what thermal glue if any

what do i need if any, i am going to put a p4 in my dorcy 123, finally, i got the p4 frome someone here a while ago, i just have not done the mod yet

I used the big 50ml tube from dealextreme, works fine so far. But the tube is huge, I don't think I'll ever use it up.

jzmtl said:

I used the big 50ml tube from dealextreme, works fine so far. But the tube is huge, I don't think I'll ever use it up.

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Is this it?
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.4579

How does this work compared to Artic Aluminum? That is, if you have ever used it.

Nitroz said:

Link please.

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Here. Not hard to find.

Edit: Didn't see the 7:45 post before I posted.

This stuff secures the emitters in sku.6090 and those modules get sufficiently warm sufficiently quickly for me to be willing to buy a tube.

Yep that's the one. I don't have any first hand experience with AS so I can't tell you how it compares.

However here's something interestint regard thermal compound.

The Arctic Alumina products are a 2 part epoxy and they do perform better.
I have both, and the DX product has worked fine for me the few times I've used it so far. One nice thing is that it doesn't make it impossible to take the led back off- like the epoxy does. It's also much easier to use...no trying to mix a tiny little bit of 2 part epoxy! It I was building an expensive light that was running max power, I'd go for the epoxy.

This stuff looks like it would be better for filling ecans or potting things instead.

LukeA said:

Here. Not hard to find.

Edit: Didn't see the 7:45 post before I posted.

This stuff secures the emitters in sku.6090 and those modules get sufficiently warm sufficiently quickly for me to be willing to buy a tube.

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Thanks, no problem.

Another thought, the stuff from DX will also isolate the SSC's + base, I don't know if all the metal particles in arctic silver would cause any problems.

jzmtl said:

Another thought, the stuff from DX will also isolate the SSC's + base, I don't know if all the metal particles in arctic silver would cause any problems.

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The consensus of the threads I read earlier this week (before getting a tube of AS5 grease) was 'no'.

jzmtl said:

Another thought, the stuff from DX will also isolate the SSC's + base, I don't know if all the metal particles in arctic silver would cause any problems.

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You would use the white, artic aluminum instead, in that case.

does radio shack have anything like that, i was ready to do this mod tomorrow and i forgot about that stuff, also how much should be under the emitter

If you have a Fry's, or other computer store they might have it. I don't think Radio Shack has it. Couldn't hurt to check.

Apply some to the bottom and find a way to keep it pressed down until it sets. Check for continuity with a DMM.

Duplicate post

Wouldn't it be a lot easier to just use an emitter already mounted to a star?:shrug: No need to alter the emitter height and the beam from a SSC looks fine with a little modification to the reflector.

radio shack did not have any, just the deoxit/progold, and thermal paste. Since i am soldering the emitter, i dont really need "glue" just the thermal paste should work right?

well i got the artic silver, it should be fine,,,but i for got solder!!!

After applying the artic silver and before it has set up, check the continuity of the LED. Continuity=bad. I would check it again once the AS has set up, and before applying any power.

It's much easier to solder a mounted emitter.

LukeA said:

It's much easier to solder a mounted emitter.

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What he said.

If the Dorcy light has a luxeon star, just unsolder it, epoxy the seoul to that star, and then solder things up. That would be alot easier.

I'm assuming that the p4 is just an emitter.