Fulton anglehead + MAGLED + Seoul, PICS

Here is a quick write-up on my "Seouled" Fulton angle head flashlight. I love the Fulton, it is tough, has nice threads for a plastic light, includes 4 filters, and even stores a spare bulb in the bottom like a mag light. The clip is tough and the angled configuration makes for a light you can use while clipped to a belt, or place on the ground while you change a tire.

One caution: there are knock-offs of the Fulton that are different in some key respects. The Chinese-made copies have a plastic reflector opposed to the Fulton's metal reflector which for my mod helps soak up heat. Definitely worth spending the extra $2 or so for a genuine Fulton. Mine cost $10.







First, I found that the two cell MAGLED module drops into the Fulton with just the tiniest amount of filing of the hole in the metal reflector. I suspect some would fit in with no filing. A blob of solder on the positive contact on the MAGLED module turns it into a drop-in for the Fulton. You could leave it at that or....

You can add a Seoul P4 emitter for $6 from Dealextreme. I mounted mine on a copper spacer (with clear nail polish to isolate the pos. slug). I think it would work ok without the spacer, but would not have the nice throwy hotspot. This roughly doubles the brightness. I estimate, based on comparison to my L1D Q5, almost 100 lumens dimming to 50 or 60 as the MAGLED throttles back from heat. For the mod, I just cut the legs off the LuxIII and soldered them on the SSD. Paying careful attention to polarity. You could leave it at that, or...

The aluminum reflector of the fulton acts as a heatsink, so I figured why not add more material. I used tightly rolled aluminum foil around the MAGLED, and then around the base of the reflector. It soaks up heat nicely, and It *seems* to dim slower and less, but I have no way to measure it. It certainly can't hurt. The foil is denser than it looks in the photo. After being on for 30 mins it is still far brighter than the stock MAGLED when first turned on. And the rolled aluminum is nice and warm. Estimate 20 hours runtime, though I also have two 2XAA D size adaptors to use 4XAA eneloops, which will provide about 5 hours runtime and lighter weight.








Total cost: $31. ($10 for light, $15 for MAGLED, $6 for SSD P4.) This is probably my favorite light. I keep a SMJLED in the spare slot in case I need a lot of runtime.

The beam, using a spacer with the P4, has a small bright spot with a huge, very usable spill and above average throw. If you remove the "hood" that holds the filters the spill is even greater. The beam has a couple of artifacts around the hotspot, but these are not noticible in use, and actually bother me less than the cree rings on my L1D Q5. Sorry, My beamshots stink. Wall shot at two feet, and outdoors at 50 ft.






Also, this mod is totally reversible.

Here was the post by Cydonia that helped me mod the MAGLED: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/166999 however, As I mentioned, I just cut the legs of the LuxIII since I have no need for it.

nice, i like it.
it's a nice "sleeper" now

Thanks, F22. I have brighter and fancier lights, but this one is a joy to use, even my wife likes it. I forgot to mention it appears to have very good water resistance with a variety of o-rings and gaskets. Also forgot to mention the switch has a momentary setting, and that the military designation is [SIZE=-1]MX-991/U. Really a fun light now that it has some oomph.
[/SIZE]

Nice mod, output looks great:thumbsup: Im wanting to do something similar with my firefighters torch. Not sure how best to go about it with lack of heatsinking because the bulb holder is plastic:sigh: The reflector housing is metal so will try and use that to some degree but I will have to decide the best way to go about with ether led and a driver or the way you've done it with the mag led. One snag is the price of mag led's here in the UK

Thanks fdor sharing your light.

Rob

I have modded many vintage lights including angle head Fulton 2D lights as well as straight 3D Fulton lights. The general process is detailed in the following thread.

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/158873

It ends up being a home made Anglelux.

Id go with something like the Anglelux but im wanting to keep it the same as the other lights we use so its not too obvious(not meant to have our own lights) So it will just look like all the others till I turn it on:thumbsup: Will try this mod fingers crossed it wont fry.

Rob

double post

Mr. Light, nice mods!

The MAGLED makes an easier beginner mod, but I may try to emulate what you have done on another project. I like using the Fulton's stock reflector.

Rob, how expensive are the MAGLED's in the UK? Depending on shipping costs maybe I could buy one for you and ship it. Do be very careful that you do not turn on the MAGLED with no load as it will die. That is the only danger. Even with no heatsinking in your light, the MAGLED would throttle back quickly and remain at over 50 lumens after the Seoul upgrade. Keep in mind the MAGLED is more difficult to fit in certain lights, but I have always been able to get one in eventually.

Sleeper lights sure are a lot of fun. I am also in the process of changing all my LUX III lights to SSC, what a great upgrade.

They are about £20 here($40) but there are some on US ebay that arent to bad I'll have a look on there and check out the prices. Thats really nice of you to offer to do that. Im definately gonna go down this road for my light as there is no other way to go because of the inside of the light.

