AAARGH, HELP!!! >>My KL1 LIVES!!<<

I have an old ribbed KL1. I was stripping the optic end off to put in a SSC led when I noticed the middle section was turning, not just the lense retainer. I stopped turning!
The wires were pulled though, but no power pack was on, so I stripped it out, resoldered and carried on.
On completion I checked it, no light output.

I unsoldered the new led, no voltage at the +/-wires.
I also cant get voltage on the PCB from the battery, surely something on it is "live"??
I need the circuit board out now to resolder anything there or replace it.

How do you remove (non destructively) the PCB?

Can you recommend a 3V replacement PCB should I need it?

Are there any checks I can make or suggestions for in what to do next?

Gutted, Phil.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Can anyone throw me a bone here? Pleeeeease.....

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

I'm not at home with my notes, photos, and KL1s, but I believe you need to desolder the central contact pin from the circuit board and 2 side pins from the outer contact ring to remove the board. I think you probably just didn't get the wires soldered back right.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Yank that sucker out and get a board from from the Shoppe...You prolly destroyed some components on the board while turning the bottom half. I once managed to get one of my "dead" boards to work , but I had to do some "micro-surgery" and had a pic of an old board on hand to re-check what was missing form the dead board. Do what the pros do and replace the whole thing . You will need to figure out how to connect the negative on the board to the holder on the bottom...Good Luck

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

I'm a bit more chilled this morning. You know what it's like though, if you start out to inprove something then kill it in the process.
What would your Mum say? "If it aint broke, don't fix it!"

I have a SOB 1000 (I bought it for a never to do project) which might be a bit much for a KL1 on one cell though!

I need really just to get this baby running so I can just swap the star.
When the wire came off, I marked polarity, before removing both so I'm sure they are correct. Only thing which might help is that I have no power on the board, which might indicate a fault under it.
If I tell you I would use a SSC P4, on an input from 3 to 6V, what driver would you recomment at 4-5oo Ma?
What else would I need? I have thermal compound and the LED.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Tap tap tap....is this thing on? Hello....

:-D Surely someone can help here??

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Sorry I didn't take pictures while I had my KL1 apart. Don't quite see how you managed to kill it by pulling out the wires.. :shrug:

Tried using new wires in case the metal inside the plastic insulation was torn?

Pics?

Sverre

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Thanks. I need to know how to remove the PCB first as I can only find 2.3V at what I think is the input on the board.

The board seems dead otherwise.

Also if the board is dead, what's the best driver for 3-6V input and a good brightness/runtime ratio on a SSC P4?

How do the .55" boards mount in a larger space?

Thanks. Phil.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Phil_B said:

Thanks. I need to know how to remove the PCB first as I can only find 2.3V at what I think is the input on the board.

The board seems dead otherwise.

Also if the board is dead, what's the best driver for 3-6V input and a good brightness/runtime ratio on a SSC P4?

How do the .55" boards mount in a larger space?

Thanks. Phil.

Click to expand...

Seems strange, sorry I can't help much.

I'd post the last two question in the Sandwich shop section. Unless you want to try out DX or KD..

Don't have time to take my KL1 apart to test at the moment, sorry about that Phil.

Sverre

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Thanks Sverre.

Has anyone got any advice they can offer please?

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Didn't post #3 answer the question on how to remove the PCB??

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

I know you're being helpful but no it didn't.

There are a number of what could be contact wire points on the board, two of which are also central.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

I'll draw you a picture! Note that the red/black wires have very specific holes to go into, not onto any posts. I don't see how you could have done much damage except pulling the wires out.
Desolder the 3 pins to remove board.

Original ribbed KL1 circuit board.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

louie said:

I'll draw you a picture! Note that the red/black wires have very specific holes to go into, not onto any posts. I don't see how you could have done much damage except pulling the wires out.
Desolder the 3 pins to remove board.

Original ribbed KL1 circuit board.

Click to expand...

WOW Perfect Louie!!!
That also tells me where I made my mistake (blushes slightly).
I'll let you know if it still works after I have messed it up so bad!
You're a star Sir, endless thanks mate.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Phil,

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you!

Seriously I've every confidence you'll get there in the end.

Doug

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

wow ...great photos louie....let us know the outcome of this project,looks like its possibly salvageable:thumbsup:.Kudos for all those helpers out there.

Re: AAARGH, HELP!!! I just killed my KL1!!

Definately a case of a picture paints a thousand words. Hope to update tomorrow.
Thanks all!

KL1 lives again thanks to Louies' pic, cheers mate!
Unfortunate stupidity on my part being the major factor in its demise.
As to the build....
I turned down a MM-lite reflector, thinned the big end collar and fitted that (along with the SSC P4).
This has to be the best combination of spill and spot I've seen.
The reflector needs to be 9.3mm from front face to back where the LED sits before you thin the collar (hold the reflector reversed in a MM head in the lathe for cutting). I used abrasive paper, and care to thin the collar at the business end. The collar ended up less than .5mm, and blue, so I blacked it with a "sharpie".
Reassemble, centralise and ---I'm in love!
The spill on this short reflector is well over 90 degrees, and the bright spot is 300mm at 2m and gently fades to spill thereafter.

Thanks to all that helped make my dead rise again. Zombie KL1/Lazarus light! :-D

Great to hear that Phil:thumbsup:

I didn't get a beam I liked with the MM reflector, might be worth another shot...

I preferred the beam from an IMS 17..

Have you tried to stock optic?

Sverre

NoFair said:

Great to hear that Phil:thumbsup:

I didn't get a beam I liked with the MM reflector, might be worth another shot...

I preferred the beam from an IMS 17..

Have you tried to stock optic?

Sverre

Click to expand...

I never tried the stock optic in this one as I did a similar mod to an ARC LS and the beam spread a little more because of the change in profile on the LED. This was fine in that light, as I needed an optic to allow the GTLS to shine through from behind(another story!).
I looked around and had 3 spare MM reflectors in my bit box.
One was "stippled" with spray laquer, and 2 normal.
If you stick to the dimensions above (found by much trial and adjustment) you'll have a winner and the lense cap will still go on as standard. Looks factory made.
You have to remove the black flat "O" ring though, so I doubt it would make a good dive light!