Driver board list / regulator board list.

[kosPap]

indeed but I ma searching for a 1400mA 5-mode board, or one that has spece to add a 4th chip...

[TorchBoy]

I ma searching for a 1400mA 5-mode board...

Even if you don't know what the 5 modes are?

I guess the best thing is to ask KD directly. Good luck!

[MorePower]

Some efficiency results for the 500mA SHO Micropuck driving an XPG R4 from nailbender. I love these things for simple, bulletproof 2 cell Maglite builds.

[CODE] Vin Iin Vout Iout Eff

3.000 861 3.106 645 77.6%

2.900 839 3.095 605 77.0%

2.800 829 3.086 575 76.4%

2.700 810 3.075 540 75.9%

2.600 791 3.064 508 75.7%

2.500 774 3.054 479 75.6%

2.350 751 3.037 436 75.0%

2.200 727 3.020 395 74.6%

2.000 700 2.995 344 73.6%

1.750 657 2.961 284 73.1%

1.500 625 2.922 228 71.1%

1.000 464 2.798 106 63.9%[/CODE]Looks like maybe the low Vf of the XPG helps keep Iout higher than 500mA, or else a component in the Micropuck itself isn't properly limiting current to 500mA. Either way, I'll take the extra lumens.

Once I get my 350mA Micropucks from a recent ebay auction win, I'll add that data as well.

[TorchBoy]

Some efficiency results for the 500mA SHO Micropuck driving an XPG R4 from nailbender.

Thanks for posting that data. Is the Micropuck in the boost configuration or buck/boost?

Looks like maybe the low Vf of the XPG helps keep Iout higher than 500mA, or else a component in the Micropuck itself isn't properly limiting current to 500mA.

I'd go with your first theory, especially if you're trying to boost the battery voltage to drive the LED. I don't think their output is well regulated, and 500 mA is probably just a nominal figure for the sake of calling it something.

[MorePower]

Thanks for posting that data. Is the Micropuck in the boost configuration or buck/boost?


I'd go with your first theory, especially if you're trying to boost the battery voltage to drive the LED. I don't think their output is well regulated, and 500 mA is probably just a nominal figure for the sake of calling it something.

It's in boost config.

[Fulgeo]

indeed but I ma searching for a 1400mA 5-mode board, or one that has spece to add a 4th chip...

Hey kosPap if you are looking for a buck board to do this you can also just wire in an additional AMC7135 for an additional 330-350 mA. You do not really need the space on the board to accomplish this. I have changed a 2-mode 150mA -1050mA board into a 2-mode 500mA - 1400mA buck board and just last night I added an additional AMC7135 chip to a 3-mode shining beam driver to crank its max output from about 2800mA to 3100mA. It works like a charm. You just have to have a steady hand with your soldering pencil. I got the spare chips from a defective 4xAMC7135 board I had. I also make sure to use AA epoxy to glue the free floating AMC7135 to the heatsink.

[kosPap]

indeed! I have seen epople do it with Sandiwch shoppe boards...I think it was dark zero that showed a threesometriple stacking of chips...

Kinda scary though of pulliing it through though

[TorchBoy]

The AMC7135 is a very simple and straightforward driver to play with, and as Fulgeo showed they don't all have to be switched by the mode controller (if you're using one). I don't know why more people haven't done that.

[Aircraft800]

Linear Regulator
ShiningBeam.com SKU:1217
3-Mode Regulated Circuit Board for Cree MC-E and SSC P7 (Not in Stock today, check often)
Based on the AMC7135 X 8 with 3-Mode Low-Med-High with memory

I've had very good luck with this one so far. I remove the preinstalled LED leads and give it some nice 22ga teflon jacket wire to the P7 emitter and I read 2.78A at the emitter from a IMR 26650 cell fully charged. There is a slight ringing in the Mid mode. No problems with heat when run on high.

I grabbed 4 of these, and am using 2 now with no problems. I see they go out of stock all the time, but appear once more come in. Download also has these once in a while in his multisink thread.

I know I've seen more info here somewhere, but didn't see it on the list. Here are some closeup pictures.

