Multi emitter modders please help!

Please help me fill this head!

Icarus, Led Zepp, Mac, Milky, Modamag, Wquiles...just to name a few:wave: My head is empty:tinfoil:

I don't want to make the body, or bezel ring, until I have some options to chew on.

My only requirement is for the light to be waterproof, multi emitter, and multi level. I think Cree emitters are beyond my soldering skill level right now, MCPCB mounted Cree LEDs, no problem. I have plenty of Seoul LEDs too.

The head is standard C mag footprint.




Thanks,
Scott

Nvm.

:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs:twothumbs

Wanna send that down with the bar?? nudge, nudge .

Scott, let me start by saying that is perhaps the sweetest Mag head I have ever seen!

What is the tube is going to be? Will it have a Mag side switch? If waterproof is a requirement, the Mag switch boot leaves much to be desired. If it's a custom tail switch, you'll need a bulkhead separating the cells from the converter area, which is probably near the head.

Waterproof will rule out a dimming pot, so you could go with a Shark/Remora, or one of George's boards from TaskLED. I'd probably go with a MaxFlex.
I've never built a Magmod with a tailswitch, so one of the experts will need to chime in on how that would work.

I recommend using Crees instead of Seouls, mainly for the ability to load the LED with reflector pressure and not risk damaging the dome. You can fit (4) McR19XR, or up to (7) McR17XR in the head. The latter would be a challenge to power off one board, and would require the head be bored. (5) or (6) McR17XR will fit without boring.

Using stars will add some height to the LED/reflector assembly. If the ledge inside your head is identical to a Mag head, a Cree star and McR17XR at the level of the ledge will sit a bit above the end of the head. In a standard Mag build, I try to keep the reflector just slightly (0.010") above the rim so that the bezel seats fully against the head. But since you are custom making the bezel, you can make it deeper so it still meets the head regardless of the height of the reflector.

The Shoppe is out of PXR19-D, but I have some that have been faced flat. These are left over from my Moby **** heatsinks when they were originally 2-piece construction. PM me if you need one.

With the flat PXR19 threaded into the head flush with the ledge, the height will be about right for Cree stars and McR17XRs. But you might add a disc on top of the PXR19 to make the LED mounting surface uniform. I did this in my Quinta mod, and using emitters the height worked out perfect.

The ideal number of LEDs and the cell solution are dependent. If it's 7.4V, I'd go quad McR19XR. If it's 11.1 V, a (5) X McR17XR is a nice choice.

I hope you find some useful info in all this, and it gives you a start.

Thanks Dennis, excellent info too...I'm pretty green with this stuff, I finally got past the standard LE build stage...

I think the light would be a good length with two Li-Ion C cells...A tail mounted switch shouldn't be too hard to make. Waterproof is a must! This light (or a copy) may go to my sis-in-law, for her underwater metal detecting expeditions.

I do have a few Tri FluPIC drivers...Three emitters might not be bad for a first mod?? Then I could build a removable module, and have the battery contact the driver, then the cell tube would be very simple to build. Or is it possible to use two Tri FluPIC's, with six emitters, and two 'C' Li-Ion cells?

TranquillityBase said:

Or is it possible to use two Tri FluPIC's, with six emitters, and two 'C' Li-Ion cells?

Click to expand...

Not unless you can get the 2 C cells in parallel. The Flupic Vin maxes @ 5V IIRC.

Mirage_Man said:

Not unless you can get the 2 C cells in parallel. The Flupic Vin maxes @ 5V IIRC.

Click to expand...

Hmmm...Guess I'll have to go with Maxflex, or a Shark. I don't want the cell body to be too short, and one 'C' Li-Ion would make a very short body.

TranquillityBase said:

Hmmm...Guess I'll have to go with Maxflex, or a Shark. I don't want the cell body to be too short, and one 'C' Li-Ion would make a very short body.

Click to expand...

I like the Maxflex personally.

Mirage_Man said:

I like the Maxflex personally.

Click to expand...

Can I use a McClicky with that driver?

EDIT: Maybe the click can be defeated, and then the switch would be just momentary???

A cluster of Rebel LEDs would be nice too...

I got a chance to play with Don's multi Rebel light, last year at PF09 The cluster had one red/orange Rebel in the center, and that light was very impressive. If I use Rebel LEDs, the heatsink could be very generous.

TranquillityBase said:

Can I use a McClicky with that driver?

EDIT: Maybe the click can be defeated, and then the switch would be just momentary???

Click to expand...

Impressive ti head Scott! :twothumbs

Tailcap switch and MaxFlex will not work as the switch has to be near the MaxFlex.
I'm not so sure if Li-ion cells and water are a good combination. :sick2:

In case you stay with the Li-ion's a Tri-Cree MaxFlex running on two C-cells or a Quad-Cree MaxFlex running on three C-cells would be my choice.
Making the light waterproof will be the real challenge. Especially because of the switch.

Icarus said:

Impressive ti head Scott! :twothumbs

Tailcap switch and MaxFlex will not work as the switch has to be near the MaxFlex.
I'm not so sure if Li-ion cells and water are a good combination. :sick2:

In case you stay with the Li-ion's a Tri-Cree MaxFlex running on two C-cells or a Quad-Cree MaxFlex running on three C-cells would be my choice.
Making the light waterproof will be the real challenge. Especially because of the switch.

Click to expand...

Thanks Freddy!

Right now, I'm thinking a Tri FluPIC, and a McClicky mounted in a 'C' sized tailcap housing might be the easiest build for my first multi emitter light. How would a Tri FluPIC run off 3 NiMH, or 3 Alkaline cells?

TranquillityBase said:

Thanks Freddy!

Right now, I'm thinking a Tri FluPIC, and a McClicky mounted in a 'C' sized tailcap housing might be the easiest build for my first multi emitter light. How would a Tri FluPIC run off 3 NiMH, or 3 Alkaline cells?

Click to expand...

Tri-Flupic runs fine on three or four NiMH's.
So, as for the input voltage, three Alkaline batteries won't be a problem too.

Icarus said:

Tri-Flupic runs fine on three or four NiMH's.
So, as for the input voltage, three Alkaline batteries won't be a problem too.

Click to expand...

Agreed. I think that would be a good choice for a submersible light. No sense in giving your sis-in-law a potential bomb .

I'm anxious to see how you are going to tackle the water tight issue. How far down will she be diving?

Mirage_Man said:

I'm anxious to see how you are going to tackle the water tight issue.

Click to expand...

You should consider using double or even triple o-rings at the tailcap and the head.
The rubber boot of the clicky tailswitch may be problematic.
A twisty would be much easier but then this won't work with the Flupic.

a tail clicky will be very problematic because even if you manage to seal it properly the water pressure while going under will keep the switch pressed continuiously. the safest bet would be a magnetic reed switch.

Icarus said:

You should consider using double or even triple o-rings at the tailcap and the head.
The rubber boot of the clicky tailswitch may be problematic.
A twisty would be much easier but then this won't work with the Flupic.

Click to expand...

FluPIC works great as a twisty too...

The light only needs to be waterproof to 1 meter, or less. Not a dive light.

Scott,

I'm sure I'm not alone when I say this:

:wave: john

TranquillityBase said:

FluPIC works great as a twisty too...

Click to expand...

I know, but in this case because of the multiple o-rings it may not be possible to turn the tailcap quick enough, and... both hands will be needed!

TranquillityBase, you may find this tutorial of mine interesting:

Mag 2D + 4*Seoul + 3 levels

-N