Can a G2 take the recoil?

Caligvla · Apr 4, 2008

I currently have a SureFire Scout Light on my Benelli M4...
I am using a B&T single picatinny rail.

I am looking to replace it with the following combination.
1.) G2 Tan (I have the desert camo, so I think it will look a bit better)
2.) Replace the incandescent with a Malkoff LED 235+ lumens
3.) Use a Tan CAA Mount in conjunction with the B&T

Do you think this setup can take the recoil, the heat and whatever else I am not thinking of??? I called SureFire and they said it's not recommended, but didn't say it wouldn't work either...

What do you guys think? I am mostly doing this for aesthetic reasons...
Have any of you tried mounting a G2 on a high recoil weapon?

Note: I was looking for the best place to post this... there doesn't seem to be a section for weapons lights... or did I miss something?

Mash · Apr 4, 2008

IMHO the recoil issues with lights arises from the first generation of weapon lights which used xenon (incan) LAMPS, rather than the durablility of the body of the light.
The recoil would cut the delicate hot filament, much in the same way if you would tap a normal househould bulb while its running, and poof its gone. If you have ever dropped a 6P while its running and the incan lamp went poof, you know hwat Im talking about.
Therefore SF started shock isolating the lamp assemblies in their weapon lights, and some "combat" flashlights. This places the lamp assembly in a spring mechanism which smooths out the shock transmisson to the lamp.
I would think if you are going to go with LED, the only factor would be the quality of the circuit board and its robustness, the LED and the body should be able to handle it.

PS just had a thought, are the little leads going to die on the led, robust? has anybody tested this?

PPS how about putting a p60 led dropin, in a shock isolated bezel? And also, anyone know if SF shock isolate the LED in their X series, and new weapon light ranges?

dano · Apr 4, 2008

Slightly related: My PD was going to mount lights on short barreled Remington 870 (12ga.) shotguns.

The lights were unreliable due to recoil, and both incan and LED's were tried (both SF).

The M4, being a longer barreled semi-auto may be a bit more forgiving, but I wouldn't say for sure if any light mounted on a scattergun would be 100% reliable.

-dan

Caligvla · Apr 4, 2008

dano said:
Slightly related: My PD was going to mount lights on short barreled Remington 870 (12ga.) shotguns.

The lights were unreliable due to recoil, and both incan and LED's were tried (both SF).

The M4, being a longer barreled semi-auto may be a bit more forgiving, but I wouldn't say for sure if any light mounted on a scattergun would be 100% reliable.

-dan

So far with over 3000 rounds magnum 3" slugs and buckshot through my Benelli M4 with my SF Scout light mounted, it works like a champ... Maybe I'll just duracoat it tan instead...

adamlau · Apr 4, 2008

Saw your post in the Benelli forums (I am a former M1 and future M4 owner). You may want to use a drop of Loctite 242 to prevent the Scout Light thumbscrew from backing out.

Caligvla · Apr 4, 2008

adamlau said:
Saw your post in the Benelli forums (I am a former M1 and future M4 owner). You may want to use a drop of Loctite 242 to prevent the Scout Light thumbscrew from backing out.

Cool... you will LOVE the M4, it's by far the best made shotgun I have owned.

I thought about using Loctite but that really wont work out because I need to take the light off the gun to clean it...

I called surefire about it, they said that should never happen and are sending me a new lock-washer and thumb nut... they said to double up on the nuts if all else fails...

Switching to a G2 Tan was more of an aesthetic issue

Gunner12 · Apr 4, 2008

The thing with the G2 and LED drop-ins is heat. The polymer isn't too good at transferring heat, so the LED might overheat when used for longer periods of time.

The setup should take the recoil without problems.

Caligvla · Apr 4, 2008

Gunner12 said:
The thing with the G2 and LED drop-ins is heat. The polymer isn't too good at transferring heat, so the LED might overheat when used for longer periods of time.

The setup should take the recoil without problems.

Should I go for a lower output LED, like the P60L?

jbosman1013 · Apr 4, 2008

I would just put in a malkoff M60LL or L, I got my LL today and all I can say is it's what the P60L should have been.

Caligvla · Apr 5, 2008

jbosman1013 said:
I would just put in a malkoff M60LL or L, I got my LL today and all I can say is it's what the P60L should have been.

what about the heat? The G2 will get from both ends, both from the gun barrel and the lamp...

Gunner12 · Apr 5, 2008

If you already have the G2, either don't use the drop-in for long periods of time (10 minutes should be the maximum recommended safe constant on runtime) or get a lower output one like the P60L(which also self dims due to heat) or the M60LL.

If you don't have the G2, then a 6P or a good P60 accepting metal light should be good.

If you want max output, either shorter on time or a metal light.

baterija · Apr 5, 2008

Caligvla said:
Should I go for a lower output LED, like the P60L?

There is such a thing as too bright inside, if you are planning to use this for home defense. Especially if you have a lot of white walls and reflective surfaces inside your home. You don't want to dazzle yourself and loose the small advantage the initial blast of light can give you. Take a look at where you expect to use the setup, and maybe try other lights you own with different outputs to see what fits best for your expected engagement ranges.

