Best runtime, cheap(sub $20)AA single mode?

Ok, here is the challenge: Which single mode AA flashlight/L1P clone below $20 has the best runtime on alkalines. Does it even exist? I thought of the Ultrafire C3, but it seems as it has gone the same way as the similar Ultrafire 601a or whatever its name was. That is, rather good quality at first, but worse with newer batches.

Asking for a single mode puts a huge limitation on trying to find a long runtime flashlight.

Gerber Infinity Ultra, or an older CMG Infinity would give you decent runtime for less than $20 on a single AA

Here's another contribution by SelfBuilt that may be of some assistance: (link)
Tests are done on 1AA/2AA one mode lights using NiMH, so maybe cut the runtime into 33% as an incredibly rough estimate on alkaline? Looks like the Simply Cree has good runtime, but I think some people refer it as 'Simply Crap'. If you really want long runtime (up to 40 hrs) you probably have to go with a low output light like the Gerber/CMG Infinity models.

How much runtime are you looking for?

At least 2-3 hours. It could be done. A light that draws maximum 500 mA.

As mike2g said...."gerber Infinity Ultra". I love these lights, the "M" version with red LED is my favorite midnght bathroom-run light. I just ordered another one to give to my brother on his upcoming birthday,and went ahead (since i was already paying postage ) and ordered myself another,too !! They're regulated,can be used with lithiums, simple & reliable twisty,give off more than enough light for 90% of realistic light needs, and have fantastic runtimes even on old batteries that appear "dead' in other electronics.Plus, they're cheap as dirt. Here's a link to a good operation that has them as cheap as i've seen them.....

http://www.basegear.com/gerberinfinity.html

Romisen RC-G2 with the Cree or modded with a Seoul. Runs about 2 hours on one AA nimh. Only $10.

There's a large thread on this light.

IdiotsAbound said:

Romisen RC-G2 with the Cree or modded with a Seoul. Runs about 2 hours on one AA nimh. Only $10.

There's a large thread on this light.

Click to expand...

And which can be found at DealExtreme.

But only after modification; as it ships from DealExtreme, the circuit is extremely inefficient.

- Vikas

Try this one

And here's a review.

I have a black one...not the brightest light I have, but not the dimmest either. Will run for 6 hours on one alkaline, nearly 9 hours on one AA lithium! Built pretty tough, great knurling, glass lens...not bad. :shrug:

Edit: Looks like there are a few contenders on that site.

I've not actually done a runtime test, and it's not the brightest light in the drawer (maybe 25 lumens), but the Task Force 1 watt 1AA from Lowe's may meet your needs. This is the best battery drainer I have. It does not shut down, like many higher power lights, until it has dimmed to almost nothing. And, its price is $16.

Geoff

Saiga said:

As mike2g said...."gerber Infinity Ultra". I love these lights, the "M" version with red LED is my favorite midnght bathroom-run light. I just ordered another one to give to my brother on his upcoming birthday,and went ahead (since i was already paying postage ) and ordered myself another,too !! They're regulated,can be used with lithiums, simple & reliable twisty,give off more than enough light for 90% of realistic light needs, and have fantastic runtimes even on old batteries that appear "dead' in other electronics.Plus, they're cheap as dirt. Here's a link to a good operation that has them as cheap as i've seen them.....

http://www.basegear.com/gerberinfinity.html

Click to expand...

They aren't regulated. At least mine isn't.

Ok, About time I disclose my hidden agenda. The main reason for asking is that I want to modify my Romisen G2's with less current consuming circuits. I already have some that are modified with the RV7 circuit, similar to the sku 7880 but I need more runtime. I have tried locking it at single mode by bypassing the IC, but 1 hour regulated on a high capacity nimh is not enough. An alkaline battery will most likely be exhausted at half the time. The simply cree looks as a promising junk flashlight to strip from its driver.

If you are good at small soldering points(and know what you are doing). I think you can modify a driver by changing one of the resistors(R2?) to a more/less resistant one(I would guess more, but I'm only a highschooler) to lower the driver current and hence lengthen the runtime.

This circuit is also a good one(you can buy pass the modes), but the newer ones seem to have durability problems.

Edited,

Curious...
So you are trying to increase G2 run time by starving the LED (for lack of a better term) of current?

Wouldn't that also dim the light and possibly introduce color / beam pattern artifacts?

Wouldn't it make more sense to swap emitters, than swap DC-DC boards?

Gunner12 said:

If you are good at small soldering points(and know what you are doing). I think you can modify a driver by changing one of the resistors(R2?) to a more resistant one to lower the driver current and hence lengthen the runtime.

Click to expand...

Generally you want LOWER resistance on your driver's negative feedback resistor in order to reduce output. With lower sense resistor, the driver will "see" more current, therefore it will reduce output accordingly. This means you can leave the existing resistor on, and wire an additional resistor in parallel.

Wouldn't that also dim the light and possibly introduce color / beam pattern artifacts?

Click to expand...

Most LED lights only color shift noticeably at EXTREMELY small currents, like 1% output. I don't see why artifacts would be introduced, as you're not changing the shape of the emitter at all. Cutting the LEDs current from say 750mA to 350mA on the other hand, won't make any noticeable difference in tint, only intensity and runtime.

I forgot to mention that I am replacing the LED as well with an ssc seoul. The G2 is originally equipped with a rather crappy P2 cree. It has been quite some swapping of emitters, all of my flashlights that can be seouled now are. So it was such an obvious thing to do that i missed to make it clear But still, an inefficient DC/DC board does not feel good at all. Waste of energy. It is almost as unneccessary as driving a big fuelhungry SUV in urban areas where the size and engine power usually not is needed.

kramer5150 said:

Curious...
So you are trying to increase G2 run time by starving the LED (for lack of a better term) of current?

Wouldn't that also dim the light and possibly introduce color / beam pattern artifacts?

Wouldn't it make more sense to swap emitters, than swap DC-DC boards?

Click to expand...

Romisen RC-I3 has quite a long un time. Single mode. Can use 1AA or 2AA.

http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7502
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.7503

It has over 7 hour run time with 2 x AA. It uses a Cree P3 bin LED.
It's not the brightest but it's similar to single mode Ultrafire C3 P4.
It also has the bonus of becoming a small RCR123A light as well. =)

(quote) "They aren't regulated. At least mine isn't."

I pasted this directly from Gerbers FAQ list on their website......

Q: Which of your lights are regulated?
A: Infinity Ultra, Sonic, Bonfire Blaze (white L.E.D. mode), and Tracer Headlamp.