Some of my Mods : Infinity UltraCree and Hybrid HA Aleph2 Executive2 (HAE^2)

Ctechlite

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Dec 7, 2004
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Hey Folks, I usually don't have time to share my mods but I have put an effort into trying to share my ideas with this great community. I read a lot and take a lot of ideas from these great pages and hopefully I can share some of mine.

This is my latest...



It's a Surefire M3 bezel/head with a McR38 (joker version) reflector, a Downboy 1400 driver and a SSC P4 USVOI emitter. The body is a Leef 2x18650, although the two 18650's are a little bit short in there so a spacer was made and included with the battery positive contact I made out of solid nylon and a piece of aluminum pushed into it and held in place with a slight interference fit at one end.







Sometimes it sports an SW01 Fatty and sometimes the LOTC.

(hint : click the pics to make them a little bit bigger)
 
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Ctechlite

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GD1500- ouch that's hot!!!

Here's another, just a little one really. I have to take a few more pics of the part I made too, but you can see a little hint of it in these.



That's an AMc-Mule from Don's latest wave. It is/was the black variety, it reminded me of an oil slick when I got it, but the finish is worn from a couple months of heavy use and could now be called a mottled color of the original black, some brown and some electroless nickle.



It orignally had a GDuP LE from the Shoppe, but I needed some cash so I had to sell the LE with another EN mule I had. The black one now sports a GD1500 Q5 cree LE I made a while ago. Oh boy what a scorcher :devil:

Here's a pic of a tail end mod I did...



I did that while looking for a nail in my tire at 5am just after I left for work :party:
 
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nein166

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Re: Some of my Mods by : Ctechlite

Cool, Hows the focus with the joker McR38?

Do you get a shadow ring outside the sidespill from the bezel being in the path of the reflector? My G2 did that when I put a McR27XR in it.
 

Ctechlite

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Re: Some of my Mods by : Ctechlite

Hey nein166,

Focus with the joker Mc38 (the only 38 they had at the shoppe when I bought it...:shrug:) and the SSC P4 is pretty good imo. At distances of about 0-2 feet there is a slight donut, but if I have to get that close to see something I grab the mule. From 2-5 feet there are noticeable variations in light intensity with the total spot. The central spot is very bright and intense that fades gradually into the large "middle" flood portion, this is also very bright. Then there is the outer portion of the flood that I think you are referring to as a shadow ring, but I wouldn't call it a shadow as to me it is a very definitive marking from the middle flood to the outer flood.

It's like the central spot gradually fades into the middle flood, then all of a sudden there is this line/ring/circle where the flood suddenly fades and then is cut off totally with no more light cast outside the circle. Beyond 5 feet there is no noticeable ring within the flood, it becomes the bright central spot and just flood.

I've been using it to walk the dog at night to look for other dog's "bombs" (so I don't step on it!!!) and find the central spot too bright for the 3 feet or so from my waist holding position to the ground so I usually move the spot off a little bit from where my path is heading.
 

Ctechlite

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Dec 7, 2004
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2CNflex

This one is my Nflex 2C, pictured here with ShortMax



It is a regular 2C mag body with a very specially modified switch housing that holds an Nflex convertor board V1 from CPF member Georges80 at taskled.com. It is a very tight fit in there and the hotlips style heatsink that holds the SSC P4 had to have channels cut into it to allow the Nflex to fit. The stock switch is modified for momentary function to control the Nflex, it still clicks too! I modified it to keep clicking because it retains it's "self cleaning" function that way. There are ways to just have momentary but you lose the internal rotating switch action and hence the self cleaning ability of the mag switch. There is a new battery positive contact under the original to bring power around the switch and directly to the Nflex board. No battery power runs thru the switch now, it's just a signal to the board to turn the led on/off and to program it for it's differnet current modes. I love the Nflex, you can get quick access to super low, super hi, and a preset level anywhere you set it to.





My lights get used!:crackup:
 
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Ctechlite

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ShortMax

This is my ShortMax.



It's standing next to a regular Mag 2C body.

