Whats the best crank/dynamo light?

I'm just wondering from others experiences, what they have found to be the best all around crank/dynamo light is. I have one that I keep in the glovebox in my car, but i want something that is very durable, waterproof, and can last more than 20 minutes (I think a lot of them are rated at around 30 minutes, but it gets pretty dim in those last few, but if thats the best we can do on time, I at least want something that can take some abuse). This would be used for camping, and as an emergency situation light (I.E. - earthquakes, major power outtages & blackouts, etc.).
I found this one that I think might do the trick, but thought I might ask around first.
I'm thinking of getting the eternaLight EliteMax as well, but I still want something that won't need batteries.

Thanks!

their not extremely popular around here because like you said they are more fragile than many lights,
and once the internal/never change batteries stop holding a charge, that's it, throw it away.

but I like trying everything so a couple of years ago I got this;


it's from freeplay and I put them rubber/foam rings on to try and make it more
durable (and I had a ton around) and the light has been pretty good and like you
I keep it in the car as an emergency back-up.

good luck and let us know what you found and how it works out for you.

jrdhmmr said:

I'm thinking of getting the eternaLight EliteMax as well, but I still want something that won't need batteries.

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If you're going to go that route, it would be better just to get a 1AA CREE light and carry 3 spare batts, rather than paying $100 for outdated technology. One AA battery in my L1D CE lasted me 7 days on Kilimanjaro, that includes 6 hrs of use on the ascent. For camping, I think spare batts is the way to go, you get a much better light in a smaller package.

IMO, finding the best crank light is like finding the best cow pie in a pasture. Sure, it's the "best", but it's still a turd. For a glovebox light, you're better off with a multi-level light (low level for long term/emergency use, bright for when you need it) and lithium batteries (some in the light, plus spares). Lithium batteries don't self-drain over time like alkalines and NiMHs do, and perform perfectly fine even in sub-freezing temperatures (unlike alkalines).

I understand the appeal of having a light that doesn't require batteries for use in emergencies, but unfortunately, the technology just isn't there yet to make them worthwhile.

Also, if you're preparing for the possibility of automotive trouble, look into a headlight (a light you strap to your forehead). That way you don't have to try to do everything one handed, or hold the light in your teeth, or wish you had someone with you to hold it for you. Even around the house a headlight is very handy, but especially outside in the dark when you need to work on an engine.

I applaud your initiative to be prepared, but IMO, you'll be better prepared with the most all-around useful light you can get, and keep spare batteries beside it.

same opinion.
Get a decent quality led light, multistage if possible, that can run on lithium batts.

Such a light will run when You need it some years in the future (without any service done to it), while the crank light will fail.

I forgot the most obvious advantage of not relying on a crank light: You don't have to crank the effing thing!

I gave my sister a Garrity 3-Led crank light, I got from from Cracker barrel, to give to my niece for summer camp. It was not the brightest light at the camp but it was the ONLY working light (brought by the kids) after the first week.

Planterz said:

I forgot the most obvious advantage of not relying on a crank light: You don't have to crank the effing thing!

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But you also never have to worry about cells in a crank light.

Own a few of those.
But output very dim.

Same reply as mentiones.
Better off get a AA/AAA light.

LukeA said:

But you also never have to worry about cells in a crank light.

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I find the opposite to be true. Most cranklights use LIR2032 rechargable lithium coin cells. You over crank the light, they die. You over discharge the light, they die. If you let them sit for a while, they seem to die.

The most reliable in my experience is FreePlay since they use NiMH AA's, and by far have the best construction and components.

However, for glovebox use, I can't recommend those either. The heat in a glovebox is none too kind on any sort of battery except lithium. I HIGHLY recommend getting either an AA or CR123 powered light and keeping lithium cells stored in it.

Planterz said:

IMO, finding the best crank light is like finding the best cow pie in a pasture. Sure, it's the "best", but it's still a turd. For a glovebox light, you're better off with a multi-level light (low level for long term/emergency use, bright for when you need it) and lithium batteries (some in the light, plus spares). Lithium batteries don't self-drain over time like alkalines and NiMHs do, and perform perfectly fine even in sub-freezing temperatures (unlike alkalines).