Thanks Rob

I did this, awhile ago, its on my blog, ive been doing this for army buddies of mine, maybe ill post thier stories.

Mine however was CreeP4 modded,with my a circuit and everything rather then just drop in, but thats a good idea for a heat sink! im going to do that i think...

Crenshaw

Crenshaw, can you post a link?
The foil idea came from a CPF'er of course but I cannot find the link. You can fold the foil and use a rolling pin to really make it dense. As I said my photo does not really do it justice since it shows the uneven ends folded over. I would like to do more heavy duty heatsinking but this is working pretty well for household materials.

Rob, you mentioned your firefighter's light has a plastic bulb holder. I forgot the Fulton also has a plastic bulb-retaining piece which is totally unnecessary... even without the foil sandwich, the dropin is held in place by the positive contact. Maybe not the same thing you are talking about? his one just keeps the bulb from falling out if you tip the removed head upside-down?

Can you post more info about your light?

On another note, I like the DX 2AA to 1 D adaptors. Their battery door is a little flimsy but poses no risk of failure during operation. And they are very cheap. They work well to provide guilt-free operation with 4 eneloops. I mentioned it is much lighter, I also think it floats with the nimh. I had to bend the bottom spring a bid to make contact with the recessed negative contact on the DX adaptors.

Yeah sure Mbirds I'll take some pictures when I get a chance, the switch setup will be a bother aswell as it just pushes the nagative against a metal outer casing of the reflector. Thinking of talking out all that puting in a heatsink and an optic for ssc and the driver Crenshaw used http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4382

There is a few ways to do it but the heatsinking and the switch are the things that are bothering me. The mag led/ssc mod would solve allot of problems but worried how much output id lose? If I could use any light at work id use the Anglelux from electrolumens which is pretty much like your lights but with a reflector and 500ma micropuck.
The DX 2AA-1D are not bad appart fron the lid like you mentioned. They make the light weight less too compared to a D cells especially alkalines.


Rob

Heres some pics sorry if they are crap, lights not new its been in fires.






My first time adding pics, Its a wolf safety light.

Rob

Rob,

Thanks for the pics. Now I see what you mean about the bulb holder. A MAGLED would be the easiest way, and it will focus just like the stock bulb without a lot of tinkering. If your life depends on the light, that might be the most reliable solution as well. Not sure what the stock bulb is, but in terms of output it is likely to be leaps and bounds beyond, even without the SSC added. If I get a chance I will post the modified Fulton next to the original... there is no comparison.

Yeah its not the best for doing anything else too its withought building a heatsink and changing the switch. Now I'll just need to get a MAGLED and not screw it up The bulb thats in it sucks, I tried a smjled droppin in it and it wasnt much better.

Rob

Tonight, kids permitting, I will do a side-by side beamshot with the stock and smjled so you can see the difference.

That would be great to see cause I didnt think much of the SMJLED, its an OK light for about the house at night but not for what I need or cutting through smoke.

Rob

Ok, here are some comparisons between the Fulton MAGSeoul and stock bulb, SMJLED2, and a Fenix L1D Q5 on max for comparison. Fulton MAGSeoul on right in all shots.

vs. stock incan bulb: :green::sick2::duh2:



vs. SMJLED2




vs. SMJLED2, greater throw




vs. L1D Q5



vs. L1D Q5 greater throw (MAGLED had been running for 10 mins)




Hope this helps.

Sold!!!! Thanks for taking the pics, thats a great mod hope it turns out aswell on my light, it will be brilliant at work without having to open my tunic and get out another light.

Did this today for my mate






Mostly just did it out of boredom and parts i had left over, Its only a p2 and its running on one AA, It will be getting one of the 3v 700ma drivers and an ssc when they come, the cree is no use for these wider reflectors its too ringy and misses the reflector:thumbsdow

What did you use to cut the legs off the SSC mbirds?

Rob

Rob,

Nice work. I'm a little confused, did you mount the cree to the top of a broken PR base bulb?

I used wire cutters to take the extra long legs off the special LUXIII on the MAGLED. Used wire cutter to shorten the SSC P4 legs, and soldered on the long legs that were removed from the LUXIII. For pics of these legs see the link at the bottom of the first post. The long legs basically plug into sockets inside the MAGLED module.

I need to add some of those 3V regulators to my next DX order. I'm thinking an SSC could be easily mounted on top of a piece of metal bar the width and length of a pr bulb with grooves made for the power leads, with one of the 3V regulators stored elsewhere in the light. The solid metal bar could provide decent heatsinking I imagine, and you could add more wherever it would fit. Just wouldnt be a drop-in, but could fit most PR based lights, and a lot cheaper than a MAGLED. Hmmm. I may need to try this on a second Fulton and compare.