

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 24, 2007
Messages
4,180
Location
Perkasie, PA
Clean and lube the threads, and if that doesn't help, remove the o-ring and see if that makes it better.
 

Illumination

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Messages
1,039
Location
New York City
You light will be much easier to use if you remove the existing head o-ring and replace it with a slightly thinner one of the same ring size. The Fenix o-rings fit perfectly.

Also lube the head.

+1 on Wade's instructional video. I think I watched it 5x when I first got my light.
 

StefanFS

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
1,262
Location
Silicon Road 1, Sweden
I just got a Nightcore Defender from Tad Gear. Beside the bezel being difficult to turn (which I am sure some liberation will fix) I also am having a problem with the brightness levels. I have been able change brightness a couple of times but most of the time, I'm not able to do anything but tighten it all the way and get the strobe. I also have noticed that the head has a little movement. Did I just get a bad light? Or am I missing something? The look and output is good but I'm not happy with these issues.

My light developed the exact same behaviour after a week of perfect operation. Nothing could get it to work like it should again. Only maximum or strobe with the head very tight. I discovered that it's impossible to disassemble the head, I took the driver out with the intention of just swapping that. Unfortunately I discovered that my light had a loose emitter, the Q5 ministar moved. I then lost the head when trying to get the brass pill out with force.
Stefan
 

Albinoni

Banned
Joined
Dec 20, 2007
Messages
526
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Wow I really had my heart set on a Nitecore at a later date and sort of had plans to buy one, but sadly this post has completely turned me off buying one now unless Nitecore get their act together and do something about it. Paying $76 US for a torch which provides good features but with poor feedback (eg in this post) is just not good enough for me. Also is Nitecroe aware of this problem so it can be rectified or is this problem only happening with an X amount of torches. Now I wonder if its equivalent or close brother the MTE C370101 is also suffering from this problem as the Nitecore. I think I might settle for a Luma Power LM31 or LM33 as I've read many good things and feedback re these torches and again cheaper than the Nitecore.
 

Dan C

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Messages
271
Location
Cheyenne, WY
My light developed the exact same behaviour after a week of perfect operation. Nothing could get it to work like it should again. Only maximum or strobe with the head very tight. I discovered that it's impossible to disassemble the head, I took the driver out with the intention of just swapping that. Unfortunately I discovered that my light had a loose emitter, the Q5 ministar moved. I then lost the head when trying to get the brass pill out with force.
Stefan

I was having troubles as well, the head would have to be tightened more than I felt necessary. This caused problems changing modes, etc. Then, I discovered that the pill is easily removed with a custom ground pair of needle nose pliers.

There is no thread locking material on mine. Upon removing the pill I also noticed that the emitter is NOT epoxied down, rather just lies on a bed of heat sink paste and is held only by the leads. The reflector positions it when assembled. I put a dab of ProGold on the pill threads and screwed her back in, tightening it securely. Now it works great with only very moderate pressure needed when tightening the head to effect high mode or changing levels.

What I believe was happening with mine is that when tightening the head a little too much, it was unseating the pill slightly from it's threads in the head and causing intermittent contact issues like flickering and turning off. Further tightening the head would force the pill against the 'front' ramp of the threads regaining contact. But this 'dead' area in between would cause all sorts of problems with normal operation. Mine works perfectly now since I tightened the pill.

Reading this, I sound like a moron as I just woke up, sheesh. May try to clean it up later.......
 

StefanFS

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 12, 2006
Messages
1,262
Location
Silicon Road 1, Sweden
I was having troubles as well, the head would have to be tightened more than I felt necessary. This caused problems changing modes, etc. Then, I discovered that the pill is easily removed with a custom ground pair of needle nose pliers.

My pill has excessive amounts of red threadlock goo in the threads. The emitter had some runny thermal paste under it, but there was a gap between the pill and the emitter which was visible when I took the driver out. The pill is so stuck I can't even take it out in small pieces after the driver, led etc. have been removed with tools.

In retrospect I should have just sent the light back for replacement.
Stefan
 

Dan C

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Messages
271
Location
Cheyenne, WY
My pill has excessive amounts of red threadlock goo in the threads. The emitter had some runny thermal paste under it, but there was a gap between the pill and the emitter which was visible when I took the driver out. The pill is so stuck I can't even take it out in small pieces after the driver, led etc. have been removed with tools.