The scout is a really nice light designed for the use. A home intruder probably won't complain about color matching when it flashes on with the muzzle pointing at him. But this is CPF and we like to tinker...

If you try the G2, I would recommend lots of quality range time to test it out before trusting it. Then let us know how it went. Maybe get some nice beam and shot shots.

SenderGreen · Apr 5, 2008

Surefire used to sell DL223AC's (Corrected per Bones_708) for their dedicated shotgun forends. They were 2 DL123A cells shock isolated with a little foam washer between them, and shrink wrapped together. I still have an old one.
Anyway, Surefire used to say to use these with the dedicated shotgun forends so the batteries don't fail during the "racking" motion of the forend. I don't know if this would apply here because I think you are discussing a rail mounted weapon light configuration that has already been tested. I just wanted to throw out that shock isolating the batteries on at least some shotgun weaponlight configurations is something to consider.
I also kind of wonder what Surefire say's about shock isolating batteries now. I haven't seen these for sale for a while.

Caligvla · Apr 5, 2008

Gunner12 said:
If you already have the G2, either don't use the drop-in for long periods of time (10 minutes should be the maximum recommended safe constant on runtime) or get a lower output one like the P60L(which also self dims due to heat) or the M60LL.

If you don't have the G2, then a 6P or a good P60 accepting metal light should be good.

If you want max output, either shorter on time or a metal light.

I am currently using a SureFire Scout Light but my shotgun is desert camo, the idea behind getting the G2 tan was to blend in better with the camo.

I have a couple of P60Ls so I am set there, I didn't know they self dimmed... cool feature... thanks for the info...

In a home defense situation I need to be able to count on my light...

Caligvla · Apr 5, 2008

baterija said:
There is such a thing as too bright inside, if you are planning to use this for home defense. Especially if you have a lot of white walls and reflective surfaces inside your home. You don't want to dazzle yourself and loose the small advantage the initial blast of light can give you. Take a look at where you expect to use the setup, and maybe try other lights you own with different outputs to see what fits best for your expected engagement ranges.

The scout is a really nice light designed for the use. A home intruder probably won't complain about color matching when it flashes on with the muzzle pointing at him. But this is CPF and we like to tinker...

If you try the G2, I would recommend lots of quality range time to test it out before trusting it. Then let us know how it went. Maybe get some nice beam and shot shots.

Don't worry I just got 2000 rounds of target loads from Abel Ammo. I have a lot of clays to bust! There will be enough range time to try more than one setup...

Caligvla · Apr 5, 2008

SenderGreen said:
Surefire used to sell DL223A's (I think that's right) for their dedicated shotgun forends. They were 2 DL123A cells shock isolated with a little foam washer between them, and shrink wrapped together. I still have an old one.
Anyway, Surefire used to say to use these with the dedicated shotgun forends so the batteries don't fail during the "racking" motion of the forend. I don't know if this would apply here because I think you are discussing a rail mounted weapon light configuration that has already been tested. I just wanted to throw out that shock isolating the batteries on at least some shotgun weaponlight configurations is something to consider.
I also kind of wonder what Surefire say's about shock isolating batteries now. I haven't seen these for sale for a while.

The Benelli M4 that I am using is a Semi-Auto, no racking to do... I can empty 9 rounds in a second... SureFire does make a forend for the M4 with a cool light, however this setup involves a forward grip, Illegal in California...

bones_708 · Apr 5, 2008

SenderGreen said:
Surefire used to sell DL223A's (I think that's right) for their dedicated shotgun forends. They were 2 DL123A cells shock isolated with a little foam washer between them, and shrink wrapped together. I still have an old one.
Anyway, Surefire used to say to use these with the dedicated shotgun forends so the batteries don't fail during the "racking" motion of the forend. I don't know if this would apply here because I think you are discussing a rail mounted weapon light configuration that has already been tested. I just wanted to throw out that shock isolating the batteries on at least some shotgun weaponlight configurations is something to consider.
I also kind of wonder what Surefire say's about shock isolating batteries now. I haven't seen these for sale for a while.

DL223AC- If you don't add the "C" it's the camera battery that has the two cells side by side. The only place that I've seen these even close to reasonable is at batteryspace for $6. Some places charge $25 for 1!!!!!

adamlau · Apr 5, 2008

Scratch the aesthetics and go for the M900A.

Caligvla · Apr 5, 2008

adamlau said:
Scratch the aesthetics and go for the M900A.

As I mentioned before, illegal in California or I would buy it in a second!

Since you also live in California and plan on buying a Benelli M4 you should read over the Assault Weapons Identification Guide from the California Department of Justice.

It's hard to believe that adding a foregrip flashlight turns your gun into an assault weapon... but that is life in the PRK...

adamlau · Apr 6, 2008

Caligvla said:
... SureFire does make a forend ...however this setup involves a forward grip, llegal in California...

A forend, or vertical grip on a shotgun is not illegal in CA unless a "...folding or telescoping stock" has also been installed.

Can a G2 take the recoil?

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