Cracking open a Fenix L0P SE

I got curious so I decided to try removing the pill and unpotting a Fenix L0P SE. I recalled an ingenious method someone had used involving soldering a pipe to the outer ring and use that to apply force. I used the bottom of an old Aixiz laser module tube as the pipe.

Steps:
-remove emitter and ring pcb
-clean, applu flux and pre-tin the driver board ring
-sand the pipe end, apply flux and pre-tin with solder
-place pipe in tube and heat (I used a mini-torch) until solder melts
-apply some heat to the head and use the pipe to apply a controlled twisting motion to remove the pill
-unpot pill using your favourite method

The driver has 3 kinds of adhesive!
-Hard Epoxy over the driver chips (not removed)
-Red glue to keep the boards in allignment prior to potting (like mozza cheese)
-Encapsulating epoxy

I tested the driver - it seems to put out about 1 Watt (input voltage dependant).

The small board on top is the uC PWM board. It is not needed for operation - so if you prefer a single stage, this board can go. I may remove the uC board and put in a Cree UV LED as a mod.

wow...looks like some bubble gum literally exploded between the boards:green:

The red stuff was quite viscous when warm, but as soon as it cooled it hardened quickly.

I just finished converting the light to a single stage Cree UV by removing the uC board.

I used a copper disk to fill the cavity for the slug.



One fluoresces, the others don't.