Lumapower M3 Transformer vs. LM33 v. Olight T10

I was wondering if anyone familiar with these lights (or with the M3/LM33 or M3/T10) can tell me if the M3 is significantly brighter than the LM33, both in 1 x CR123a configuration, and/or significantly less bright than the T10 (in it's pre-Q5 version)?

Confusing enough?

I'd just about decided on an Olight T10, as sort of the 'do everything' 1 x CR123a light, but thought I should ask you guys first.

The T10's good ponts seem to be a low-low w/very long runtime, high-high, (the reviews I've read say, yes, it is bright) and usefull levels in between. I can ignore strobe and SOS. Possible bad point - the UI seems pretty complex, which makes me wonder about long-term durability. I won't be doing any rough duty with it, but it seems more complicatd than necessary for my needs, and over time, something more to break.

I looked again at the M3. Good points are low-low, with good runtime (but not the 20 and 40 hours of the T10 on its lowest modes), the ability to use 1 x AA and 2 x AA (I'm a sucker for these combo lights) and (I hope) a high-high, meaning to me at least 75 lumens out the front. Also, simple reverse clicky, or forward clicky - pick one. It also seems to be pretty rugged, which is a bonus, because I'm a klutz.

I had initially thought I'd like an LM33, but the runtimes are much less than either the M3 or T10, the low isn' t that low, and it seems from what I've read the high isn't that high - meaning its nowhere near the 90 lumens Lumapower claims ( and probably not even close to 75 lumens out the front.) It seems such a nice little light though...

So....is the M3 brighter than the LM33, or are they about the same on 'high'? Is the M3 almost as bright as the older (Q2?) T10 or does the T10 blow it away?

Basically, I think I'd prefer the M3 if it is not significantly dimmer on 'high' than the Olight T10, because I like the simpler UI, and the ability to also use AAs. The low-low is there, as is good runtime. If it isn't going to give me 75 lumens or more, than I think I'd have to go with the T10, and live with the overly complicated (IMHO) UI. Now, if someone tells me the LM33 on 'high' is close to the T10, well then I'll be back to thinking about the LM33, except for those comparatively short runtimes....

Fenix Store has the T10 for $52 shipped, $47.4 shipped if you use the "CPG8" coupon. That would be cheaper then the M3.

Going by the M3 review here and the T10 review here, I'd say the T10 is the brighter one. The T10 should be at least 100 lumen out the front on high. The M3 should be around 75 lumen out the front. The LM33 should around 65 lumen out the front.

The interface of the T10 is controlled by a microprocessor, which is a solid state device. It would be hard to beak without destroying the flashlight in the process. The UI shouldn't be that hard to learn. You could probably figure it out within a minute of playing with it.

I have all three of the lights in question, although I don't have them at hand right now to directly compare brightness.
What I can tell you is that each of the beams is distinctly different and that can make a visible comparison more of a personal choice.
The M3 is definitely larger and heavier. It has a rugged feel and a traditional beam, smooth level switching and a lot of flexibility.
The UI of the T10 is very easy so I wouldn't worry about that but the beam is rather unique. Useful spill and strong throw, but very unusual in appearance.
The LM33 has the smoothest closeup beam and the widest hotspot and while the UI is simple, you always have to click twice at some point either turning on or turning off. And that's EVERYTIME you use the light.
There are also differences in performance depending on what type of battery you use in each of the three lights. I've just used primary lithiums in each of the three but if you want to use rechargeables you'll need to study some more reviews and specifications.
Can you describe how you'll use this light other than the brightness requirements you've already listed?
Of these three lights, I carry the T10, at least on days when I don't carry my NovaTac EDC 120 (with 3 preset levels and locator beacon).

Usually, the light would be used, assuming I like it enough in a subjective way, as an EDC, in a jacket pocket or fanny/belt pack. Use while walking at night, sometimes in wooded areas, would also come into play. For me, this means 95% of the time it would be carried, 5% of the time it might be used, for whatever need might arise. I have several small, single AA lights in the 30-40 lumen range, one of which I now pocket daily, and which would probably adequately serve for EDC in jeans & t-shirt weather. I could get by with one of these if I had to for EDC only. But when carrying a single, slightly larger light is possible/comfortable, I'd rather have more options in brightness.

On a more serious note, and where I think these little 1 x AA lights are inadequate, in terms of overall output and throw, I also often come home from work well after dark, and the area around my office is what I would describe as 'a bit dodgy' after the sun goes down. I'm not looking for a 'tactical' light, it would be quite out of place with a suit and in my office environment, but I want a light that's going to ride in a suitcoat pocket that will reach out down an alleyway, between a couple of unlit buildings, or under the trees in the park 15 - 25 yards off the road, and clearly illuminate anyone who's approaching.