In retrospect I should have just sent the light back for replacement.
Stefan

I guess I got lucky, mine had nothing on the threads. Why do most manufacturers feel like they have to permanently assemble the heads? Sorry about your loss Stefan.
 

Hitthespot

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 15, 2007
Messages
1,662
Location
Mentor, Ohio
It is a shame to read these threads. This could be a great light. I've had nothing but trouble with mine. I don't want to send it back because the tint, brightness, and beam are all perfect. After cleaning it works perfect for two or three days then starts acting up again. I am at the point where the only thing I use is deoxit on the threads and O-Ring. I just don't get it. I have heard that Tadgear is waiting on the next batch. Hopefully they have solved what I believe are some manufacturing problems / inconsistancies. If I hear that they have I will probably send mine back.

Bill
 

Dan C

Enlightened
Joined
Oct 27, 2002
Messages
271
Location
Cheyenne, WY
It is a shame to read these threads. This could be a great light. I've had nothing but trouble with mine. I don't want to send it back because the tint, brightness, and beam are all perfect. After cleaning it works perfect for two or three days then starts acting up again. I am at the point where the only thing I use is deoxit on the threads and O-Ring. I just don't get it. I have heard that Tadgear is waiting on the next batch. Hopefully they have solved what I believe are some manufacturing problems / inconsistancies. If I hear that they have I will probably send mine back.

Bill


You said it Bill. I would love to have a couple more but believe I'll wait a while to see if they can get the bugs ironed out. I may try to swap for one or two used ones from disgruntled owners such as yourself to play with however.....
 

Khaytsus

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 2, 2002
Messages
648
Location
Kentucky, USA
Well, here's hoping mine doesn't develop such problems, but so far mine is great.

I've peeped down into the head of mine and I don't see any locktite/glue on the pill, but an initial attempt to unscrew it failed so not sure. I used the same tool I use to open up tails on Fenix and the NiteCore, but the tips are really too thick, I'll have to try something else sometime.

I've found that you have to unscrew the head about 1/8 or more in order to not flicker between high and user modes, but that's not a big deal, I'm used to that on my P2D. The distance between modes is actually less on the NiteCore, so less twisting, so that's good.

Only kind of annoying thing is I have to lock out the tailcap, but it's mainly because I have a GITD aftermarket tailcap and I think it's shorter than the NiteCore tailcap. I'm going to try to shave off more of the inside of the GITD tailcap, otherwise swap the NiteCore one back in.. I never noticed it 'flickering' in my pocket like I do now unless I LOTC, so this is not any fault of the light itself.

So far I'm very pleased with my light.
 

e2x2e

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 19, 2007
Messages
462
I am really attracted to this flashlight. I'm sorry you're having problems. I wish it was made in USA, I'd pay extra $. Can't wait till they're available, I'm saving up!
 

Tremendo

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Messages
407
Location
Kingwood, TX
Zero switching problems on mine. High to low is less than 1/8 of a turn, and I've never had any flickering at all. Mine has worked perfectly (I hope it stays that way) and the UI is simple and very usable. So for me, this has become my favorite light right now, dissing my FF3, U2, P2D-P100, Rex 2.0, etc. Good luck!
 

Marduke

Flashaholic
Joined
Jun 19, 2007
Messages
10,110
Location
Huntsville, AL
Try trimming some of the peg off the GITD tailcap. It makes it less sensitive.

The peg is the little post on the inside. I took about half the peg off my UF C3's
 

Optik49

Enlightened
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Messages
504
Location
Boston
Ok here is the update. After doing a little reading and taking a closer look at my Defender I corrected a few things.
First I changed the O ring, cleaned and lube the threads. Then I noticed the switch assembly in the tail cap was loose so I tightened it up.
I used it for about 15 minutes and no problems at all. Every setting is working flawlessly. :twothumbs I still like my Novatac 120P better :thumbsup: but the defender is growing on me. It's a nice AA alternative.
:thanks: for the help guys!



 

Steve Curtis

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Aug 16, 2007
Messages
132
Location
UK but soon to be New York
mine died with the same issue over a month ago , I'm waiting for a replacement from the 2nd batch so ill let you all know if its any better than the 1st.
if not it will go back again for either a refund or replacement which will be sold to fund a L1 or new SF Backup when they are available.

its a shame as the Defender is so nearly perfect if and when it decides to work.
 
Top