Dereelight 3SD R2 bin WH SMO initial impressions!

I just wanted to say that this is an amazing drop-in. Fits both my 3P and my Leef body 4PD (6P) perfectly with no spring! And these lights are slightly different on the inside. The throw is amazing. The color temp is better (to my eyes) than my Wolf-Eyes Q5 AND my LF E0-4! With an operational voltage of 2.7V to 4.2V it runs well on Lithium Primaries or Li-Ion Rechargables! The construction feels SOLID and with interchangeable reflectors (WTH doesn't EVERYONE do this!?) it can be made to have a perfect beam or a beam that can light up the side of hotels in Waikiki (not that I tried or anything). Not to mention the 3 different levels controled by the drop-in! No, I'm not paid by Dereelight, I'm just one happy customer. Thanks again, Adamlau!

you should have bought the DI version.
i was lucky manage to snatch 1 on time.
The r2 emitter is really good for outdoors

nanotech17 said:

you should have bought the DI version.
i was lucky manage to snatch 1 on time.
The r2 emitter is really good for outdoors

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You say the R2 is good outdoors.. Is this because if color tint, or spill design on your light, or something else?

(Recently bought a pair of my first p60 type lights, a Solarforce L2 R2-equipped 8.4v model as a work light, and a future-mod model with two extensions with a DX 18v R2 drop-in. Will try it with four AW 123a's unless someone says not a good idea..)

There Dereelight's with the Cree R2's were WH tint, which is warmer than what most are used to.

I find my 3SD R2 has a bit more output than my DI R2.

My3KidsDad! said:

You say the R2 is good outdoors.. Is this because if color tint

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Bingo!

MY 3SD R2 was a bad yellow-green tint and off-center. I like a warm tint, but this was way overboard. As for being off-center, the emitter was actually off-center from the clear dome that covers it. So that was not Dereelight's fault, but the fault of Cree. Anyway, long story short Dereelight is going to replace the pill with a Q5. I would rather have a good R2, but he is out of stock. Glad you have a good R2.

WadeF said:

There Dereelight's with the Cree R2's were WH tint, which is warmer than what most are used to.

I find my 3SD R2 has a bit more output than my DI R2.

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i swap the emitter on my module - the DI R2 went to my 3SD Q4 and the Q4 module i replace it with DX Q5 WC 14mm with the DI driver.
My new Q5 DI installed it in my Solarforce body with SF G2 tailcap (buttery smooth twisty ) & replace the stock lens with UCL - yummy :naughty:

nanotech17 said:

i swap the emitter on my module - the DI R2 went to my 3SD Q4 and the Q4 module i replace it with DX Q5 WC 14mm with the DI driver.
My new Q5 DI installed it in my Solarforce body with SF G2 tailcap (buttery smooth twisty ) & replace the stock lens with UCL - yummy :naughty:

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Does a UCL lense really make much difference compared to the stock? i heard/read that the solarforce lense was menta be coated, but when i look at mine it looks like ordinary glass to me and the bezel on the head seems to be glued on. I'm in the middle of the process of sanding down the inside of the body tube to fit my protected 18650's to use with my 3SD Q5. its taking longer than i expected to do...i think i still got bout 0.5mm to sand down...i shoulda gotten coarser sandpaper...and i also found out that the body tube is actually 2 parts which are glued togeather on the threads but my sanding managed to loosen it!

Kraid said:

...it can be made to have a...beam that can light up the side of hotels in Waikiki...

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It does indeed have excellent throw for its size :thumbsup: .

Yapo said:

Does a UCL lense really make much difference compared to the stock [Lexan]?

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Like evening and night. The difference is there, particularly if the Lexan lens harbors existing scratches.

adamlau said:

Like evening and night. The difference is there, particularly if the Lexan lens harbors existing scratches.

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hmm...maybe i need 1 of those UCL's as well...what size do i need? and how did you get the bezel off? or wasnt your one glued on?

I had mistakenly assumed you were referring to the G2 Lexan lens. In any event, a UCL will likely still outperform your glass lens. The difference in light transmission is clearly visible when holding a SureFire Z44 coated Pyrex lens to a light source against a UCL.

Yapo said:

hmm...maybe i need 1 of those UCL's as well...what size do i need? and how did you get the bezel off? or wasnt your one glued on?

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UCL® size: 52.1mm x 1.90mm
Back in December 07 it was - Item: Surefire® Flashlight Lenses - $5.25
but now it is $6.25 excluding shipping.
About the Solarforce bezel,you just need to twist the spike section then you can gain access to the lens.
Once you install that UCL in the Solarforce head you will be surprise on how good this UCL really is

nanotech17 said:

UCL® size: 52.1mm x 1.90mm
Back in December 07 it was - Item: Surefire® Flashlight Lenses - $5.25
but now it is $6.25 excluding shipping.
About the Solarforce bezel,you just need to twist the spike section then you can gain access to the lens.
Once you install that UCL in the Solarforce head you will be surprise on how good this UCL really is

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Thx i think 52.1mm is too big but i did find the page with the surfire/popular lense sizes from flashlightlens.com
Is there any difference between the color of the AR tint? theres blue and green...
Yeah i know the lens is held on with the spiked bezel but i think mine is glued on and it feels like the spikes might start cutting if i try twisting it any harder...

in order to twist it open i use soft gummy mouse pad
yeas,i cut my finger 2 times already
why don't you order 2 blue and 2 green at least the shipping quote is more or less the same.