I also have occasional need of a light in the course of my business for the inspection of what are supposedly vacant houses, and multi-unit dwellings. I can't always pick the time I'll need to do this, it may be in broad daylight, but particularly in the winter months it may be after sunset. And I don't pick the location of the buildings. The condition of the buildings is not always sound. So first I'd just like a light that will keep me from breaking my neck on a dark basement stairway. Sometimes, too, it may turn out that the 'vacant' buildings aren't. Particularly the basements of some of the buildings are awfully dark, even during daylight hours. So I want a light that's going to give me enough output to see clearly down an unlit, enlcosed 40'-50' room, or down a three story stairwell. I went through an old three-family a year ago with an LEO, and I wasn't at all pleased that my 2 AA cell light wasn't lighting up much at all of that basement once I'd gotten down there. The officer's light wasn't much better. And I thought they all carried Surefires or Stingers.... It was like being in a cave, with this black void out there in front of the little cone of light. I was not a very happy camper. And I can't always arrange to have an LEO accompany me, in which case, I want to be able to see into every corner of that room, ASAP.

So, I'm thinking a relatively small, multi-level light, w/long runtime on the lower modes, but also with a good real 'high' mode to kick on in the few instances when I'll really need it. Long runtime on the brightest mode isn't critical-an hour of regulated output, and I'd be happy. I really want to avoid the "mall-ninja" look. The light should have a low-profile look, no strike bezels, no tactical ridgy-thingies, no bumps and bulges, they tear up suits, too. Smooth, slim, and discreet.

Excellent info! As fine as the LM33 is, I think I can eliminate it from your specific list except as a great low-cost backup light, which is certainly a consideration given the locations you'll be exploring.
I also think the MIII is not best suited since it's a little on the large and heavy side without giving you really high brightness or greater than normal throw. It's very smooth and solid, but the included sheath doesn't fit your description. You'd need to seek out something slimmer to hold the light on your belt and even in CR123 configuration the light is a little long for the pocket without giving you a huge performance advantage.
I think the T10 best fits your needs of the three lights you've listed, with the following negative considerations: Mine is heavily regulated and will dim to nothing more quickly than you can downshift to a low level. Your mileage may vary, the light is supposed to give a warning flash but mine doesn't.
While switching light levels is nicer on the Olight than on some other brands, it's still something that takes practice and time to accomplish during use, especially one-handed.
I know you mentioned smooth bodied, but the Olight is at the limit for this I think. Any smoother and you'd be at too much risk for losing the light in an environment where that would be a very bad event.
On the good side, the Olight is bright enough and has enough spill and throw to often use it at level 3 and have plenty of light.
Also the strobe is very quick to access but never gets in the way and it is a good frequency and brightness to buy you a few seconds in an encounter. I wouldn't count on it for more than that, but neither of the Lumapower lights have strobe at all.
The Olight doesn't come with a sheath, but I carry mine in a Civictor V1 sheath and it's perfect.
Given the environment you've described, I would personally carry something a little heavier-duty than the T10. Either a NovaTac 120E or 120T or a Wolf Eyes Sniper with a 2-level Q2 or Q5. I don't think either of those choices would raise any eyebrows from looking too tactical, but they would be much more tactically sound in actual use.
As I mentioned earlier, you need a backup light too. Something that also uses 1xCR123. Either the LM33 or the smaller Fenix P1 CE.

Thanks for all the info, Rebel. I was thinking the T10 was probably going to suit me best, and you've pretty well confirmed that. I do agree that changing levels could be tricky, but I doubt I'd have need of doing that in any situation which might get serious. I'll just be sure to have fresh batteries, and that should cover me. I already have a Civictor, so I guess I've got the right holster already, too. Now, I just have to decide between an LM33 and the P1-CE for the backup light. (I know, CPF motto "buy both!")

I have a T10 and am considering getting a LM33. The T10 doesn't have a good beam for most needs. It gives a tight hot spot with a big contrast to the spill. I find it not very pratical for every day needs. I also have a P2D Q5 which is better with a bigger hotspot and smoother transition. But it is still a little ringy. I would like a Novatec 120 but they are just too expensive, So I am going to try an LM33 which shares the same LED.

glenda17 said:

I have a T10 and am considering getting a LM33. The T10 doesn't have a good beam for most needs. It gives a tight hot spot with a big contrast to the spill. I find it not very pratical for every day needs. I also have a P2D Q5 which is better with a bigger hotspot and smoother transition. But it is still a little ringy. I would like a Novatec 120 but they are just too expensive, So I am going to try an LM33 which shares the same LED.

