"cheap" m*g85

is there any way to make a cheap(ish) m@g85?

thanks

Shreknow91 said:

is there any way to make a cheap(ish) m@g85?

thanks

Click to expand...

No, unless you want to melt parts.

Well it really depends what you consider cheap. If you mean $50 or less then I don't think it's possible, but if you mean under $100 then it definitely is.

Here is the setup I'm currently doing. I'll list places to buy everything and roughly how much it costs:

4C Maglite (Zbattery.com) = $22.85 shipped
3x Protected 18650 Cells (AW in Dealer Forum) = $40.50 shipped
2x Potted WA01185 bulb (CPFM Forum) = $18.50 Shipped
Cammed/Camless Aluminum Reflector (Kaidomain) = $15 Shipped
Borofloat Lens (Flashlightlens.com) = $6.25 Shipped
PVC Tube (Lowes/Home Depot) = $1-$2

So your total is right around $105 after shipping and tax. I think this is going to be the very cheapest that a Mag85 can be made for, without using cheap (crap) parts.

And if you plan on charging these batteries you'll need a charger.

Shane

Hallis said:

And if you plan on charging these batteries you'll need a charger.

Shane

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Guess I forgot about that. :laughing:

Pick up the 139 from AW for I think $13-$15.

5761 is brighter, smaller and cheaper because of fewer batteries, bulbs have more than one source not like the 1185, just a choice to consider. Do a CPF search on key word: 5761. Since its "discovery" the 1185 has been waning a bit in popularity.

3C Maglite (brightguy.com) = $22.00 shipped
2x A123 cell from Jim jones, $26 (shipping about $3)
5761 from topbulb.com @$6 with shipping
Cammed/Camless Aluminum Reflector (Kaidomain) = $15 Shipped
Borofloat Lens (Flashlightlens.com) = $6.25 Shipped (mag lite mag charger windows [lens] are $2.50 high temp tempered glass made for heat)
FM pr to bipin adapter. $19 shipped

But if you like the 1185 here are two bulbs in a deal with the re-usable bipin to PR adapters, use like a potted bulb:
FS-PR to BiPin socket with Welch Allyn 01185 Bulbs

That sounds like an ideal set up for me NL. A few questions from a newbie if you don't mind

Would 2 x a123 cells have enough voltage (6.6v?) to get good light from the 5761?
What sort of output and runtime could be expected with the above setup?
Is it possible to fit a charging jack? (How to anywhere?)
I'd need a good charger, would the BC-6 be suitable?

Sorry for all the Q's, i've been lurking for a while looking for a good hotwire setup and this sounds interesting.

Regards,

Dai

Would my Maha 777+ charge up the A123?
Also would this 5761 set up need the tailcap and switch resistance fix?

Dai said:

That sounds like an ideal set up for me NL. A few questions from a newbie if you don't mind

Would 2 x a123 cells have enough voltage (6.6v?) to get good light from the 5761?
What sort of output and runtime could be expected with the above setup?
Is it possible to fit a charging jack? (How to anywhere?)
I'd need a good charger, would the BC-6 be suitable?

Sorry for all the Q's, i've been lurking for a while looking for a good hotwire setup and this sounds interesting.

Regards,

Dai

Click to expand...

All mods or even a good mag lite let alone will benefit from fixing the tail cap and reducing the resistance, resistance uses voltages and reduces light output.

I love the BC-6 charger, it replaced 8 chargers that did business at my house, I charge my A123 powered 5761 in 15 minutes with it.

A123 batteries are great in a 5761, maybe he best. Those cells have a flat discharge and handle higher amps than that bulb so they easily put 6.9 volts at the bulb, Jim Jones and I have both measured that. 6.9 volts at the 5761 is ideal, long life and no insta flaching. With soft start and other packs it is possible to get the 5761 sometimes to run at 7.1 volts bulb, that depends on the individual bulb though. The emoli on and NTC also puts 6.9 volts to the 5761 bulb.
The A123 is my favorite flashlight, personal preference and to make it better?
Another subject, but Jim found an aspheric lens with a focal length of 254 mm that makes the 5761 on a smooth litho reflector a true spot flood and you get a longer through with it than without it. But the 5761 in a 3c host on 2 A123 is wonderful. I also put jacks into these lights.
A123 cells btw are positive ground, the case is positive, if not using a driver to take advantage of having light ground and battery ground the same reverse the cell position in the light, this is not a problem, The bump end is Negative. Just an observation.