I understand the appeal of having a light that doesn't require batteries for use in emergencies, but unfortunately, the technology just isn't there yet to make them worthwhile.

Also, if you're preparing for the possibility of automotive trouble, look into a headlight (a light you strap to your forehead). That way you don't have to try to do everything one handed, or hold the light in your teeth, or wish you had someone with you to hold it for you. Even around the house a headlight is very handy, but especially outside in the dark when you need to work on an engine.

I applaud your initiative to be prepared, but IMO, you'll be better prepared with the most all-around useful light you can get, and keep spare batteries beside it.

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Exactly :thumbsup: The major deficiency of all currently available crank lights lies in their inferior quality. They are all low cost cheap plastic etc.,
It is possible to use an expensive high quality Swiss or US made DC gear motor, that uses multiple ball bearing sets on the shafts, as a DC generator. I made a good one from a servodisc motor in this thread. I sold it and it's twin to CPF'ers. I kind of regret it... I never tapped the potential of them... coulda, shoulda, woulda put in at least a 6 cell Xenon Mag bulb I have since made a small AA battery size mini generator light, with a single Nichia CS LED and a single red 660nm LED, out of an expensive swiss made gear motor. No capacitors, no batteries... only electronic free direct drive. May post in homemade lights section.

The Nightstar is the best emergency flashlight. I would recommend the larger one (about $40 at Target) as it requires less shaking.

http://www.nightstarflashlight.com/customer/home.php

Why is it the best?

1. It uses a capacitor instead of a rechargeable battery. A rechargeable battery WILL eventually go bad, possibly within a few years. A capacitor is good for at least 30 years.

2. It is SEALED and completely waterproof. It uses a small magnet in the switch to activate a magnetically activated switch inside the flashlight. That means they can seal the flashlight completely, because the magnetic field goes right through the plastic. It also means there is no mechanical switch to corrode, and absolutely no moisture can get inside the light.

3. It uses a shake magnet instead of a crank. In emergency, a plastic crank could break. But the NightStar magnet is housed between two other magnets, so not only will it never break, but it does not slam against the ends during shaking as in cheaper shake flashlights that use a rubber insert at each end of the shake-cylinder.

4. Quality: The flashlight is built like a tank and is almost impossible to destroy or even damage. You could probably put this flashlight in a box, leave it there for 50 years, and it would still work.

Hands down the best/brightest: http://batteryjunction.com/frjosepoledf.html

I agree about the Nightstar even though I HATE shake lights and crank lights. Too much noise and work!
The benefit of a capacitor over a battery is HUGE. Batteries will eventually die. Stay away from Lithium Ion batteries in crank lights!

The Freeplay would be my choice if I was forced to carry a crank light. But as stated above, it's just the top-of the-line turd. One trick I use though which helps somewhat, is to take them apart and replace the cheap 600-900mah cell(s) with high quality ones. They seem to last a little longer. You might have to do some minor fabrication and/or soldering though.

And as long as you've got it apart, you can take the case and dip it in Pasti-dip. It's the stuff (bought at Home Depot) that you dip tool handles in to rubber coat them. Just make sure to mask off the parts you don't want to coat. Helps with shock/abrasion resistance. And best of all, you can pick any color you like.

If I was going to be away from AC power for days or even longer, I'd carry a very high quality single AA LED light such as the L1D and a small solar charger I attach to my backpack.

I have a charger that was around 15 bucks that holds a pair of AA batteries inside. I keep one in my light and 2 in the charger and rotate them daily when I am out it the woods for extended periods of time. This way, each cell gets 2 full charging days for each day of use.

Oh, and use high quality batteries, not off-brand or Malibu-type batteries intended for garden lights. Their cases don't take much abuse.

I thought I was giving too much information out when I started this thread, but maybe not lol.

Yes, I have a crank light in my glovebox, but no, thats not what I'm wanting this one for.
I also already have the NightStar, the large one, and to be honest, my experience has shown it to be a complete and total piece of useless trash. I'm sure it will be around long after I am gone, however, its output is garbage. Granted they have a Gen IV model, but I think the spec's were so completely overstated on the Gen III, that I have no trust/faith whatsoever in this light as far as being actually usable. Sure, if I need something that is a pain to use, won't hold a charge for more than 5 minutes worth of barely usable light, and you have to make sure doesn't mess anything up with its magnet inside, its a great light.

I prefer the crank light, simply because, IMO, its far easier to crank a dynamo up for a minute than to stand there shaking like I just watched a crazy Japanese cartoon and am having an epileptic seizure. Also, my glovebox dynamo, while doesn't have the output of my other high powered LED lights, is more than sufficient for most situations, and if it were more durable as well as waterproof, would make an ideal camp/survival light. I crank it about once every other month, to keep it from discharging too much.

I also keep a very nice tri-mode headlamp (up to 50 hrs) handy. I use it frequently in work.
So, I have lights that run on batteries (primaries as well as rechargeables), shakers, and dynamo's, but I'm wanting something that I can put into a survival pack and use in case of an emergency, even when my batteries are all used up and no more are available.

MattK, I'm curious as to how durable & water resistant the Freeplay Jonta is, and how it compares to the Freeplay Sherpa X-Ray. Can it take a beating inside a backpack and get rained on?

Maybe the light I'm looking for doesn't exist.

With the efficiency of modern led emitters dynamo lights kinda lost it's point. But if you have to have one nightstar is the way to go. You say it's dim, but that's kinda the point. There's a set amount of energy you can generate by shaking the light and a brighter light simply means it'll use up the energy quicker. It's meant as a emergency light, not barn burner.

I've camped and walked around in dark forest with only this light and it works just fine.

I like the Jonta because it is first and foremost a useful rechargeable LED flashlight that offers multiple recharging methods (AC, DC or crank).

I cannot speak to it's water resistance but I would assume it to be rain/splashproof. It's a bit bigger than an X-Ray but it's a lot brighter too - the LUX I and big reflector mean it outputs a much more usable amount of light. I would say construction qulaity is basically equal to an X-Ray.

The problem with the Jonta has always been price - until about 2 months ago the retail was ~$70. Now that it's $40 and change it's FAR more attractive.

I have a Freeplay KITO that generates more light than the Nightstar. Appropriate for power outages at home when you don't wish to use batteries. I have 2 large Nightstars, one at home, one in the car; and a Nightstar CS at home. Clearly the Nightstar is more appropriate for low light in a total disaster such as a flood type situation where the KITO would be problematical. Both types have their purposes in my opinion.

Lithiums are the way to go for battery lights in the car. I have single AA and single 123 lights in my car. I also have that Nightstar, useful if I need low light and don't want to use up my stash of lithium batteries.

FWIW, typical cheapo 2D plastic lights will last anywhere from 4 to 6 months in the worst Phoenix heat. So if you put 2 of these in your car and replaced the batteries every 3 months, they would work. If you do this put the lights in plastic bags just in case they leak. Of course, lithium batteries and the Nightstar make a lot more sense.

Also don't put the light in the glove compartment. Put it on the floor below the glove compartment in some kind of ballistic nylon case if possible. This will reduce the amount of light/heat to which the flashlight is exposed based on my experience.

Bob

Bob - Some good points there. I always recommend putting a lithium powered light under a seat in a zip loc baggie - that will usually be the coolest place in the car.

I still don't see how dynamo or shake lights have lost their point, and would disagree with that statement. If you do not have access to batteries, or have used up all that are available to you, then what? The guy with the dynamo or shake light is going to be the only one with a light.

I agree on keeping several types of lights in car or in pack, or wherever it is that you may need them. I prefer to have lights that use batteries, as they are brighter, and far more convenient, but I'm talking long term, with potentially no batteries being available after having been used up. And I have battery cases that I store extra batteries in.

Those were some good points on where to keep you lights in your car though. I've typically kept them in the glovebox or trunk, which on 2nd thought, isn't really the best locations. Heading out to seal them up in baggies and put them under the seat asap. Thanks for the suggestions and opinions though everyone, its good to see what different people think, and why.

I haven't ordered directly from your store Matt, but I have ordered from Amondotech previously. I expect I will be soon however. Thanks again.