[kosPap]

me too....and saturday it will be tested on a real gun in a local Spec ial forces reservists exercise!

[TorchBoy]

There is a slight ringing in the Mid mode. No problems with heat when run on high.

I grabbed 4 of these, and am using 2 now with no problems. I see they go out of stock all the time, but appear once more come in. Download also has these once in a while in his multisink thread.

I know I've seen more info here somewhere, but didn't see it on the list. Here are some closeup pictures.

Thanks for the review and photos. It's definitely in the list (as a 2.5 A driver), but it's not on the Shining Beam site so I've just now marked it as discontinued. Have you seen it come back from a non-existent state like that before? (Edit: Yes, I see that this driver now exists again. Stupid stupid way of doing it.)

What do you mean "ringing"? Does it make an audible sound?

[Aircraft800]

Thanks for the review and photos. It's definitely in the list (as a 2.5 A driver), but it's not on the Shining Beam site so I've just now marked it as discontinued. Have you seen it come back from a non-existent state like that before? (Edit: Yes, I see that this driver now exists again. Stupid stupid way of doing it.)

What do you mean "ringing"? Does it make an audible sound?

Yes, I can hear it ringing, like a dog whistle.

The one you linked is not the same one. They drop it off the site when it's not available, I'm not sure why, but I did get an email from Bryan at Shiningbeam saying he placed another order, and the next batch might come with better memory mode similar to the L-mini II.

I noticed the one that Download sells in his Multi-Sink Thread is the same layout, but it has one less jumper, and it is user configurable, Take a look:

[TorchBoy]

Yes, I can hear it ringing, like a dog whistle.

How strange. I wonder what's causing that. The normal culprits aren't present on that board.

The one you linked is not the same one. They drop it off the site when it's not available, I'm not sure why,

Ahem:

3-Mode Regulated Circuit Board for Cree MC-E and SSC P7 (Not in Stock today, check often)
Based on the AMC7135 X 8 with 3-Mode Low-Med-High with memory

It's definitely in the list (as a 2.5 A driver), but it's not on the Shining Beam site so I've just now marked it as discontinued.

The link to my list gives only one driver, which has exactly the same URL as your link.

That mode selection is very nice.

BTW, you're not supposed to quote from personal correspondence. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/Rules.html#private

[Aircraft800]

Oops, I missed that one.

I see, the driver you were talking about was an example of one that was gone, and reappeared. Thanks for the correction post fixed.

[SmurfTacular]

Out of all of those drivers, witch one would be the cheapest to run at 2.8 amps with 6v? I want to run a p7 Maglite.

[TorchBoy]

Out of all of those drivers, witch one would be the cheapest to run at 2.8 amps with 6v? I want to run a p7 Maglite.

When you say 6 V do you actually mean 4.8 V, with 4x NiMH cells? An AMC7135 driver would probably be best.

[kosPap]

here is a pic of the 2 configurable versions of AMC7135 drivers




to access the extra mods you connect the “star” with the ground ring, thus activating another trace/program in the AMTEL Tiny13V chip

DX 6190 (Ak-47) 1050mAh 5-mode (at the left)

default: 5-mode
No 1: 5-mode (counterclockwise)
No 2: Hi-Low-Fast Beacon
No 3: Hi-Med-Lo
No 4: Hi-Lo

KD 1801 – S004659 (Ak-47 again!) 1050mAh 2-mode (at the right)

default: Hi-Lo
No 1: Hi-Lo (counterclockwise)
No 2: Hi-Low-Strobe
No 3: Hi-Med-Lo
No 4: Hi-Lo

that’s all, kostas

[TorchBoy]

That's great, kosPap. Are all hi, mid, lo modes 100%, 35%, 20%? Should they be connected with resistors (eg, at the R3 and R5 positions) on top of the board or directly with solder bridges?

[brted]

I installed the NANJG 112A driver that someone received by mistake from DX here:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/...d.php?t=258635

I got mine from KD where it is sku S009113 but productid 10243.

It is identified as 1000mA Buck/Boost. I did a review here:

http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/232

From tail measurements it seems well regulated on a li-ion. Has the stars that allow different mode configurations like the AK 47 above.