It is a Mag C that was cut down and rethreaded at the tail end to accommodate 1x 18650. I did not do the cutting and rethreading tho. The tail cap was bored out and the stock spring was placed at the bottom. I made a battery tube to keep the 18650 from rattling and the tube fits into the tail cap and stays put by a slight interference fit. This keeps the spring held in place too. The light engine is a MadMax plus from the Shoppe with a SSC P4 USVOI emitter inside a hotlips style heatsink that I had to cut a little off the top to fit the SSC P4 because it was for the old style Luxeon oval base emitters. I like the MadMax because it can handle 1.2v up to 5.4 so a Li-Ion is very nice in there and makes for a nice bright thrower. Or if I need to I can put in a regular alkaline C cell for much reduced output. I want to try a MOP reflector in there some day to see how it does, throw is nice, but flood is very useful!:nana:






Tailcap marks from my lathe when boring it out, my inside jaws do not open wide enough and my outside jaws just barely hold this due to it's rounded end.
 
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Ctechlite

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Infinity UltraCree

Ok, first I apologize for no pictures. It's just I get so into the mod I usually forget to stop and take pictures. Anyway...

I've had this Infinity Ultra government edition, the one with the NSN number on it originally purchased from county.com. It's been sitting in my pile of "to mod" stuff for about two years. Well, I did a little research previously and found a couple of people have done a led swap mod with a Lux and more recently a Cree, and maybe one person who used a SSC (soft dome tho so not too good for longevity). Just no one's posted pics or anything so...

I got to thinking how it would do with a cree, especially with the nice wide dispersion pattern, and apparently so have a few others who reported they liked it...but still no pictures. I like pictures, they help me to visualize.

I pulled out my old dremeled and hacked apart Infinity Ultra G and started measuring, then I chucked it in my lathe and bored it out to get rid of the dremel marks I had left in it two years ago. It was now nice and smooth inside. But how do I mount a Cree in there? I had already made a copper penny heatsink for a Lux, but that would not do with the Cree's square shape and anode/cathode arrangement.

I came up with a "batman" symbol shaped heatsink that I thought would work. I made it about 3mm thick, nice and thick :twothumbs:. Then I got out the trusty dremel (no milling machine for me...yet) and cut two slots out, made it kind of look like a very tiny batarang. Top view below.



I made that in my fancy CAD program called Microsoft Paint...:crackup:You get the idea of what it looked like. The Cree got two leads soldered to the underside, then epoxied onto the heatsink with the wire leads falling into the slots I cut out. I let it dry then put a little glow-poxy around the emitter and pushed it into the Ultra G head. Flipped it over, trimmed the leads, tinned them, put some potting compound into the remaining cavity, then put the stock board onto the leads, soldered them on and squished the board into the potting compound. Luckily I put in just enough to grab the board and not ooze out (too much). I quickly checked to make sure I had ground contact between the board and the head and then put it in a mini clamp and it's now drying in my work room.

Oh, I did test it quickly, but keeping it upside down to keep the potting compund from running out was a little difficult and gave up.

OOh, ooH, I almost forgot. I left the stock board at it's stock drive level. Someone had reported it put about 150ma to the emitter and I figured this would be plenty for a Cree to get some good night navigation light levels.

I have to give all of the credit for this mod to the people in the below link.
Here's one that pretty much has a link to all of the other ones.

Pictures tomorrow of the completed mod and maybe some beamshots but they will probably be just as bad as any other beamshot I take.:nana:

Edit: added pics

Ok, so it's not tomorrow...:shrug:



 
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Ctechlite

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Hybrid HA Aleph2 Executive2 (HAE^2)

Here we have a just completed Aleph2/E2E hybrid. It consists of a HA Aleph 1xcr123 body, with a HA Aleph switch housing, with a McClickie in it. Boring normal stuff so far.

Up top is a Surefire E2e head with a tiny aluminum extension (I'm thinking of making one in brass for a nicer color contrast than bare Aluminum to HA OD). Inside the stretch E2e head is a McR20 that has been shaved just a tiny bit at the light entrance for proper focus of the SSC P4. The P4 sits on top of an Aleph LE with a Lambda MiniPro III driver. This driver is great! It can run off of 1aa, 2aa, cr123, rcr123! It really sucks the cr123's dry with diminishing output so there is no abrupt cut-off leaving you with no light. Too bad their are none available atm, maybe soon? I doubt it tho:mecry:





Grouped together with my M3LeefSw01



I know, I know, I suck at taking pics. Maybe I will get better as I take more :shrug:
 
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