This is a 5761 on A123

3C Maglite (brightguy.com) = $22.00 shipped
2x A123 cell from Jim jones, $26 (shipping about $3)
5761 from topbulb.com @$6 with shipping
Cammed/Camless Aluminum Reflector (Kaidomain) = $15 Shipped
Borofloat Lens (Flashlightlens.com) = $6.25 Shipped (mag lite mag charger windows [lens] are $2.50 high temp tempered glass made for heat)
FM pr to bipin adapter. $19 shipped

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Interesting setup, although I would recommend a Kiu socket instead of a PR adapter. Cheaper, sturdier, and lower resistance. No stock "plastic tower" to melt. The drawback is that the abiltiy to "cam focus" the light is lost. Also, if you wanted to skimp further, you could buy plain glass lenses from Kaidomain ($3 for 5 lenses, you could replace the plastic window in all your maglites, even "stock" ones). Borofloat isn't AR-coated anyway, so there shouldn't be a loss in transmission. I'm not sure if 5761 is hot enough to break glass, I know 100W+ mods require borofloat. I know that ROP-Hi works fine with plain glass or UCL.

2xTrinity said:

Interesting setup, although I would recommend a Kiu socket instead of a PR adapter. Cheaper, sturdier, and lower resistance. No stock "plastic tower" to melt. The drawback is that the abiltiy to "cam focus" the light is lost. Also, if you wanted to skimp further, you could buy plain glass lenses from Kaidomain ($3 for 5 lenses, you could replace the plastic window in all your maglites, even "stock" ones). Borofloat isn't AR-coated anyway, so there shouldn't be a loss in transmission. I'm not sure if 5761 is hot enough to break glass, I know 100W+ mods require borofloat. I know that ROP-Hi works fine with plain glass or UCL.

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When I first started building lights I thought it would be great to retain the Mag cam focus and I devised several methods to do that and also re-wire the socket to reduce resistance. The cam action is bogus in the long run, you can open and close focus in one revolution, I found out what all the experienced guys were telling me. You do not change from a good focus setting so you usually set it and leave it. Within two turns anyway you can achieve that bogus flood effect with just the bell. Without frosting the bulb or using a LOP or better, with a plain bulb if you open the focus you get "donuts" and artifacts. No cam means you can improve greatly on the variations available to mod by, the cam is a detriment but can be retained if you really have to have it.
Yes, the 5761 will blow UCL windows. One thing about the 5761 it is a reasonable hot wire and can be used for more than amazement. As such you will end up running it for extended time and using it often. With A123 and Emoli and RC chargers you can recharge in 15 minutes so you end up using it again. I have blown UCLs with 5761 around 7 minute run time:shakehead. I have not melted a tower with the 5761 on A123, Emoli or AA cells. But have softened them up with the 64430 bulb.
Mag Lite has made the famous Mag Charger for about 30 years, I have one of the originals, I got it when I worked with a police supply company when mag first intoduced them! The MC window with 30 years behind it is a proven high temp soda lime glass, cuts down UV too. They cost from various web dealers and local supply stores $2.50 retail. From Mag lite web site if you get to the parts page they link to 3 sponsored suppliers, one has a reasonable shipping rate, something 'king.com
:wave:

I like KIU sockets, Pr to bi pins adapters used to be so expensive I devised my own design and now build them with a Mill-Max pin connector so they have at least or better the electical conductivity of KIU sockets. This is a hobby and as such I never consider costs. $20 difference in price is a meal out, so what. That is why they call us flashaholics, we are sick.
Pr to bipin sockets are close to drop in and easier to use.

