I just bought a FENIX T1.

:thinking:
Still kind of new to the CPF but have been a flash-a-hollic since...

Just wanted to know if anyone has any advice for rechargeables for this light and where to get them for the best price I have a couple battery chargers that can charge Cr123's so I don't really need a charger just some good rechargeables that won't push 4.7+v for the first minutes of use!

I live in kind of a rural area and cr123's are hard to find that haven't been sitting on the shelf for years!

I had a palm Blaze K2 and I put some rechargeable cr123's into it and burnt it out in less than a minute use!
(alright for a cheap $25 flashlight, but not something I want to do to a $75 flashlight.)

Many here like AW's R123 3.7v's: http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?t=173892

I run two in my Fenix T1 with no problems. The T1 can handle a fair amount of voltage thanks to its buck circuit.

From the looks of those The ones I have should be alright (3.6v 800mAh)
Not sure if they are protected though!

The should be fine.

What brand are they?

Not sure they were given to me as a B-Day gift!

And they are 1000mAh I thought they were 800mAh

I've tested the T1 driver board with DC inputs to 12V
No problems on the runs I did and I was driving the LED in "maximum" (turbo) mode at the time.
See:
https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/186210
Can't see what you propose causing problems - it's one tough little beast!

https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/191727&page=2
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crenshaw
hey 47s, when will this be on fenix-store? and whats the price point?

Crenshaw

Yep, the Tk10 is real. You can be sure we'll have them
out the door first Official release date is March 25. Keep a look out
in the reviews section around that date. We're putting some into the hands
of some competent reviewers. Price point is around the T1's. It'll be
a couple bucks more due to increased material costs and the US dollar dropping

LedSanders said:

:thinking:

Just wanted to know if anyone has any advice for rechargeables for this light and where to get them for the best price I have a couple battery chargers that can charge Cr123's so I don't really need a charger just some good rechargeables that won't push 4.7+v for the first minutes of use!

I had a palm Blaze K2 and I put some rechargeable cr123's into it and burnt it out in less than a minute use!
(alright for a cheap $25 flashlight, but not something I want to do to a $75 flashlight.)

Click to expand...

I am not suer what your problem is, maybe some kind of missunderstanding:
IIRC, the T1 uses a buck circuit, and has no problem with anything below 16V or so total voltage.

Maybe that Blaze K2 was a direct drive light, but something like that shouldnt happen at all with the Fenix. Just think about it: If it can reduce 7.4V to 3.7V, why not 9.4V?

LedSanders said:

Not sure they were given to me as a B-Day gift!

And they are 1000mAh I thought they were 800mAh

Click to expand...

I'll bet you a half dozen new cells they're not a mAh more than 800.

Print is cheap. And it sells batteries.

c_c

these cells are NOT protected, so You will loose one (at least) with the very 1st use.

When the light starts to SHOW a lesser output, one (at least) is below its safe 3-2.8 Volts and most certainly under its 2.5 Volts where Li-Ios start to get damaged irreversibly.

definitely buy some AW protected RCR's. It's not worth loosing a light like the T1 to inferior cells.

Curious_character said:

I'll bet you a half dozen new cells they're not a mAh more than 800.

Print is cheap. And it sells batteries.

c_c

Click to expand...

I do have 8 of them my friend thought they would be a good gift but I can tell they are cheep.

IMSabbel said:

Maybe that Blaze K2 was a direct drive light, but something like that shouldnt happen at all with the Fenix. Just think about it: If it can reduce 7.4V to 3.7V, why not 9.4V?

Click to expand...

no it had a driver board in it I am still not sure if its the bulb or the board that is burnt up.

PalmBlaze K2

IMSabbel said:

I am not suer what your problem is, maybe some kind of missunderstanding:
IIRC, the T1 uses a buck circuit, and has no problem with anything below 16V or so total voltage.

Maybe that Blaze K2 was a direct drive light, but something like that shouldnt happen at all with the Fenix. Just think about it: If it can reduce 7.4V to 3.7V, why not 9.4V?

Click to expand...

Buck circuits do have limits. It just so happens that the T1 can (apparently) handle a good amount more than two Li-Ions in series. If you exceed the maximum input voltage for a buck circuit, you'll fry it just as sure as any other driver.

yellow said:

these cells are NOT protected, so You will loose one (at least) with the very 1st use.

Click to expand...

I have 2 sets of batteries that look just like that, I have been using them in a P3D for at least 6 months without any problems. When I lose turbo mode I charge them, and always use the same 2 together.

Never had a problem, and they give pretty good output.

TigerhawkT3 said:

Buck circuits do have limits. It just so happens that the T1 can (apparently) handle a good amount more than two Li-Ions in series. If you exceed the maximum input voltage for a buck circuit, you'll fry it just as sure as any other driver.

Click to expand...

Well, then the people of the other light were REALLY cheap on the safety margin.

OTOH, the fenix buck drivers seem to be able to cope with a lot: I remember a review of a p3d where somebody put it on a signal generator with a sawtooth signal, ramping it up to 18V, it was stable all the way up.

I always use 650mAh 16340 made by a factory in Guangdong, no brands.
About $3.

I definitly dont like the smiley in the title and dont understand why it has been chosen

yellow said:

I definitly dont like the smiley in the title and dont understand why it has been chosen

Click to expand...

It got you to come in here even though its not the one I picked I must have hit a different on by mistake!

IMSabbel said:

OTOH, the fenix buck drivers seem to be able to cope with a lot: I remember a review of a p3d where somebody put it on a signal generator with a sawtooth signal, ramping it up to 18V, it was stable all the way up.

Click to expand...

Give them a hint of reverse polarity and they go though

Sounds like some bad experience...


Well, for my part I noticed that in future i will leave my finger away from LiFePo cells.
Who cares about safe chemistry if they are so much worse in every regard than simple AA NiMh?
An AW cell lasts for a whole week in my P3D, and those cells were empty on wednesday. Checked again, and they really last only half as long.