Click to expand...

I've never used either, but I've read the LM33 does not have as tight a spot as many of the other lights (Fenix, Olight) and gives a more floody beam, so that might be a good choice if you don't like the T10 beam, though I guess it would have lower output than the higher levels on the T10. I want (well, I think I want) that nice tight spot and throw I think I'll get from the T10. Maybe I'll try the LM33 for the 'backup' light, and see how I like the different beam profile.

BigBluefish said:

I want (well, I think I want) that nice tight spot and throw I think I'll get from the T10. .

Click to expand...

For its size the T10 is good for this, but for a tight spot and throw you probably should be looking at bigger lights.

glenda17 said:

For its size the T10 is good for this, but for a tight spot and throw you probably should be looking at bigger lights.

Click to expand...

I have a T10. It has a great throw. It is far better than my 120P. The hotspot is narrow and well defined to be sure, but the surrounding spread, while more contrasty than the 120P, is very sharply defined without donuts or artifacts. What I like most about the T10 is the simple interface. Sure you need two hands to turn the barrel back and forth to set the level, but it is quite simple. Once you do, you can just leave the level there. When you turn the light on and off with the clicky you don't have to toggle through all the levels. It remembers your last setting with the barrel. It weighs in at only 43 gms without battery. You can carry it your shirt pocket even without a clip. It really doesn't need a sheath.
I prefer this light for my EDC over even the p120, because of its better throw and compact size. At its price, it can't be beat IMO.

Fine, so I've decided to get the Olight T10.

Not so simple, it seems.

One thing I want to be sure of. It seems there are now at least 3 versions of the T10 around. There is the pre-Q5 version, for $40 from several sources, and the Q5 version, which is $50 from several sources. For ten bucks, I don't care. The Q5, emitter, as I understand it, is noticeably brighter than the earlier bins. But the pre-Q5 version may be more than bright enough for my needs, if even close to the 135 rated lumens (hopefully 100+ out the front on 'high'). So the brightness difference between q5 and its predecessor isn't that critical.

But, what concerns me is this: according to the lightreview site, there is a new '2008' version of the q5 T10, which incorporates better regulation for rechargreable CR123a, which I won't be using. This newest version, though only lasted about 30 mins. on high, while the earlier q5 version lasted 56 minutes on high. I've never found a review of the pre-q5 T10. Half an hour is cutting it a little tight, I think. I'd be much more comfortable with an hour of runtime.

The specs say the pre q5 uses an XR-E emitter, Well, what bin? If it's a q2, I think I'd gladly take the longer runtime on high than the extra lumens w/half the runtime with the new '2008' version optimized for RCR123s which I won't use.

Is the q5 dramatically brighter in practice than the pre-q5 version? If so, well, I don't mind spending $10 for a substantial brightness increase. But, how can I tell if I'm getting an older q5 model or a '2008' q5 model. I don't want only 30 minutes on the highest setting; I'd rather take a slightly lower output for twice the runtime at the highest level.

The runtimes on all the other levels seem fine (actually, really good) to me. So maybe I'm making too much out of this, and should just order the d@*& light. I'll probably be happy with any of them. I think the fact that I'm even pondering this issue must be a symptom of my developing flashaholism.

And NO I am not going to get one of each of the versions of the T10!!!! Though am trying to decide whether to get the LM33 or the P1-CE for the 'backup.'

I think the previous version used the P4 bin. There should be a 20-30% increase in output from the P4 to Q5. Up to you to decide if this is significant enough.

As for the runtime, I think the 2008 version might be pushing the LED harder(and hence more light) so the runtime suffers. Either that or the driver is less efficient(or both).

I have the non-Q5 T10, although it was bought after the Q5 came out. I'm not sure what bin mine is, if it's a P4 they must really be pushing it and the light does get warm quickly on the highest level. It's considerably brighter than my LM33, even level 3 is a tad brighter from the Olight. So I guess it could be a Q2. When I bought mine the price difference was greater than it is now so I went with the non-Q5 based on the brightness specs being more than adequate. Plus I had just bought the T20 Q5 and the Zebralight HL50 Q5 shortly before and needed to save the $18-$20 difference between the two versions of the T10. The regular version is easily bright enough for me but now I'd probably get the Q5 for only $10 more.