Arc LS First Run Converter Questions

darkzero

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I purchased a Frist Run Arc LS from someone years ago. I remember the seller said something about a switch that changes brightness. When I flip the switch I can't tell the difference.

Is the switch really for changing output & is the switch stock? There's a jumper connected to the Luxeon cathode. Is this supposed to be there? The inductor, is it the same spec inductor that the regular Arc LS converters use?

I tried searching for a while but could find anything.

Thanks


Img_0471.jpg
 

chimo

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If there's a switch, it sounds like the aftermerket "grey" board and not the original first run.

link

IIRC, the original first run had essentially a pair of ArcAAA circuits running in parallel.
 

tvodrd

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I have one of those which was a gift from CPF'r moses, and I think done by his brother. (It's been a few years.) Larry
 

darkzero

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If there's a switch, it sounds like the aftermerket "grey" board and not the original first run.

link

IIRC, the original first run had essentially a pair of ArcAAA circuits running in parallel.

Thanks Chimo, your posts in that thread are very informative. I believe there's something wrong with mine. Sometimes when I flip the switch it makes no difference in output. If I play with it I can get it brighter but it makes a high pitch sound when outputting bright. I reflowed all the components with no luck.

I was supecting that the inductor was bad because of the marks on it, the bezel is putting pressure on it when screwed down. My other Arc LS was dim & it had a chipped inductor, I replaced it with a Coilcraft DO1608C-332 & now it's bright again. Looking at the pics in the thread you linked, the inductor says 100 on it & the inductor for my LSH-P says 332 on it. I guess 332 stands for 3.3uH. Can I use the 3.3uH or must I use a 1.0uH inductor like the CoilCraft D01608C-102

Also you mentioned something about the cap that is at R3 that shouldn't be there. Looking at mine it looks like the cap is stacked on top of a resistor. Should I remove that cap?

Thanks.
 

chimo

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Thanks Chimo, your posts in that thread are very informative. I believe there's something wrong with mine. Sometimes when I flip the switch it makes no difference in output. If I play with it I can get it brighter but it makes a high pitch sound when outputting bright. I reflowed all the components with no luck.

I was supecting that the inductor was bad because of the marks on it, the bezel is putting pressure on it when screwed down. My other Arc LS was dim & it had a chipped inductor, I replaced it with a Coilcraft DO1608C-332 & now it's bright again. Looking at the pics in the thread you linked, the inductor says 100 on it & the inductor for my LSH-P says 332 on it. I guess 332 stands for 3.3uH. Can I use the 3.3uH or must I use a 1.0uH inductor like the CoilCraft D01608C-102

Also you mentioned something about the cap that is at R3 that shouldn't be there. Looking at mine it looks like the cap is stacked on top of a resistor. Should I remove that cap?

Thanks.


The cap on R3 is likely for circuit stability. I'm not sure on the inductor - I don't know which version is the original version the 3.3uH or 10uH.

Paul
 
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darkzero

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The cap on R3 is likely for circuit stability. I'm not sure on the inductor - I don't know which version is the original version the 3.3uF or 10uF.

Paul

Ok, I will leave the cap at R3 then. 3.3uF is what is used on this Arc LS converter:
Img_0459.jpg


I'm trying to figure out what this custom First Run converter uses. In bombelman's pic it says 100 on the inductor:
IMG_5264c.jpg


Would that more likely to be 10uF as you mentioned or 1uF?
 

chimo

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Your last pic shows a 10uH.

Ok, I will leave the cap at R3 then. 3.3uF is what is used on this Arc LS converter:
Img_0459.jpg


I'm trying to figure out what this custom First Run converter uses. In bombelman's pic it says 100 on the inductor:
IMG_5264c.jpg


Would that more likely to be 10uF as you mentioned or 1uF?

Edit: mental lapse
 
Last edited:
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