Northern Lights said:

When I first started building lights I thought it would be great to retain the Mag cam focus and I devised several methods to do that and also re-wire the socket to reduce resistance. The cam action is bogus in the long run, you can open and close focus in one revolution, I found out what all the experienced guys were telling me. You do not change from a good focus setting so you usually set it and leave it. Within two turns anyway you can achieve that bogus flood effect with just the bell. Without frosting the bulb or using a LOP or better, with a plain bulb if you open the focus you get "donuts" and artifacts. No cam means you can improve greatly on the variations available to mod by, the cam is a detriment but can be retained if you really have to have it.

Click to expand...

I retained it in my 2C ROP, with FM MOP reflector. Stock, the cam could actually withdraw the bulb completely out of the reflector, which was bad, so I ended up actually dremeling down the cam to make it a more gradual slope, so that couldn't possibly defocus to the point where severe "donut" effect came into play. I actually use that ROP more often as a portable "flood" than a spot, it turns out. I also made the cam approach a "flat top" rather than a pointy "tip" to make it harder to "overshoot" the maximum flood setting. I actually use the focusing a lot, and with the gentler slope making the head easier to turn, I can switch from ideal spot to ideal flood with one quarter-turn using my thumb and forefinger of one hand.

I agree that even this is somewhat of a gimmick, but what can I say, I like customizing things...

I like KIU sockets, Pr to bi pins adapters used to be so expensive I devised my own design and now build them with a Mill-Max pin connector so they have at least or better the electical conductivity of KIU sockets. This is a hobby and as such I never consider costs. $20 difference in price is a meal out, so what. That is why they call us flashaholics, we are sick.
Pr to bipin sockets are close to drop in and easier to use.

Click to expand...

The nicest advantage of the PR base is the ability to switch to different lamps easier, and the fact that the bulbs tend to be smaller making them more practical to store spares in the tailcap. I run my 2C ROP for example I carry a spare "low" lamp in the tailcap.

2xTrinity said:

...so I ended up actually dremeling down the cam to make it a more gradual slope, so that couldn't possibly defocus to the point where severe "donut" effect came into play. I actually use that ROP more often as a portable "flood" than a spot, it turns out. I also made the cam approach a "flat top" rather than a pointy "tip" to make it harder to "overshoot" the maximum flood setting...

Click to expand...

You realize that is brilliant? I am working with Osram 64430 axial filament bulbs. They are really floody and as a G6.35 they are tall and there is not much room left with the head threads. The other point is you have to lower the socket significantly. As far as I know I am the only person who has made a pr to bipin G6.35 and is uses real genuine pin connectors for a good connection. Your idea has such a potential application to a 64430 mod that I concieve myself using it.

:thanks:
Got picks, won't post here and detour the subject but if you want to see:
FS- DROP IN G6.35 CERAMIC PR TO BI-PIN SOCKETS
FS- Genuine Osram 64430 Halo Star Bulbs, Optional frosting

Many thanks for the extra info gents, lots for me to think on there.

I've also got the chance on a 18aa>5d running a 65w 64447 irc, but i'm thinking that might be a bit of a "WOW!" light rather than a useable torch, as well as being much larger and heavier. Something based on a 3c would be much more useable i think, i don't need to start fires with it!

can you use normal d cell batteries (non rechargable), you know the ones i can pick up at a grocery store down the street, can i use those in a M@G85?

Shreknow91 said:

can you use normal d cell batteries (non rechargable), you know the ones i can pick up at a grocery store down the street, can i use those in a M@G85?

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short answer: no


long answer:

voltage of the 1185 would require NINE D cells just to light up. Alkaline D-Cells don't perform well at high current, due to their high internal resistance. Go much over 1 Amp and runtime really plummets, 1185 draws about 3.5A, too much.

ROP-Hi will work with 6 D cells (NiMH or NiCd, not alkaline), and I have read that some people have used ROP-Lo with alkaline cells (only 2.5A), but even that I wouldn't recommend, current draw is still so high that it would work for a short while, and you'd find yourself throwing away a lot of money in cells.

Good quality NiXX or LiXX are a must for these kinds of mods.

ok thanks:thumbsup: