Problem with new SF 6P head.

MilitaryPower

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I just got a G&P crenelated bezel for my SF 6P and with it on the light will not turn on or it will flicker and then turn off, and sometimes if I hit it, it will flicker as well. Any ideas on what is going on? Sounds like a connection issue, but how to fix? Another question. Is there any way for the black plastic round piece in front of the glass on the regular 6P head to come off and the crenelated piece from the G&P to screw in? I have a Malkoff P60 drop-in BTW. Thanks.
 

roymail

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You should be able to activate the led module with the head off by tightening the twisty (don't overdo it), stand it up on a flat surface and push down on the module using your index finger and thumb on the edges. It should light up. Do you have another P60 module to try?
 

MilitaryPower

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You should be able to activate the led module with the head off by tightening the twisty (don't overdo it), stand it up on a flat surface and push down on the module using your index finger and thumb on the edges. It should light up. Do you have another P60 module to try?
With the head off the malkoff will light up, and with the standard 6P head it will also. It just won't light properly with the G&P.
 

roymail

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Do you have to push the M60 all the way down for it to light up? The SF P60 should light up without having to be pushed all the way down, right?
 

fxstsb

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I just got a G&P crenelated bezel for my SF 6P and with it on the light will not turn on or it will flicker and then turn off, and sometimes if I hit it, it will flicker as well. Any ideas on what is going on? Sounds like a connection issue, but how to fix? Another question. Is there any way for the black plastic round piece in front of the glass on the regular 6P head to come off and the crenelated piece from the G&P to screw in? I have a Malkoff P60 drop-in BTW. Thanks.
If you use the part from Surefire, it will work. My 6P Defender works fine.
 

MilitaryPower

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Well, I think the problem is fixed. I think that the G&P was designed for the P60. Well, the P60 has two springs, so the G&P didn't need to be designed to be as tight or screw down as tightly as the SF bezel. However, since I have a Malkoff there is only one spring, and it is not as strong as the others on the P60. So, I got a rubber O-ring and fit it between the Malkoff and the lens of the G&P, forcing the fit to be tighter. No difference as far as I can tell, besides that the light comes and stays one when I want it too. I think that the extra rubber may come in handy as I use it as a weapon light as well.

Cool beans.
 

roymail

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Do you have to push the M60 all the way down for it to light up?

That is why I asked if you had to push it all the way down for it to light up because I had to do the same thing with another drop-in module. It's just a matter of it making good contact. Glad you got it working OK.
 

MilitaryPower

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Yeah, even with it screwed down all the way, it still wouldn't light properly. But with the spacer in, it works fine, although there is about a 1/8 inch gap where it can't be screwed in all the way. I would think that it would still retain the seal against water. What do you think?
 

generic808

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I had that same contact problem so I just added a 1/4" brass washer (electric conductivity) between the battery and drop-in, minus the large outer spring. Works like a charm!
 

Gene43

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If I recall correctly, G & P includes a little aluminum ring with the head. Place this on top of the dropin (M60) and then screw the bezel/head on.
 
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