[TorchBoy]

Would the best way to list the same driver from different retailers be to put links to them all in the Driver Name column (all under the same entry) and change the Price column to Best Price or perhaps Price Range? At present I generally link to the best price and put alternatives in the Notes.

[brted]

This one actually says NANJG 112A on it as opposed to the DX 15880 which is a whole different driver (I don't know if DX has continued to ship the 112A or if that was just a one-time mistake, but it seems like a mistake). The NANJG AK47 is a different driver as well.

I think they way you are doing it is good. As long as someone reads the whole entry they will know their alternatives. Thanks for adding this one.

[TorchBoy]

Thanks for clarifying that. I've just added the NANJG 112A to the list, and mentioned its similarity to those other two drivers.

[TorchBoy]

I did a review here:

http://budgetlightforum.cz.cc/node/232

From tail measurements it seems well regulated on a li-ion.

Nice review. Are you able to do any output current measurements? Why didn't you just make a solder bridge for the star contact?

[brted]

Sorry about not being able to test current to the LED. I know that's the more important number, but I couldn't figure out a way to measure it coming off the driver board with the battery connected, etc. And I didn't want to unsolder the LED. Maybe if I can get some little alligator clips that screw on to my probes I could try it.

By "bridge" I guess you mean just glob a bunch of solder in between the pads until they are joined? I tried that first, but the solder was very good about not sticking to the green circuit board, so I installed the short piece of wire. I kind of like that approach because it is easier to take apart.

[kosPap]

[QUOTE=brted;3327190]Sorry about not being able to test current to the LED. I know that's the more important number, but I couldn't figure out a way to measure it coming off the driver board with the battery connected, etc. And I didn't want to unsolder the LED. Maybe if I can get some little alligator clips that screw on to my probes I could try it.
[QUOTE]

if you arer talking about the Nang112 driver (the buck/boost) I have made maeasurements....

with both RCR and 3xAA NimHs I got (to the LED)
Lo-0.02A
Med-0.06A
Hi-0.85A...did not care to measure output in my box....

(also I used a rather high Vf XR-E P4..soemwhere around 3.5-3.7, taht affects the high mode output for sure)

On the AMC7135 drivers I tested I did not measure output too...

[TorchBoy]

with both RCR and 3xAA NimHs I got (to the LED)
Lo-0.02A
Med-0.06A
Hi-0.85A...did not care to measure output in my box...

7% is very low for a medium mode. And you mean a light integrating box, I presume?

[TorchBoy]

I've listed the NANJG 112A as 5 modes. Thank you brted for spotting that oversight!

[kosPap]

7% is very low for a medium mode. And you mean a light integrating box, I presume?

indeed! it is strange for em too...but repeated measuremenmts with 2 style of batts do not lie...

my box is a "calibrated white showbox" LOLOLOL

EDIT I meant SHOEbox

[TorchBoy]

indeed! it is strange for em too...but repeated measuremenmts with 2 style of batts do not lie...

my box is a "calibrated white showbox" LOLOLOL

You'd certainly be LOLing if you knew what the first "box" that entered my mind was.

I wondered if the PWM frequency could be confusing your meter; I don't know. But if it's right, it could be quite handy utilised to PWM drive the Vdd pin of a large AMC7135 array. You'd have low, high, and very-stroppy-turbo-full-blast modes.

Let's see... if it was a 2.8 A AMC7135 driver, the low and medium would result in roughly 70 mA and 200 mA.

[brted]

I wondered if the PWM frequency could be confusing your meter; I don't know. But if it's right, it could be quite handy utilised to PWM drive the Vdd pin of a large AMC7135 array. You'd have low, high, and very-stroppy-turbo-full-blast modes.

I was playing around with the NANJG 112A some more and I don't think it has PWM. Or if it does, it is such a high frequency that it didn't show up in my photograph. That was a nice surprise. I added a picture of it in the review at BLF I posted earlier. Oh, what the heck, here it is on the left vs. an iTP A3 EOS which has PWM, both on low: