Anyone fry their L0D Q4 with a 10440 li-ion yet?

jbviau

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My Q4 runs well on AW 10440s with the caveats mentioned toward the end of this thread:

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/188124

Lots of good info. in there.

I don't lose modes, but low and medium are choppy for the first minute or two until the battery's voltage comes down a bit. High is fantastic, but the head gets warm quickly. I only use high for short bursts.
 

merlocka

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I have an original P4 version (which was just replaced due to a thread issue, thanks Fenix-Store!), and a new Q4 version.

Although I typically use Eneloops, of course I have 10440's laying around.

The P4 version (both unit's I've had) exhibit no issues with 10440's, including stable mid and low mode.

The Q4 however, does show flicker (clearly visible, beyond the standard PWM) in mid and low mode with 10440.

That said, these are brief >1min runs. I'm not the sort to take a Li Ion downtown at ~5C.

Although it kinda stinks that the Q4 shows the issue, I remind myself that even with an Eneloop, the Q4 version is laughably bright for a AAA light.
 

Nulllogik

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I use a 10440 in mine. It gets HOT on high...

The PWM flicker is just as noticeable (im sensitive to it) with AAAs as it is with the 10440.

Whats the highest voltage the Q4 LOD survive? I can envision running it with 2 10180's with a tiny spacer...
 

Jarl

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It's rated 0.9 to 3.3V IIRC. 1 cell is pushing it, two will almost certainly destroy it (and the cells, which will be running at about 10C o.o)
 

UnknownVT

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Just wondering what the latest word is before I run mine on a 10440 Li-Ion.:popcorn:

The Fenix L0D-Q4 (or any other version) seems to be fine on 3.7V rechargeable Li-Ion 10440 - it gets spectacularly bright - and the lower levels work as the L0D uses PWM.

But there is a BIG caveat - it's probably best not to use it on High for long.....the light does get warm quickly.

Check out this excellent review by Selfbuilt -

Jetbeam Jet-u and Fenix L0D-CE 1AAA shootout: RUNTIMES, BEAMSHOTS, and TEMPERATURES

It's not the Q4 or RB80 version, but the plain CE (probably P4?)
go down to the runtime and temperatures sections and understand why Selfbuilt didn't do a complete runtime on 10440 on High.......

The other thing to bear in mind is the relatively short runtimes -

Chevrofreak has this -

Fenix L0D CE runtimes

although it's the plain P4(?) L0Dce -
he has done runtimes with a 10440 -
it was 10 min 23 secs to 50% on high......

More discussion and beamshots on 10440 in -

Fenix L0D-Q4 Comparison Review
 

HighLight

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Thanks for all the helpful advice. In the spirit of CPF I'm getting some 10440's
and trying it out. Gotta see it running on high for myself!
 

Nulllogik

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It's rated 0.9 to 3.3V IIRC. 1 cell is pushing it, two will almost certainly destroy it (and the cells, which will be running at about 10C o.o)
Ah, good to know. I wont try it then... :thumbsup:
 

LEDninja

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In the reports of dead L0D/10440 there always seem to be flicker. If your torch flickers I would recommend going back to regular AAA.
 

Ray Tseng

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In the reports of dead L0D/10440 there always seem to be flicker. If your torch flickers I would recommend going back to regular AAA.

Got semi-flamed from fenix owners last time I posted this type of response. But if your L0D flickers, just get a light that was designed with 10440 in mind from the beginning (points at Liteflux).

Poor 10440 performance was the reason I re-gifted my L0D. Going back to regular AAA is like halving the light output. It puzzles me why someone would worry about 5-10% difference in the latest emitters and what not, when you could get a 100% increase by changing the power source. Considering the amount you spent on a light in the first place, I think it's a no-brainer to go the extra step for 10440 and double your light output.
That being said, losing modes or having to settle for any problems on such an expensive item is just unacceptable.
I know, $50 on CPF is considered "cheap" but in the real world that's a ridiculous price for a flashlight. It's like Ferrari owners saying the 360 is a cheap car.
 
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Patriot

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Still no issues with any of my LODs and 10440s, 1 Luxeon, 2 LOD-CEs, 1 Q4. 10440s are the only thing I've ever used in them. I'm up to 7 10440s and even the oldest ones with the most cycles still work great. It has my vote for one of the best performance combos in flashlight history.
 

HighLight

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Since no one came right out and said "NO! Don't do it" You'll fry it!" then I'll cautiously try it. :whistle:
 

todo

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I run 10440's exclusively in my LOD's. My lodce has had hundreds of charges, and my current lod q4 probably 50 or more. Never had a problem. Its just a much more usefull light when high has the kind of output the 10440's give it.

Just yesterday I had my lodq4 in a front pant pocket, and felt something pretty warm. I hadn't unscrewed the head far enough and it accidentally came on, must have been on high cause it was pretty warm. Don't know how long it was on but prob a while. I normally carry the lod clipped in my shirt pocket, and has never happened before.
 

Crenshaw

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Got semi-flamed from fenix owners last time I posted this type of response. But if your L0D flickers, just get a light that was designed with 10440 in mind from the beginning (points at Liteflux).

Poor 10440 performance was the reason I re-gifted my L0D. Going back to regular AAA is like halving the light output. It puzzles me why someone would worry about 5-10% difference in the latest emitters and what not, when you could get a 100% increase by changing the power source. Considering the amount you spent on a light in the first place, I think it's a no-brainer to go the extra step for 10440 and double your light output.
That being said, losing modes or having to settle for any problems on such an expensive item is just unacceptable.
I know, $50 on CPF is considered "cheap" but in the real world that's a ridiculous price for a flashlight. It's like Ferrari owners saying the 360 is a cheap car.

FLAME!!!!..:xyxgun:

:nana:

actually i really would like to try out the Lf2x, it does look like a good light, unfortunately, i had to chose between the LOD and the LF2x for the moment, and previous experience with fenix led me to choose it.

Oh by the way, in an email to fenix store about the LOD, i mentioned trying it with 104400s to see if it would light cos it seemed dead, official response was that its not reccomended.

Crenshaw
 

LEDninja

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In the reports of dead L0D/10440 there always seem to be flicker. If your torch flickers I would recommend going back to regular AAA.
Got semi-flamed from fenix owners last time I posted this type of response. But if your L0D flickers, just get a light that was designed with 10440 in mind from the beginning (points at Liteflux).
By flicker I do not mean the PWM kind. It is more of a flash-flash-flash. One of 4 I got had that. I gifted that and another one with Eneloops. Am still using the others with RayOvac hybrids (unless I am demonstrating what a modern LED pushed to the max can do).

Elektrolumens built me a 14500 DD SSC P4 in a 1 cell minimag. I will probably be using that instead of my L0D CE/10440 combo.
Size comparison:
Fenix L0D CE, Fenix L1T, Chopped Minimak 14500, Elektrolumens Lucidus XR-1, Elektrolumens My Little Friend.
Minimaksize.jpg

Beamshots:
Minimak 14500 left, L0D CE 10440 right.
MinimakleftL0DCE10440freshcells.jpg
 

smg

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I was hesitant to try running a 10440 in the L0D for a long time. I finally broke down and bought it and a couple AW 10440 cells. My friend also bought the L0D recently, so I showed him mine :naughty: He was pretty shocked! I'm happy with it. I suspect that, if I follow the necessary guidelines for caring for a Li-ion cell, I should have no major problems. (I do not consider the LED burning up as a "major" problem - I'm talking about fires, etc.)
 

Ray Tseng

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By flicker I do not mean the PWM kind. It is more of a flash-flash-flash.

Yep. It's been discussed in various threads. On medium and low, it variates between brighter and less bright as something in the light doesn't like the 10440. Glad 3 out of your 4 are problem free.
But hopefully some people can understand my point, that for such an expensive purchase you shouldn't settle if you get unlucky and have this behavior. Therefore you really should consider going with a light that was designed (and supported) for 10440 in mind in the first place as a key buying factor.
 
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